On Wednesday, February 10, 2016 at 12:32:58 AM UTC-5, Robert Green wrote:
Thanks for the link, but that doesn't really fit the situation I was describing.
Article: GDO without automatic reverse or where automatic feature was broken.
Me: Properly working automatic reverse (implied) set at the maximum downforce.
The question is about the downforce. The downforce setting will force the door past some
level of obstruction. The question is whether or not it can be set strong enough so that
the door doesn't reverse before the death of a teenager or young adult occurs.
IME, the photocells aren't worth their cost. They really only detect things
that are ON the garage floor IN the path of the beam.
E.g., a kids wagon or bicycle typically won't trip the detector (the light
shines under or through). The same is true of vehicles (unless their front
or rear axles are in the path.
Openers that sense closing force (reversing when the feel "resistance")
also have too heavy of a hand in sensing (i.e., they'd crease the hood
of a vehicle parked beneath it). The door mechanism would have to be
critically damped to make them practical (at very low forces).
I agree with everything you say Don, and I am certainly aware that a lot
of those photoelectric sensors end up being mounted on the garage ceiling.
Probably a lot of them are up there because the homeowner who installed
the opener was too lazy to string and fasten the leads from the opener's
location to the both sides of the bottom of the door frame and
sometimes might also have to add a couple of pieces of wood to mount the
units on so they were located properly. (Like I had to.)
But, since my luck is so bad that if someone left me a cemetery in their
will, people would stop dying, I just didn't want to risk the remote
possibility that someone would get seriously injured in a freak accident
being smashed by the door while it was closing and I'd get nailed for
deliberately ignoring the installation instructions. So, I installed
them "the right way" and will put up with whatever minor annoyances they
may cause me in the future.
Ditto. Despite the fact that the included "brackets" SUGGESTED they should
just clip onto the door rails! (didn't fit)
I installed them on our opener as well. I'm just commenting that they
(so far) have been more of a nuisance than a help.
Garage door has "stiffener ribs" that protrude about 3" into the garage from
the plane of the door. Not used to the "fit" of the new car in the garage,
yet, so always fear I've not BACKED IN (SWMBO doesn't like backing OUT!)
far enough to clear those "ribs". Each time I close the door I half expect
to hear them slap the front of the car as the door comes down (the photocell
doing nothing to prevent this!)
As you said, anything you've LEFT (or that has shifted position) in the path
causes the opener to complain. Last time, it was the rope for the cutting
blade on the pole saw that had dropped into the path. Of course, doesn't
cause a problem when you *open* the door. So, you're a bit surprised when
the door decides not to *close*! ("Huh? It opened just a minute ago;
why isn't it CLOSING, now??")
Also, it appears to "see" more than just the direct line between emitter
and detector. When I command the door closed and then try to run OUT
under the closing door -- taking care to "step over" the light path -- it
often "sees me" and reverses, even though I KNOW that I haven't broken
the light path.
I have issues with "safety devices" that have (significant) limitations.
E.g., the "cross traffic alert" on the car (tells you when other cars
are approaching from either side as you are backing out) sometimes sees
pedestrians; sometimes not; usually sees oncoming cars; sometimes not;
etc. I.e., it's not something that you can RELY upon.
It would be like walking with crutches -- that *sometimes* collapse under
your weight! :-/
I mounted my photocells about 2 feet off the floor. That way if I don't get
the truck all the way in it may see it. The garage is only about 2 feet
longer than the truck and I have to pull almost top the wall if I want to
get the door shut and maybe walk around the truck with the garage door
I usually have a push broom hanging on a peg board and drive the truck so I
just bump it to let me know when I am far enough in.
I've got a lally column in our garage which tells me my car is pulled in
the right distance when its right side view mirror is next to that
column. A front seat passenger has to get out of the car before I pull
That's an idea! (D'oh!) Of course, it opens up a "vulnerability" *below*.
But, I suspect there is some "better height" than the 6" that I opted for
In our case, we have something like 10"!
There are stiffener ribs on the inside of the garage door that eat up ~3 inches
inside the plane of the garage door.
We back in (SWMBO doesn't like backing OUT, into "traffic") so need to
allow space behind the car for the liftgate (otherwise, we'd have to
load/unload the vehicle in the driveway!). This requires 13" for the
liftgate (which swings BACK as it lifts UP).
We try to allow a couple (literally "2 or 3") of extra inches behind the car
so we can STAND there (liftgate open) to load/unload (then, step aside
as the liftgate opens/closes).
I mounted a tennis ball on a string hanging so that it hits the
driver's side mirror as you back in. There's also a dotted line
on the backup camera display that we can use to gauge how close
we are to the objects behind the vehicle while backing in. The
two "indicators" (camera and ball) have to be in agreement before
I'll let the door close! (i.e., what happens if the camera is
ever knocked out of alignment?? :> )
A neighbor has a "mat" of sorts that he drives over as he enters
his garage. The mat has a "lip" (like a parking curb) on it that
impedes the motion of the car past the "sweet spot". A nice idea
but I don't know what keeps it from MOVING (or BEING moved!)
when the vehicle's weight isn't holding it in place!
Or just a couple dabs of liquid nails. Actually, I don't even use
2x4's any more. Did that for my wife, and she doesn't need them now
There's always something to tap, like a ladder or lawnmower handle.
When I started this thread I said that the leaf was stuck to the bottom
edge of the garage door. That wasn't a very accurate description. The
leaf was actually stuck to the top of the stiffener rib at the bottom of
the garage door. It reached inward enough to interrupt the photobeam
which was located just beyond the didtance that rib extended towards the
inside of the garage.
Does anyone know when the color coding of the linear door springs was started? I also have had to replace one spring that was from before the color coding era that we have today. I chose one based on the diameter of the spring material itself.
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