On Mon, 02 May 2016 09:32:04 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:
Thanks for the suggestion of a whole-house surge suppressor.
I do have a generator, which kicks in automatically as the power goes
out here in California at least a dozen times a year (it's like living
in a third world country).
I'm not even counting the times the power goes out for seconds, where
the generator doesn't even kick in, or only kicks in for a few seconds,
the power is that bad from PG&E.
So, the two-hundred dollar Amazon surge suppressor you listed looks
reasonable (considering it would cost more than that to put MOVs on
all the computers and electronic devices).
I wonder how it works if I buy that two-hundred dollar part:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Or, if I buy the eighty-dollar part:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)62207395&sr=8-4
Does the power company let me put it in myself?
On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:
Just to give back to the team with a current update ........
1. I shipped the boards off to "Circuit Board Medics" at 800-547-2049
2. They told me over the phone my F28 (aka F11) is almost certainly a blown MMU.
3. They didn't know it at the time, but my MMU has multiple charcoal spots!
4. So, they're right.
5. Nonetheless, I sent them *both* the MMU and the CCU.
6. This is so that they can test them both (just in case).
7. Current charges are $130 + $15 Fed Ex out + $15 shipping & handling back.
8. That's $160 for them to rebuild the MMU, with a 1-year warranty.
9. Other options were to buy a new ($200 to $300) or used ($100 to $200) MMU.
10. Or a new washing machine ($600 to $800).
Naah. I'm not a believer in warrantees.
A lot of people buy batteries, for example, based on the warranty, which
is ridiculous for something so easily characterized by its physical
attributes. Same with tires which have standardized tests run on them
(yes, I know the tests are flawed, but relying on the standard government
tests is better than relying upon marketing warrantees).
In fact, I can't think of more than one or two instances in my entire
life that I've actually made good on a parts warranty anyway.
So, I'm not really worried about the warranty. I'm more worried that
I just paid almost $200 to repair something that is only worth about
3 to 4 times that, which is an almost unacceptable level of repair.
In fact, parting out washing machines must be a lucrative business
because the darn thing only has about a dozen major parts, so, if each
major part is $200, then I should *buy* new washing machines and part
them out as a business to supplement my retirement.
On Thu, 05 May 2016 20:25:26 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:
By the way, since I wonder what you guys think of the three shipping
services, as I ran into the following "issue" trying to ship a 2 pound
box from California to South Carolina.
Since I needed to trust that the parts got there and that they weren't
lost, and since I didn't pay for insurance (I never do), I didn't use
the USPS because, in my experience, USPS may be inexpensive, but they're
quite unreliable (highly unreliable in fact).
Normally, I have no problem with UPS being the cheapest shipper and the
second most reliable shipper. But in this case, UPS was $18 so I walked
out the door and headed over to FedEx to check their prices.
Normally I find FedEx the most reliable but often the most expensive,
but in this case, they were 3 dollars cheaper (on a $15 price, which
is a whopping 20%) so, I went with FedEx five day.
Do you normally find FedEx to be cheaper than UPS?
I thought it was normally the other way around?
Fedex, always cheaper.
Have you not heard of Ebay?
If the link is not working its Ebay item 141974974420
There's probably other listings
I'm actually surprised that FedEx is "always cheaper" than UPS.
If that's true, I wonder why?
Of course, it could be simply a business decision, or, maybe they
have inherent efficiencies over UPS?
Why would Fedex be "always cheaper" than UPS (for typical packages)?
When I googled for the part, I saw $25 boards on Ebay.
While I love a good price as much as anyone does, the range for the boards was
from $25 to $250 aftermarket, and $300 OEM from Whirlpool.
The problem with that is I don't have the EXPERIENCE to know which Ebay
supplier is reliably providing a good board or not.
While I'm all for taking risks, you usually have to offset a risk
with some knowledge. For example, I don't buy tire warrantees because
I can fix my own flats, so, I ameliorate the risk.
I didn't have the knowledge to buy a $25 board on Ebay and get
away with it on the first shot by getting a good part.
I saw that EXACT board when I first googled, as I remember the
writing on the metal heat sink. The problem is that I don't
have enough information to TRUST that $60 price. Yeah, I see
the 98% feedback but I don't know how much I can trust that.
Like anyone, I'd rather pay $60 + $15 +$15 = $90 over
$145 + $15 = $160 but I feel I can trust the circuit board medics,
while I'm not sure what to trust in that board.
So, I *would* have gone for the $25 board if I had more information,
but I didn't have enough to trust Ebay.
UPS is union labor, Fedex are not, which is why they are sometimes
really crap at deliveries using contracted white van guys. I've had
plenty of problems with fedex but they usually sort it in my favor. Not
knocking UPS, they are good but also have a few bad guys. For a washing
machine board I'd use USPS priority. (Use the free boxes). Never lost
one package in 16 years.
You seem to be overworking the washing machine thing, for $60 I'd go for
the "tested working" board, if it don't work or blows up when installed
you get your money back through Ebay (no contest there) and you probably
know there is something else wrong that's blowing up the board. Same
thing will happen with your $200 rebuild. Scary stuff.
This may very well be the case.
It's too late now, but, you must agree that I did *ask* first!
Your suggestion didn't come up until *after* I made the decision.
However, its' still a good one, as maybe I erred on the wrong side.
I won't know if it works if I made the right decision.
But if it doesn't work - that's where we'll see if it matters.
I do *understand* your point that I wasted my money out of sheer fear.
But, to my credit, I *did* ask first.
On Sat, 07 May 2016 17:34:22 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:
Here, in California, in the boonies of Silicon Valley, the power
went out about 5 or 6 times for at least an hour in the last
month or two.
There were at least a half dozen or more times where the power
just momentarily flickered throughout the whole house.
So a "whole house" surge suppressor is a good idea, as long
as it has a feasible installation cost.
As a personal note I find this unacceptable. I would be on the phone with
the supplier and lodge a complaint. Find out what is the maximum acceptable
outage rate from the state. Complain. There may be one fault that affects
many and you would be helping your neighbors and yourself. The squeaky wheel
gets the grease.
There has been other discussions on whole house protectors. Like Unc says
the utility may supply them for what I feel (at least around here) an
excessive cost. An electrician can install one and be done. I would also
have the sparky check all grounding and bonding while he she is there as
many of these kind of faults are where the problem lies. I believe G
Fretwell or Claire brought this up. I would also check out John Grabowski's
info as he has been another straight shooter here.
It's your money so tell those wimmen to grab rocks and go to the stream
because you want your tighty whiteys spotless.
Multiple surges, depending on duration and surge strength can take
their toll on any surge surpressor too. Including the panel install
style. The panel surge surpressor does offer some protection, but,
don't put all your eggs in one basket.
MID: <nb7u27$crn$ email@example.com>
Hmmm. I most certainly don't understand how I can access a copy of a
On Mon, 23 May 2016 16:28:06 -0400, Tekkie® wrote:
Anyway, after telling the Circuit Board Medics to just send me
everything back, they decided to change their pricing back to what
they had originally told me.
They tried to talk me into a 40 dollar shipping but I refused,
since I was not happy with them changing their prices on me.
To be fair, they think they didn't change their price. I did.
They originally told me that it's OK if the board is burnt, as
long as it didn't have 'water damage'. I offered to send them
a picture beforehand, but they said they didn't need that.
Then, when they got the board, they tried to tell me they
couldn't use the core board, and at that point, they wanted
to charge me an additional hundred dollars. That would have
made the rebuilt replacement MORE expensive than a new board
(which is $191 at the local appliance shop).
I told them to send me everything back, and then they called
me up and changed their story back to what it originally was.
We'll see how this turns out, but, I can't really recommend
them at this point. In hindsight, the right answer would have
been to just pick up a NEW board for about $200 locally instead
of their rebuild for $165 + $20 shipping.
The latest update is that the Circuit Board Medics tried to screw me
(IMHO) so I told them to send me back everything.
Two days later they call me up (to their credit, they called both
days but I didn't bother to pick up the phone), and changed their tune.
So, at the moment, they're gonna send me back my original CCU and a
rebuilt MCU for $165 (plus my original $$20 or so to ship it to them).
In the end, it was a waste of time and money to go to the Circuit Board
Medics because for $191 + about 10% tax I could have gotten a brand
new MCU board locally in 1 day.
But anyway, I'll let you know what happens when the board arrives and
I put it in the washing machine. (The women folk are on my case.)
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