I purchased a Coleman Powermate 3000 watt Portable Generator.
It has 2 20 AMP sockets on it. I need some advice, if you would be so
kind, as to what type of power cord and/or power cord with GFI on it
to use? I have on hand a #10 AWG 50' powercord but on it it says
for inside use only. I want something that I can use in wet weather,
to run from my generator in an unattached garage doorway into a house
window if its raining outside. What I am really looking for are
product names and model numbers of specific powercords for this type
Any recommedations appreciated.
Hopefully someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I think the only
difference between indoor and outdoor extension cords is that the outdoor
ones are UV resistant.
Since you presumably will only be doing this for a day or two every few
years, I can't see why it would matter. You might want to keep an eye on it
to make sure there is no deterioration.
Presumably your generator is not grounded; so there is little danger from
one wire to ground.
Its weird because some cords say "water resitant" but also stay DO NOT
USE WET. Yes, the generator will be grounded. The manual states to
install a 4' copper grounding rod. I am putting in a 8' one. There
is a grounding lug on the generator and you run a wire from the lug to
the grounding rod. All I want to be able to do, safely, is operate my
generator from inside my garage when its raining outside. A power
cord from the generator to the house(not to a transfer switch or
anything like that, just a power cord) if its raining outside.
I already have a #10 AWG power cord but on the label it says not
to use when Wet. So I dunno. I used to use an outdoor power cord
from my camper to a powerbox when I used to go camping. No matter if
it rained or not, never a problem. All campers did the same.
I appreciate your reply.
That cord will work fine, its waterproof. The reason i asked what you
will power is that generator i beleive doesnt have voltage stabilation
and will swing with load . For a computer or tv you may have problems
but a frige will be ok just monitor the output. You should test it at no
load and load to be used to besure its set right. Some units are sold
On Wed, 26 May 2004 06:14:40 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org (m Ransley)
Thank you sir. Its SJTW grade and like you mention I think it will
be OK too. I called some RV dealers and they said it would be OK.
I'm not sure how to test the unit at no-load and load. I will search
the net and see about it. We have had a lot of rain and some power
outages up here in Michigan the past several weeks. For the first
time in 50 years I had water in my basement! Had to buy a utility
pump and kept it on the floor drain for 4 days straight until the
water stopped coming out of it(rain water from weep tiles, not
sewage). So this is why I thought I'd better find a way if there was
no power that I could use the pump as well as my small freezer and
fridge. Last year we lost a lot of food due to that Big Outage that
hit the E/NE US and Canada.
Thanks for your valuable information. I really appreciate it.
My generac 7500 exl that came with a generac transfer panel , say to be
sure use the ground built in the gen and says it is to be grounded.
Check output with a voltmeter at load no load. you really should ck Hz
to, as 60hz is needed and many motors wont run if its off. 60 hz is
usualy at 120v. A Kill A Watt meter or a good digital VM will do this.
Dont leave the Kill A Watt plugged in on start up or shut down.
To learn more ck Hondas site they have the cleanest power out today for
small units. Generators can be real dirty messing up everything as they
were designed before Circuits , which need clean power.
You need to learn what your unit can and cant do before you need it and
are guessing. I dont know how you are going to wire it or pull power but
remember each leg of the gen makes 120 depending on how its wired you
could pull off one side only ,overloading it and burn it up. Thats
where a transfer panel is smart it takes both sides and lets you balance
your load . Learn your unit now before you need it, it has limitations
they dont tell you or people wouldnt buy them, they would buy better
ex Honda inverter or regulated. A freind, an electrician got a
cheapie 5000w and didnt ck voltage before using it, he was without
power for 4 days at 32f, so its understandable, well it wasnt factory
calibrated , put out 155v 160 v and poof went his stuff. Also ck
startup loads on everything yourself , to much load , which can be 10x
for a motor and you have big generator and apliance problems. There is
alot more to learn about them, it makes me wish i got a honda first ,
rather than a 1300.00 7500w generac EXL . Your unit has even greater
limitations, namely voltage-Hz swings, it could be 50v from no load to
full load. It may not do your job so research it now and be sure you
have one that will be right for you.
On Wed, 26 May 2004 23:31:02 -0400, email@example.com (... ...)
Thats an good guess. 120v One duplex/20 amps each side
MAX WATTS 3750
RUN WATTS 3000
FREQUENCY 60 Hertz
ENGINE 6-HP Briggs & Stratton
AUTO VOLTAGE REGULATION No
On Wed, 26 May 2004 21:04:37 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org (m Ransley)
You're absolutely correct m Ransley. I kind of bought mine on the
spur of the moment because we had flooding(basement) and power
outages here in the past week. You can't find a generator or
sump pump in stock anywhere here in MI right now.
Well I ran mine today and put a Volt Meter on it. The voltage was
swinging between 134.xx to 136.xx but usually hung around the 135
volt area. So I send Email to Coleman asking about it and they say
I need a powerline conditioner if I am going to power sensitive
equipment. All I want to power is a small freezer, refrigerator and
a sump pump if flooding occurs. Since my unit is a mere 3000 running
watt, 3750 surge I don't necessarily have to power everything at once.
My thought is to power the sump pump continually and power the freezer
for maybe 5 hours, then switch to power the refrigerator for 5 hours
then cycle between them...however, if the sump pump is not needed
then perhaps I'd run the freezer and fridge at the same time.
I bought one of those Kill A Watt meters over the net yesterday that
someone mentioned. It should be here early next week. I'll do some
testing when it arrives. As it is right now, I've just been running
the unit an hour per day to break in the engine then after 5 hours
change the oil and be ready for full usage.
Thanks again for the info!
It is debatable whether the generator is safer with or without a ground, but
since you have elected to ground it, it is essential that it not be
connected to your house wiring in any way. It is fine to plug stuff into
it, but do not backfeed or use a transfer switch. That would establish a
second ground, which could be dangerous.
Two other things:
Someone told you to get some UF cable. That is entirely unsuitable as it is
not designed to flex as an extension cord must.
Since your generator is not voltage regulated, it would be speculative to
power anything sensitive like a high efficiency furnace. Last big outage we
had here, I heard about 6 people frying their furnaces. Sump pump is fine,
fridge is probably okay; just make sure you don't overload it (remembering
that these devices can take up to 10x their running currents to star; so if
you start your sump pump while the fridge is running, it might not be
I am just following the installation procedure in the manual. I have
no intentions in a connection to the house wiring. Hopefully I'll
never have to use this generator too much but nowadays it seems the
power goes out so often anymore.
Thanks again Toller. I'm just going to use my #10 SJTW power cord and
I also purchased a short GFCI cord to plug first into the generator
out and run my power cord from it.
I appreciate you taking the time to reply sir...Regards!
On Tue, 25 May 2004 14:26:36 -0500, email@example.com (m Ransley)
Thank you for replying sir. My intentions are to run a power cord
from the generator into a window in my house. Not a transfer box or
anything like that. All I want to power would be a refridgerator,
small freezer and maybe a 1/6HP sump/utility pump. The generator
puts out 3000 running Amps so it should handle this but as I stated
earlier I want to be able to run these items if its raining outside,
Having my generator in the garage(unattached, with doors open) for
just emergency conditions. If its raining the cord will be exposed to
it. I already bought a 12/3 GFCI to plug into the generator and then
run a waterproof power cord(if I can find one..I'm getting really
mixed up about this) into a window. Thats it but its getting the
correct cord thats my problem. Sure I have a #10AWG 50' but it says
not to use WET just like all other power cords I looked at say, even
though they say they are for outdoor usage.
I have on hand a #10 AWG 50' powercord but on it it says
Consider buying a roll of outdoor underground feeder cable of the
appropriate size/length and making up your own cord. Will be a
little harder to coil/uncoil but you don't use it that often
My #10 50' is a SJTW cord so per all the responses I think it will
work. I even called several recreation vehicle dealers and they say
the DO NOT USE WHEN WET is just for the cord manufacturers protection
and he said it will work in rain.
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