The threads on nipple with the red tape wrapped around it to prevent the
drip were apparently twisted off at the junction when the cleanout guy
removed the trap. Seems that was able to rethread the trap onto
remaining threads enough to get by for a while. One can see the nipple
is now short by the offset from the sink drain now required to hit the
Thanks. As I suspected, the photo tells a lot more about the situation.
1. The existing plumbing does appear to be galvanized steel.
2. Using the plastic tail pipe as reference, it looks like 2" pipe, though
it could be 1.5" (width, not length).
3. The piece you need is a pipe nipple. However, with the limited space you
probably need a "close" nipple. Basically, this just means the short
segment of pipe is threaded from end to end so the fittings can fit
4. The tee the pipe nipple threads into appears to be installed upside
down. The side inlet should slope downward so water can flow down the drain
properly. Yours looks like it slopes upwards toward the vent. Ideally, that
should be replaced.
5. It's hard to tell from the small photo, but it looks like there's
another piece of tape (duct tape?) wrapped around the pipe below the tee.
Was that another leak?
If it was me, I would replace the existing trap and tee with all new PVC or
ABS pipe. To avoid issues with trying to dismantle old corroded fittings, I
would probably just cut the galvanized pipe with a hacksaw below the tee
and use a Fernco coupling to add the new parts. You may want to support the
pipe above and below the point you're cutting it so it doesn't drop into
the floor if it's not properly anchored.
On Saturday, June 21, 2014 1:21:46 PM UTC-4, HerHusband wrote:
It's hard to tell from the small photo, but it looks like there's
Anthony, yes a 'real plumber' did that years ago before I bought the house
according to the previous owner in order to snake it straight down and the
n taped it. I am a diy..but particularly not in plumbing of that nature so
i would have to leave all to the discretion of a real plumber. To the best
of my knowledge, PVC's are not allowed or were not allowed in NYC.
Good catch on the the swept-tee being upside down--I didn't notice it
was anything other than an ordinary tee.
If it were mine, the idea of fixing the T is good; I'd go w/ a reducing
sweep tee if can find one; if not use a bushing to go to standard 1-1/2"
drain and then can go to the run-of-the-mill currently available
selection of drain parts from any corner hardware.
The tee may be a bit of a challenge locally at anything other than a
full-supply plumbing supply house, however; a quick search of the BORG
stock didn't show that they had any sweep tees at all, what more a
3x3x1-1/2 or whatever it actually is (I'm still thinking that isn't 3"
line, too). It really doesn't look like there's anything wrong w/ the
one there itself altho the question of what the tape below is doing
there is a possible worry.
In fact, now that I look at that again, wondering about the question of
dissassembly, there's a bushing in the bottom outlet and it may well be
that it's a reducing tee itself as I can't now convince myself the
bottom D is as large as the inlet and tee sides. It may be 3x2x3; the
top surely is pretty-good-sized.
Looking at the practicality of it, unless there's an issue from the tee
down, I'd just plan on replacing the nipple w/ a reducer as above--the
reversed sweep clearly worked for a long time; I'd probably wait until
there were reasons to redo a bunch before tackling that much unless OP
just wants to do it now...
On Saturday, June 21, 2014 1:58:09 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
All of the above is why I said it's probably not a good idea for the
OP to be going out to buy a 3" close nipple. A lot of possible factors
that could go into how the repair is done. I agree it was a good catch
by HH, that the T looks like it's installed in the wrong direction.
Hard to tell for sure though from the pic. Also interesting is what that
tape below is doing there. If all is sound except the nipple, and
the cause of problems hasn't been the T, then I'd agree with you, I'd
just leave the T alone and work from there. But I'd leave it for the
person doing the work to decide how to proceed.
I'd suggested previously that maybe there is enough room so you could
put a reducing bushing in the T, then go to a new P trap with a slip
joint so that it can properly align. The way this thing was done, it
depends on the length of that nipple, how far it goes in when tightened
up to get a vertical alignment with the sink tailpiece. Not a good
way of doing things.
On Sat, 21 Jun 2014 03:47:58 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
In DRAINS it is common to have threaded brass" tail-pieces" that
corrode and break off. Generally they thread in one end and have a
"compression sleave" type connection at the other end to seal what is
in reality a slip fit joint.
What he needs is a proper plumber to replace the whole messed up
abortion of a drain system he has there. The T-Y into the drain is
installed upside-down, for starters. I've not seen a galvanized drain
system in over 40 years - And the tailpiece into the trap doesn't line
up straight - so the nipple, if he was going to just replace it, needs
to be about half an inch longer. Removing the broken nipple from the
fitting without breaking the pipe above or below is a crap-shoot at
I don't blame the drain-cleaner for not getting involved in the
repair. It's got trouble written all over it. Impossible to give an
estimate on, because there is no way to know where you will eventually
be able to stop.
On Saturday, June 21, 2014 8:21:46 PM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
That's probably because it's just a close nipple. Nipples don't
come in any size you want. Which is why I suggested that if he's lucky,
there might be enough room to go with a new P trap that has a slip joint fitting on the end that goes to the tee, so the length doesn't matter.
It's not clear, but the drain guy may have already unscrewed the
nipple from the tee. If not, I agree, that could be a PIA.
And it sure looks like the tee is upside down. I guess if it's
worked relatively trouble free for 50 years, it can be left there,
unless, as you say, it's shot too. If this sink has had regular
trouble though, the incorrect tee may be part of the problem.
Agree. Which is why I advised that going out to buy a 3" by 3" nipple
might not be a good idea.
As far as I know, PVC and ABS are standard in the national plumbing codes.
Of course, it's entirely possible you have a local code that supercedes the
national code. If that's the case, you would probably have to go with
galvanized again. Here in Washington state, I don't think I've ever even
seen a galvanized P-trap. :)
From the photo and what you're describing, it sounds like the plumbing has
been pieced together and patched up over the years. It probably needs
updating, but then you run into the old issue of how far do you go.
Problems tend to escalate when you're dealing with old pipe. It could turn
into a real headache.
As another poster mentioned, if you can get that old pipe nipple out
without breaking things, it might be smart to just replace that and leave
the rest alone. At least until you can afford to update the rest of the
I've not kept up, but many big cities with strong unions don't follow
the national codes. Philadelphia used to insist on copper for water
pipes, Chicago used to insist on conduit, not Romex for wiring. Things
may have changed, but they kept the union members entrenched for a long
time after the rest of the country modernized.
I must have missed your earlier post, but your suggestion is a good option.
That would give a little bit of horizontal adjustment for aligning the P-
Of course, if NYC doesn't allow plastic pipe as Novel thinks, that may not
be an option.
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