Best washing machines for reliability & DIY repairs?

You want cheap and reliable, doesnt work that way, reliable is commercial grade. I had one for 35 years, my new cheap had problems in 6 months.

My experience with repairing things is that Whirlpool is reasonably priced, and that GE is "Generally Expensive".

My personal machine is a Whirlpool, which the last owners left behind. It has needed the motor oiled twice, and the timer cleaned out and reoiled, once.

Not sure that 11 years later, they are the same quality, but i'd buy anothr whirlpool.

I believe this is a no answer question, in as much there can be good and bad in the best of brands. Personally I had a MayTag which ran for

Roper is the most reliable brand, most likely because their washers are mechanically simple.

That would be my recommendation, the timers notwithstanding.

Not quite. Business exist to make money, so they will put out the cheapest product they can and still make money. Now, some companies make quality products because they want to charge more or they have a reputation.

Quality is mostly a competition driven. We didn't have reliable American cars until the Japanese forced us to.

Mike

Except for some between - and including - the Model T and the Jeep.

Yes... and that's why I've invested in 2 Kenmores, with no regrets. :) My first one lasted 27 yrs., with 2 minor repairs. Present one, I've had for 3 yrs., no problems to date. Got my fingers crossed for continued good luck.

I guess I should add though, I don't buy their cheapest models, I buy the mid-range priced models in hopes of better durability. bj

The Model T is hardly a good example since it was the first car produced on an assembly line. Which, by the way, was done to cut costs. All other cars were "hand-crafted". And, it was one of the very first cars. And it was hugely mass produced. And...How many miles where they being driven and how fast?

As for the Jeep are you talking about the WWII, government contract Jeep?

I'm not saying all American cars were junk until the Japanese came alone, but quite nearly so. And we're much better off for it.

Mike

Try looking at what consumer reports says. They do the testing and are non-profit.

I'd urge you to go to your local public library and take a look at February '05 Consumer Reports. Perhaps the library has an account at consumerreports.org where you can look up even more recent ratings.

I know that Kenmore furnaces are made by Heil / Tempstar. so, washers by whirlpool sounds right.

The problem with Kenmore stuff, they require a lot of parts to be "off spec" so that you have to use Sears parts. A Tecumseh flywheel won't work on a Sears mower. That kind of thing.

How's Ginger doing?

It may be made by Whirlpool, but it could be Frigidaire and lesser quality

"I'd urge you to go to your local public library and take a look at February '05 Consumer Reports. "

(Sears/Whirlpool Washers)

There are different levels of Sears/Whirlpool Washers. Ask a Service Tech for advice on which one is most reliable. We have used the heck out of them, still using the third one in 40 years thru 4 children, last ones twins.

As for Consumer Reports, I wouldn't put a whole lot of faith in their recommendations, from years of experience, everything I owned was junk according to them but we had very good service such as TVs, cars, washers, dryers, Lawn Mowers, on and on.

Walt Conner

According to CU, Roper makes the least troublesome washer. As I opined earlier, that's because they have the most basic designs.

I think it is pretty clear from those Public Service Announcements that Maytag repairman have very little work to do. The just sit around the office most of the time. The machines must be reliable.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.

No. They're sitting around the office because they don't know how to fix them. ===

I've had a basic no frills GE washer and Roper dryer for three years. No problems, no complaints. The more fancy stuff you put on them, the more there is to go wrong, no matter which brand you choose.

Bob

True in theory, but practially, difficult to do in the real world. Unfortunately, those fancy frills tend to get bundled with higher quality parts that do matter. Things like a stainless steel tub instead of a plastic one, motors rated for greater loads, etc. Also unfortunate, because unless you tear down models to compare or know one of the GE manufacturing engineers, its difficult to find out which things do matter.

My rule of thumb is to go for the mid or mid-upper-range unit. Avoid the budget line as those are built to an extreme price point and pennies are shaved everywhere. Avoid the top end, because its a marketing truism that those are aimed at people who believe that spending more gets you a "better" unit and money isn't as important to them.

Am running into a related situation with hot water heaters. There are 3 generally available grades of water heaters these days - 6 year warranty, 9 year warranty and 12 year warranty. With the exception of paint trim color, all three have the same tank, burner (BTU rating), T&P valve, & thermostat. I.e., all the operating parts. The only difference between them is about $50 difference in price.

Unfortunately, I want a tank with 2" of insulation around it instead of one. R16 instead of R8 - it goes in an unheated garage. Guess what? Only available on the $100 more expensive model with the 12 year warranty.

Or, I could do what I did with the previous heater - buy a tacky looking insulation jacket for $5. Oh well, it is in the garage after all.

Hey Clark If its a money saving water heater you want go with one of thos tankless jobs. I bought mine and installed it during construction of my new home and its the bomb. Takes up no space. runs only when you need it and only uses a fraction of the gas my old tank style heater used. It was well worth the triple cost over the standard heater. If you buy off a site like EBay you can get it much cheeper than a retail store.Just my opion. Steve