Best glue for sink faucet cap

We have a bunch of sink faucets with what I think are porcelain caps. The caps cover a hole. A couple of them have popped off. Here's a photo.

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I'd like to glue the cap back on, but don't know what glue to use.

It looks like they used some type of contact cement originally. I chipped a little off and laid a chip sideways on the top at about

10:00. The chip is slightly amber in color and a little flexible.

I don't think silicone sealant will be stroing enough, but am afraid to use something like epoxy, because it looks like a plumber might need to pop them off for repair work.

Can someone tell me what the right glue is?

Reply to
Heather Mills
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Not exactly the same, but similar situation. I used a dab of Gorilla glue figuring I can break it off if/when necessary. I agree, I would not use epoxy.

Reply to
Frank

Did anyone else have this problem. I've had it before, too.

I have XP Home SP3. and the latest versions of Firefox and Javascript.

This url gave me a Script wont' stop message or WTTE, I clicked Yes, stop the script, but now Flash has crashed. Now it says to reload the page and that did restart Flash and the rest of the page, but I'd like to avoid this in the future. Any suggestions.

I didnt' see that and I'm scared to go back.

Absolutely. I would try Ambroid Cement. It sticks to almost anything -- not sure about glass but I'm sure after all these years, even the procelain isn't as smooth as glass, if it ever was -- dries pretty quickly (although maybe slower if the only air is what is under the cap, not sure) and can be broken off if necessary.

It's normally only sold at hobby or maybe craft stores, for assembling model ships and airplanes I guess. It's 3 dollars iirc for a little tube, not cheap imo but it's worth it. I originally bought a larger tube but havent' seen that for sale. I kept the first tube 20 years, putting the cap back on promptly of course, and it didn't dry out in all that time. So I'd buy the big tube if they have it.

Reply to
mm

Frank wrote in news:iijg77$vee$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:

contact cement;a small dab,not to cover the whole contact surface. you can buy small bottles of contact cement,or big cans.

Reply to
Jim Yanik

After rummaging around in the garage, I found 4 tubes/bottles of various adhesives.

  1. GE Premium Silicone Glue. I think I bought this 4-5 years ago to fill some cracks around a window air conditioner. My only concern about this is whether it is strong enough. It should be OK. The little cap won't get much stress.
  2. Gorilla Glue. I found an unopened bottle. I think it's about 2-3 years old. My concern about this is that it's too strong. A plumber might have to break the cap if it ever needs to be removed.
  3. DAP Weldwood Contact Cement. I found a small bottle that is about
80% empty. I had to pry the lid off. The glue inside is very thick (like peanut butter). It's probably at least 6-8 years old. Is it still good? I can go get anothger bottle if this is the right glue.
  1. Amazing Goop Plumbing.

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I didn't know I had this tube. The tube is opened, but almost full. It's got to be several years old as I don't remember buying it. The glue looks a little like silicone sealer, but clearer (not milky). It smells like the glue that I remember from putting together model airplanes as a kid. The carton says it's permament, so I'm thinking it's too strong for this repair.

Any comments? I'm inclined to use the silicone sealer.

Reply to
Heather Mills

I know GE silicone sealant. This may be the same thing or similar. Is it like toothpaste but with more body, like jelly but stickier? If so, if it smells like ammonia, or maybe I mean vinegar, it's no good anymore and will never "dry", turn into the glued state.

Is this a polyurethane glue? I asked about a non-gorilla polyurethane glue here 3 weeks ago, and later found a bottle I'd already bought, two product names ago (the name I originally wanted), over 3 years iirc, and it had hardened without ever being opened. See if you can squeeze the bottle.

Not a good sign. Can you actually scoop some out like peanut butter, or doesn't it hold on and pull the scooped part back into the bottle.

I don't know this one but if it has exceptional strength and bonds forever, you don't want it for this job.

Number one, that you called Glue at the top? Yes, that sounds like the best of what you have, if it doesn't smell like ammonia. If it does, it will look pretty much the same coming out of the tube, but will always be jelly.

Don't hesitate to buy new glues so as to have the right glue for the job. Remember that every time you glue something you're saving money. Think what a plumber would charge to glue this on. I'll admit that I was busy with work and depresssion for a couple years and didn't get around to gluing the things that broke, so some glues dried up in the meantime, as well as some caulks, and I too don't like to buy or open a new one just to do one little thing

Reply to
mm

P.S. I love your movies.

Reply to
mm

It's like any silicone sealant I have ever used, which is 2-3. It's thicker than toothpaste and smells like silicone sealant. I've used it in the past to patch and fill cracks.

I guess so. Here's the MSDS:

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The bottle is squeezable and I can see the glue inside, which is still flowing fairly smoothly.

I can scoop out a little with the little brush. It is just barely elastic, not like fresh contact cement. I'll just toss it.

That was my sense, too.

I just reglued the cap using the silicone sealer. It says is dreied in

3 hours. If it doesn't set up, I can clean it out and try again.

Thanks

Reply to
Heather Mills

You've seen my home movies?

Reply to
Heather Mills

The cap seems to be solidly in place using the silicone sealer. Thanks.

Reply to
Heather Mills

Wrong person. I mean I like your husband's music.

Reply to
mm

Are you a Peeping Tom? The only music he makes is in the shower.

Reply to
Heather Mills

Only by web device.

I know.

Reply to
mm

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