Any washing machine experienced folks here?
Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing
machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something
popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".
It has power (although I cycled the home circuit breakers anyway), but it
won't do anything now when the "Start" button is pressed (nor when the
"Cancel" button is pressed). All the lights on the front light up normally
So, it will power up, but it won't do anything (e.g., no water turns on
and no spinning occurs - in fact, there are no sounds whatsoever from
inside). It won't even turn off with the "Cancel" button (although it will
turn off when I unplug it and then plug it back in).
It was bought in 2008 and it gets used about once a week or so (a bit more
now that we have my sister and her kids living with us).
Is the washer TOTALLY unresponsive (no lights at all)? Your comment that
it "will turn off when unplugged" suggests there is *some* sign of life.
Can you get it into its built-in diagnostic (self-test) mode? From
there, its easier to get an idea of what "popped" and your possible
recourse. Check your user manual or google "Whirlpool Duet Sport Diagnostics"
The lights look normal.
There are indicator lights for lots of things (e.g., water temperature,
rinse cycles, alarms, timers, etc., all of which seem to be normal).
The only thing is that the "Start" button does nothing.
No sounds. No water. No spinning.
Also, the "Cancel" button doesn't cancel.
I don't know how, but I will download a manual to see what it can tell me.
At this point, I'm only asking if anyone has experience with a similar
circumstance, where a "popping" sound presaged the Start button not
So, it's not completely dead (as you would expect if a "fuse was blown")
Chances are, some power semiconductor device expelled some "magic blue smoke".
Duet Washer Diagnostic Test Mode
Your Duet washer needs to be in standby (Plugged in with all lights off)
Pick any three buttons on the control except power, start, or cancel.
Now press this button sequence RAPIDLY (within eight seconds)
Button 1, Button 2, Button 3,
Button 1, Button 2, Button 3,
Button 1, Button 2, Button 3
You are pressing 9 buttons in 8 seconds so it needs to be pretty quick.)
If you've accessed the diagnostics, all the control lights will turn on
and "888" will be displayed showing you all the time display lights are
working. After a few seconds tall the washer's display lights will flash.
If there are any saved error or fault codes the time display should now
show the most recent error code.
[If this doesn't happen, try a different set of three buttons -- just
in case one of the buttons happens to coincidentally be broken! I.e.,
instead of A, B and C, try A, B and D (in case C is broken); then, try
A, C and D (in case B was broken); then B, C and D (in case A was broken)]
Remember which buttons you chose for #1, #2 and #3! You will be using them
again to troubleshoot problems.
Note: If no buttons are pressed on the washer for 5 minutes the washer
will exit the diagnostics mode.
for an explanation of error codes displayed.
The first URL also gives some "test procedures" you can do to "force"
the washer to perform specific actions -- which you can then observe
to give more clues as to likely problems.
One of the advantages of microprocessor controlled devices is that they
can provide some assistance *before* calling a "paid professional".
Note the procedure must be followed "to the letter".
Also note the serial numbers for which that document applies.
There are probably different sequences required to activate
these modes on different versions of the "same" product
(model numbers and names are only loosely correlated).
Do *any* of the buttons respond (by changing the displayed
indicators) -- or are the displays "frozen", regardless of
what you do?
I *think* the first thing that most front loaders do is try
to lock the door after the cycle is commanded to begin.
It's possible the door lock mechanism had/has a short and that
let the magic blue smoke escape.
Unfortunately, if it took out the control board in the process
(to the point where it is completely unresponsive even after
cycling power), knowing where the short lies is probably small
consolation. And, unless you can find and repair the short
(or other failure), repairing/replacing the control board will
just give you a repeat failure.
I think the problem is that those (otherwise very nice)
diagnostic-test instructions are for a newer model, as mine
is a Duet Sport model number WFW8410SW.
I didn't have this information before, because the door
won't open (which is where the sticker is); but I checked
my records and my duet is the "8410", which doesn't
have the blueish display screen that you see in the ones
described at that (otherwise nice) web page.
All the buttons do all the right things. Everything lights
up normally when I press the buttons. The only things that
don't work, really, is that the door is locked and the
washer won't start when I press the Start button.
All indicators respond normally otherwise.
- select a button
- press (and hold) it for 4 seconds
- release for 4 seconds
- press (and hold) it for 4 seconds
- release for 4 seconds
- press (and hold) it for 4 seconds
indicates a few more presses but I think you will see results
after the first three.
If the door won't open, then the lock mechanism is either broken
or the actuator to unlock it is not functioning. If the
door won't *lock*, then the washer won't start because there
is a switch in the mechanism that informs the washer that the
door is, in fact, locked. (but, the washer should complain
that it can't lock the door/"door open")
Yea, we formed a neighbourhood committee to inspect and periodically check on
the water supply up here. After about six months of pumping, the one gray
well turned out to be crystalline clear (for now), so, that's been fixed.
Meanwhile, we formed a mesh Internet network, and we cleaned entire hillsides
of poison oak (see picture I just posted below from that last endeavor):
We cleaned up the hillside of old washing machines and tires too!
And, you should see many thousands of Scotch Broom we pulled out after
the last good drenching (the tap roots only come out when the ground
is literally soaked).
So, um, yeah. We've been busy in the boonies of Silicon Valley.
Thanks for noticing that we all work together (as Jeff Liebermann would
know, we stick together in the mountains).
I called the "circuit board medics" at 800-547-2049 last week who
said that an F28 on the Whirlpool duet sport washer is almost always
a bad motor control board.
This was before I had taken out the MCU and found it burnt, so, they're
right. In hindsight, if I had only known that, I wouldn't have removed
both the CCU and the EMI filter (I broke a wire on the CCU trying to get
it out, for example).
So, to help others.
1. If you get an F28 on the Whirlpool duet sport WFW8410SW, it's almost
always the motor control board.
2. Wiggle the blue wires on both the motor control board and the CCU,
but if that doesn't solve the problem, then you have to remove the
motor control board.
3. To remove the MCU, you have to remove the 16 quarter-inch hexhead
screws holding the back plate in place.
4. It's advised to also remove the lower cross brace (two more screws).
5. Some people remove the top of the shock absorber but I left it in place.
6. Then you have to cut or dig out the 4 tie wraps holding the harnesses
to the MCU plastic covering.
7. Then you have to be a genius or a magician to put a screwdriver under
the MCU white box and pry it up and then slide the MCU toward the
front of the washer, to get it to release its grip.
8. Then you remove all the wire connections & pull it out from the
bottom of the Whirlpool duet sport washer.
9. Once you pry open (and probably break) the crappy plastic (they
really use really really really brittle plastic), you will see
the scorch marks as shown below.
At this point, you put the MMU back in its plastic case, and you remove
the CCU (if desired) and you ship both of those boards to the rebuilders
at "Circuit Board Medics" 800-547-2049x3) at your cost. They told me
that USPS is the least responsible, so use UPS or Fedex.
Exclusive of your costs to ship to them, the charges are:
A. Exchange rebuilt MCU = $175 ($160 + $15 shipping + $100 core charge)
B. Rebuild your MCU = $145 ($130 + $15 return shipping)
They give you a 1-year warranty and they will test both boards for
free, just in case my totally burned out MCU isn't the real problem.
Here's a picture of my CCU, which seems to be in OK shape:
Unless I find a better deal than ~$150, I think I'll have them rebuild
my board. A brand-new washer is only four or five times that at about
$600 to $800, so, it's an expensive enough repair to wonder if I should
just buy a new washer instead.
Nonetheless, I don't have much money lately (being retired is costing
me more than I thought, especially with two families living under the
same household now, with my sister and her kids living with me), so,
I will just look to see if I can find a new board for around that same
Otherwise, I'd suggest the rebuilders as they seem competent.
On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 14:39:57 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:
We can never be sure, but what we did was hike downhill from the
spot the 500 foot well was dug. We hiked about 500 feet below
that house and then we dug into the hillside (it's public open
space, so, we just dug without permission with our hands).
Since the hill is steep, there was only about six inches of
top soil, which we kicked away with our boots, and we noticed
that there was a wide expance of gray "mud" at that level.
When we stopped for a moment to survey the area, we belatedly
noticed a "band" of no vegetation at about the same level,
crossing the mountainside along the isocline.
Given that we kicked away the topsoil in a half dozen spots,
where this band seems very localized (about 100 feet long and
only about 6 feet to 15 feet in height), our *assumption* is
that there is a band of mud that was mixed up with the
Franciscan sediments 30 million (or so) years ago when
the Pacific plate rammed into the edge of California.
So, what we *think* happened is that the well drillers simply
hit that "puddle" of gray mud at about 500 feet and that it took
months to pump all that mud out from the pocket that the drillers
were obtaining the water from.
The funny thing is that just those two houses experienced that
gray mud, which even the well drillers said was odd in our area,
so, take everything we say with a grain of salt, but do realize
there are a lot of engineers on this hell who have pondered this
situation, so, that's the best we could have come up with.
BTW, the 100-foot long 15-feet wide bridge and treehouse was put
on hold because the storms blew it down. But we rebuilt it, and
we're starting to build the 16-foot-by-16-foot treehouse itself,
but this time, we anchored 1/2 inch steel cables to hold the
treehouse *above* the 100-foot long bridge (Jeff Liebermann is
always welcome to visit and I'll show it to him since he lives
If you want, I'll snap some pictures of the new setup, but, it
will look really nice since it's 80 feet above the ground when
it's all done. Right now, we have the 100-foot suspension bridge
done, and we're starting on the treehouse itself, which is going
to be floating above the suspension bridge about 75 feet from
the hillside and about 25 feet from the anchor redwood and about
80 or so feet above the ground.
For my LG front loader - access is achieved by removing the top.
There are other appliance forums that you might wish to search
or post your enquiry ... http://appliantology.org/
Let us know what you find - good luck.
Thanks for the advice.
It looks like removing the bottom also gains access to things,
which is shown in these two videos (although their problem is
that it won't drain - which isn't my problem - but that's the
same model as mine, which is the WFW8410SW where I think SW
just means "white") so it's a WFW8410.
Video 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQTvBSnEWsI
Video 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1ceH7TKkoE
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 16:33:18 +0800, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
Thanks for the pointer, but I can't get any codes out of the
Whirlpool duet Sport Washer WFW8410SW even though I have the following
manuals as described on this post from more than two years ago on the
same washer (but for a different problem).
(WFW8410SW) Use & Care Guide:
BTW, all the lights light, but nothing works; even the door is locked
shut (with the clothes still imprisoned inside).
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