Bifold Door Pivot Issue

[James Harvey]

Hi All,

The bottom door pivot is angled outwards to get the front of the door close to the trim at the bottom of the door when it's closed. Otherwise there will be a large gap between the front of the door and the trim at the bottom.

It works fine as is, but it's quite visible and ugly. I can't straighten it and move closer to the outside or I'll have to screw into the edge of the drywall with the outer mounting hole. I can't use the floor mounting hole because there is porcelain tile beneath it.

What can I do about this? Any help appreciated.

Photo here:

[gonjah]

You can't drill through the tile?

[WW]

Hi All,

The bottom door pivot is angled outwards to get the front of the door close to the trim at the bottom of the door when it's closed. Otherwise there will be a large gap between the front of the door and the trim at the bottom.

It works fine as is, but it's quite visible and ugly. I can't straighten it and move closer to the outside or I'll have to screw into the edge of the drywall with the outer mounting hole. I can't use the floor mounting hole because there is porcelain tile beneath it.

What can I do about this? Any help appreciated.

Photo here:

I would use a nylon screw plug in the drywall and JB Weld epoxy under the bracket to the tile. Let epoxy set over night before hanging the door. WW

[dadiOH]

The top and bottom pivot holes should be the aligned with the center of the track. The center of the track should be the same distance from the trim along its entire length.

Your bracket is angled because it is improperly installed; either the back screw is loose or there is something under the bracket pushing it out (looks like there is). It maybe that it is resting on drywall and part of the drywall has failed. Remove the bracket and either pack out where it is to go or remove more...your goal is to have it sit flush and perpendicular to the wall and to screw firmly to it. Use longer screws if needed to get into solid wood.

It isn't hard to drill a hole in tile for the end screw but if the bracket is tightly screwed to the wall you probaly won't need the end screw. Better with, can work without.

[Harry K]

??? That looks like a very cobbled up installation. Here is how one should look. I insstalled this back in mid 80s on a closet door, the wall framing is on studs installed flet so thickness of wall is only about 2 1/2. Makdes a neat finish.

The door should be set back far enough to apply trim work that covers all the gaps (except at the bottom).

Harry K

[James Harvey]

On Mon, 12 Nov 2012 20:44:20 -0600, Oren wrote (in article ):

The bracket was bent on purpose by remodelers (house flip) to get the door close to the outer trim. I could put in a straight bracket nut the outer hole would have to be so close to the casing I would screw into the edge of the drywall the trim is mounted to. Don't really want to drill into the tile unless I have to.

Maybe some trim inside the casing so I have to set the doors further back might work.

[James Harvey]

On Mon, 12 Nov 2012 20:51:45 -0600, gonjah wrote (in article ):

I could I suppose but trying to avoid it.

[James Harvey]

On Mon, 12 Nov 2012 21:16:05 -0600, WW wrote (in article ):

That's a good idea. Thanks!

[James Harvey]

On Mon, 12 Nov 2012 21:45:23 -0600, Oren wrote (in article ):

Well I won't epoxy it then as suggested.. The outer screw mounting hole is too close to the casing to get into the plate - will only get into the edge of the drywall.

[James Harvey]

On Tue, 13 Nov 2012 10:52:25 -0600, Harry K wrote (in article ):

Looks like I need some kind of trim behind the casing to set the doors further back and thus the bracket/channel. I now suspect the remodelers (house flippers) removed the inside trimwork on all the bifold doors and just did what they thought was good enough to sell the house.

I guess I will go install some trim to correct this issue.

Your doors look really nice!