On Mon, 23 May 2016 16:28:06 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:
Anyway, after telling the Circuit Board Medics to just send me
everything back, they decided to change their pricing back to what
they had originally told me.
They tried to talk me into a 40 dollar shipping but I refused,
since I was not happy with them changing their prices on me.
To be fair, they think they didn't change their price. I did.
They originally told me that it's OK if the board is burnt, as
long as it didn't have 'water damage'. I offered to send them
a picture beforehand, but they said they didn't need that.
Then, when they got the board, they tried to tell me they
couldn't use the core board, and at that point, they wanted
to charge me an additional hundred dollars. That would have
made the rebuilt replacement MORE expensive than a new board
(which is $191 at the local appliance shop).
I told them to send me everything back, and then they called
me up and changed their story back to what it originally was.
We'll see how this turns out, but, I can't really recommend
them at this point. In hindsight, the right answer would have
been to just pick up a NEW board for about $200 locally instead
of their rebuild for $165 + $20 shipping.
The latest update is that the Circuit Board Medics tried to screw me
(IMHO) so I told them to send me back everything.
Two days later they call me up (to their credit, they called both
days but I didn't bother to pick up the phone), and changed their tune.
So, at the moment, they're gonna send me back my original CCU and a
rebuilt MCU for $165 (plus my original $$20 or so to ship it to them).
In the end, it was a waste of time and money to go to the Circuit Board
Medics because for $191 + about 10% tax I could have gotten a brand
new MCU board locally in 1 day.
But anyway, I'll let you know what happens when the board arrives and
I put it in the washing machine. (The women folk are on my case.)
On Thu, 26 May 2016 16:02:12 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:
I put the board in the washing machine, and it worked.
Here is the summary for the next person.
1. A power outage can fry your washing machine.
2. If you get a Whirlpool F28 communications error (same as Kenmore F11
I'm told), then 99% of the time is is a fried Motor Control Board (I'm
3. Remove the back plate of the washing machine & the lower brace to
expose the motor control board
4. Remove the upper cover of the washing machine to expose the main
5. Look around. Blue wires are critical. So check the blue wires from the
CCU to the MCU. Otherwise, remove the motor control board and check for
If you see evidence of damage on the motor control board, just go buy a
new one for around $200 at a local appliance store. (Whirlpool factory
prices area about $320 and Ebay is as low as $50 but you have to be
confident of the supplier).
The good news is that the rebuilt Whirlpool motor control board from
circuit board medics worked fine.
So all that matters now is the lesson learned for others.
Total cost was $165 + about $20 (I forget exactly how much shipping was)
and the turnaround time was atrocious but that's partly my fault since I
was unsure of how to proceed. Normal turnaround time should be four to
five days to get there, a day or two to test & rebuild, and then four or
five days to get back (it was from California to North Carolina and I
didn't pay the $40 for two-day shipping by Fedex).
A brand new board at a local appliance store would be $191 + about 10% tax
with a turnaround time of 1 day (let's double that, to two days or three
days to be safe).
Seems like a no brainer, in hindsight. The one thing is that the circuit
board medics did test the computer control board in addition to the motor
control board, so, in essence, we have to factor in that costs somewhere.
The DIAGNOSTIC lesson learned is pretty simple, but it's only something
that is learned from experience (which the circuit board medics did have).
If a Whirlpool duet Sport has an F28 (or F11 on Kenmore models), then
almost certainly it's the Motor Control Board, so, the FIRST THING you
should do for diagnostics is simply remove the back washer plate, remove
the lower brace, and remove the motor control board.
You *will* break every one of the four of five cheap plastic tie-wrap
butterfly anchors. I simply duct taped the new wires back in place but a
more elegant solution would have been to purchase a few of those anchor
Once you remove the motor control board, you will see black spots, which
is your confirmation of failure.
In the end, that is the simplest advice for an F28 (or F11) communications
error. The advice only works because the circuit board medics said an F28
communications error is 99% of the time the motor control board (or the
blue wires going to it fell off).
The rebuilt motor control board is still working great.
So, the solution when you have the F28 communications error is to check
the blue wires between the computer control unit and the motor control
unit and to check the motor control unit for black burnt spots.
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