Our daughter has this little doll wheel chair that the leg broke off
of. The leg has a wheel and it is a pretty big piece that broke off
but it fits very tightly when I put it together where it broke off and
there are actually 2 pieces that broke off and join together and I
think it would glue together nicely because the pieces are at right
angles and I would be gluing two pieces together, not one.
The pieces are round and about 1/4 inch in diameter. They just
snapped off but they fit together perfectly when I put it together.
Just needs a good glue to hold it in place. I guess I would have to
sit there and hold it in place for a while, or figure out a way to use
a rubber band or something to hold it together while the glue dried.
It's an expensive little accessory which is why I'm not just going out
and buying a new one.
I was reading on this page:
And it mentions 5 different types of glues for gluing plastic
Tensol Cement, Contact adhesive, Epoxy, Super Glue, or A glue gun.
I've never had much luck using Super Glue so I would lean towards one
of the other glues. I think a glue gun might be the same as epoxy,
but now really sure about that.
Contact adhesive seems like a good choice based on what I read but I
have no experience using it.
I would appreciate any suggestions for the best glue for my job.
Thanks in advance,
I would try the superglue, maybe a gel type if you have trouble using
the regular runny stuff. A glue gun might work, but the glue around
the joints would be very obviious, Contact adhesive is generally IME
great for paper and cloth, but not for plastics.
On Fri, 2 Sep 2011 18:30:36 -0700 (PDT), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
First, let me say that the advice I am about to give is worth every
penny you are paying for it.
Hot glue is definitely NOT the same as epoxy.
The type of glue you need is dependant on what type of plastic you are
trying to repair. One glue that works great with, for example,
styrene, may work only marginally with PVC. Therefore, without
knowing what type of plastic the item is made of we would have no idea
what glue would be the best for the application.
I have NEVER had any joy gluing plastic that was structural in
application. If the glue joint (properly cured) didn't break first time
stress was put on it, it broke right next to it for the same reasons it
broke in the first place. IMHO, the joint needs a splint, like by
heating up a skinny nail and shoving it through both pieces, or finding
some other way to reinforce it. The break point sounds like a stress
point. OP, can you post pictures someplace with a link back here? If we
can see it, we can make better suggestions.
don't forget construction adhesive,like Liquid Nails.
it bonds to some plastics.
contact adhesive probably would make the best bond,generally speaking.
3M makes this brown rubber adhesive in a tube,it bonds well to a lot of
plastics,but I can't recall specifically which one it is.
I would drill a small hole in each part that a small nail (cut off the head)
would fit into both parts for added strength and then use JB Weld epoxy. 24
hour cure stuff NOT the 5 minute type. I have had good luck doing it this
way on plastic. Be sure to clean the parts first with alcohol. WW
Depends on the type of plastic. If it is styrene based, any solvent/ketone
glue or just plain acetone will work. If it is polyethylene based, toss it
out as no glue will hold on it. You can also try heat welding it together.
Get both pieces hot enough on the mating surfaces to just start melting,
then press the two pieces together.
Poorly written. Unless you know the material, it is just BS. There are
thousands of plastic compounds. Some glue easily, others won't glue together
On 9/2/2011 8:30 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Steve, I would look for a piece of tubing or pipe that made a good
outside diameter fit. It can be plastic or metal. Perhaps a section of
ball point pen barrel. No glues will work on such a small contact
surface and there are far too many types of plastic to expect anyone
here to outguess what it is. Many toys use some type of thermal
plastic, none of which lend themselves to glues.
I would go with the external splint and epoxy to make a good fit.
The best glue depends on what plastic you're gluing.
Plastics that are easy to glue are styrene (recycling triangle says
"PS"), ABS, and PVC, and CPVC, and they're best bonded with a solvent,
like lacquer thinner, brush-on liquid glue from a hobby shop,
carburetor/throttle body cleaning spray, or acetone. CPVC may need
CPVC plumbing pipe cement, and it will also work on PVC. Full
strength doesn't develop until about 48 hours, as I learned when I
tried to glue a truck tailgate handle 3 times. Polycarbonate can also
be glued with solvent, but if you get it wrong you have to remove the
affected surfaces and start all over. Don't use super glue on these
plastics because solvent gives a much better bond.
Hard polyester can be glued fairly well with epoxy (the slow-cure type
usually works better) and maybe super glue.
Plastics that can't be glued well at all include polypropylene (PP),
polyethylene (PE or HDPE), nylon, delrin, and acetal (lots of plumbing
parts), and even polycarbonate, but they can be melted back together
with a soldering iron or wood burning iron. The latter is better than
a soldering iron if it has a nonstick tip (Teflon coated). Cut a
scrap from the same plastic you're trying to fix so it will serve as
filler, like welding rod does.
For something structural like a leg attached to a wheel, maybe you
should insert a wooden dowel coated with epoxy (for a mechanical
repair, rather than a glue bond) before joining the broken plastic
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.