Clare, Xeno.... and anyone else who has actually mounted tires at home...this is a question simply to hone my skills, based on your experience.Did you ever have a batch that just wouldn't seal after the final bead?o How did you prevent that from happening?o If it did happen, why did it happen, and, more importantly, o What TOOL do I need to get to solve this problem without helpers?As you are well aware, everyone around me burns through tires due to theartificially high steering-induced positive camber causing camber scrub onthe inside edge of the front wheels due to steep long windy hilly mountainone-lane asphalt roads:And, as you are aware, I patchplug my own tires, as needed, since they getpunctured usually about once or twice per set per lifetime of that set.I buy whatever tools I need to mount tires at home, such as this HF beadbreaker:which, I admit, sucks - particularly on the larger stiffer light trucktires, but, with a few slight modifications (such as the long board you seein this picture to "extend" the base - it works well enough such that injust a minute or two all the beads I've ever attempted have been broken:In the past, you helped me with the various little-known tricks of thetrade, such as the use of dish detergent and water to lubricate the beadAnd you helped me understand the 'drop center' where there are about adozen such tricks that are needed to more easily break and mount the sixbeads overall for each tire, before you seal it with the air pressure.One indispensable trick Clare patiently explained is the clear distinctionbetween the "yellow" dot and "red" dot for steel wheels which have long agolost their match-mounting marks:And, another bit of useful advice that the experts know is which tirevalves are best, where I'm slowly using up my supply of the rubber ones sothat I can go to the bolt on ones in the future exclusively:Over time, taking in all this advice, I've successfully mounted & balancedalmost two score tires at home, as witnessed...

An old farmer trick is to use a come along. (coffin hoist). Wrap the cable aroundthe tire and cinch it up. That should push the beads toward the rim. They do makecome alongs with straps instead of cable. I've thought about using a ratchet strap butnever actually tried it.

Clare, Xeno.... did you ever have a batch of tires that just wouldn't seal after the final bead?

Sep 04, 2019 64 Replies

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Clare Snyder 6 years ago

OK - you are talking Pyrolysis - the same process used to form "wood gas" - which again ONLY happens on an OVERHEATED tire - due to either extreme overlood or low tire pressure (same thing, actually- as a tire's load rating decreases with lower pressure) The tire must reach about 200C - or roughly 400F for pyrolysis to occur. And nitrogen fill will not prevent a pyrolysis explosion because you can never keep ALL oxygen out of the tire. It may reduce the risk, but the PRIMARY reason for nitrogen fill is pressure regulation - Nitrogen molecules are larger and less likely to migrate out of the tire - thus holding pressure better - and since loss of pressure is a MAIN cause of pyrolysis, it WILL reduce pyrolysis problems.A properly inflated and loaded tire will NEVER reach pyrolysis temperatures and one of Otraco's main jobs is monitoring tire inflation and temperature.

Yea, what a "downer"!!!

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Xeno 6 years ago

Their presence made life a lot easier for the haultruck fitters.

Indeed! LOL

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trader_4 6 years ago

You don't have to keep all oxygen out of any environment like that to make it so that it can't explode. Below a certain oxygen fuel mix, it can't explode. It's like trying to fire an engine cylinder with a fuel/air mix that is too far off.

It may reduce the risk, but the

Actually I think the primary reason for using nitrogen in most applications, eg car/SUV tires is to put $$$ into the tire installers pockets. Most places charge extra, many ridiculous amounts.

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Kevin Bottorff 6 years ago

Xeno snipped-for-privacy@optusnet.com.au> wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:

so this part is not true, truck tires usually blow from underinflation so they get hot and fail,(read tire has a leak) or the carcus has a mechanical failure. they run hot and under high load so failure is not to be considered abnormal, but low considering the amount of total miles run by trucks, and also retreads from the not so quality retreaders using poor carcuses is a factor. KB

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Arlen G. Holder 6 years ago

Luckily these are normal rims for passenger tires.

BTW, while a half dozen tools & techniques were proposed, it seems the best is the "bazooka", where here's one guy showing how he crafted one from a spare "truck" air tank.

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