Butt Joint on 6" trim @ 90 degrees

[ArghArgh]

New house removed some ugly built-ins and there is a gap where the trim ends. Straight run on brand new trim. I REALLY don't want to remove the existing trim that meets on outer corners for fear of screwing them up as well.

What would be the best way to butt join a piece of trim on a straight run without removing the existing trim. I know I could just slap some glue on each end and nail it up, but then I'd be waiting on the crack to open up when things got colder.

How about corrugated nails? Any other technique to solve this?

Thanks.

[dpb]

Don't even think about the corrugated nail thing...all you'll do is split it or worse...

If don't have one, get a Harbor Freight multitool and use it to make 45 on the existing piece (best to be long end out; hides the gap better to slide new piece behind).

Then miter the new end and glue and nail as usual...finish with a little painters caulk and paint.

[ArghArgh]

Help me out with this "multitool" is it like a dremel or something?

[ArghArgh]

Thanks. Not quite sure how I'll manage to cut a decent 45 degrees and also not make contact with polished cement floor though :-|

[ArghArgh]

Ahh...maybe cut a scrape piece at 45 degrees and connect and use it as a guide?

[Scott Lurndal]

Slide a piece of galvanized flashing between the floor and the trim at the cut point.

Or you can open the bottom and top of a soup can, cut down once side, flatten it, and use it inplace of a scrap of flashing.

[dpb]

Yes...although that's the point of putting the angle to the rear, you can hide a lot behind that front face if you just get a clean/straight cut at the front.

But, as others have already noted, it's possible to do really clean work with these in very cramped circumstances...needless to say, if you've not used one before (as one gathers haven't :) ), practice on some scrap pieces first to get the hang of using it.

As another noted on a cabinet end, I cut off window sill which had rotted out cleanly and straight enough to glue new piece in place at the lip where the window meets the sill. It's difficult to tell where the glue line actually is.

I can't see your actual location, but if the piece of base is fairly long before the corner, I'd probably try to pull the end few feet loose so can have some room behind the piece for a little more access---if you can do that, you could undoubtedly also get a little clearance above the floor to help there as well.

Post a picture on a hosting site and folks may have further specific suggestions.

But, it's a doable repair...

[micky]

Floor? How did the floor get involved? Is this a baseboard?

If it's brand new trim, how hard is it to remove a piece?

[dpb]

BTW, if push comes to shove, it'll be no big deal to just cut a good square butt joint end...use a high-tack yellow glue preferably as it'll grab quicker and make the piece just a little long so have some pressure when fit two ends together (this will also work _much_ better if you do get some freedom at the end as mentioned above).

Nail and clean up the glue squeeze out before dries hard...a little painters caulk will deal with any minor places and be flexible enough to not telegraph the joint.

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