How to find a 3" pipe, threaded on both ends and 3" long?

Googling, apparently nyc changed a few years ago. Looks like PVC is allowed for residential, 5 stories or less. OP could check, to be sure, if they really care for just a trap.

It would appear it's a half-inch short because OP said in original post, the portion of the threads twisted off when the fella' took the trap off...

One can always make one whatever length required altho again as another said the simpler solution for the drain would be to go to the standard slip joint.

But.... What we don't know is if the original length was a standard close nipple or a length cut to make it fit. If it's standard, they got mighty lucky..... That sucker has to be pretty close to the right size to get the tailpiece vertical.

On 6/22/2014 12:51 PM, trader_4 wrote: ...

Of course it does (have to be the right length, that is), but given a union plumber in NYC in the 40s or 50s, what's to think he didn't have the whole shop set up at the time and did it all onsite? I'm guessing altho afair OP hasn't said that this must be a multi-story brownstone or something similar -- otherwise the stack pipe would likely not be 3", either if were single-family dwelling.

The curious thing is how it's assembled from the sink to manage to get the tailpiece into the trap...there's got to be a slip joint there or it'll be a real trick...

But, I'm presuming the guy who did it can measure...it would surely have been nice if our OP had put a ruler or some other fixed-size object in there when took the picture...

I agree. It's precisely my point. If it's not a standard length nipple, buying one isn't going to work. And I wouldn't trust the drain guy to have measured it correctly. Folks here are assuming the reason it's not vertical is because some of the threads on the end broke off. But these fittings are tapered. I think you could take 1/2" off the end and it still would tighten up to about the same length, no? Meaning it may never have been the right length to begin with.

I'm guessing

Yep, which is why I said if he can get a new P trap with a slip joint in there, using a reducing bushing in the T, etc, that would be much better/easier.

Maybe, but I'd leave it to the guy who's going to do it to figure out the best solution, right size, etc. If you hand him the new nipple, then the new P trap solution is out and if he tightens it up and the vertical alignment is off, then Doh!

I'm still wondering what the duct tape below the tee is all about. He said something about that being put there with regard to a previous snaking of the drain? I couldn't make any sense of that. I hope he's not saying they made a hole in the pipe to get the snake in, then covered it with duct tape....

Then use copper/brass. ANYTHING but iron!!!

Actually they do - standard to every half inch - but to every quarter are available (or were last I needed one - admittedly over a decade ago) Not hard to custom make a nipple any size you need if you have a pipe threader available - havr it made at your local plumbing supply, or even Home Despot.

Np, that part is still there, stuck in the "T" fitting.

On 6/22/2014 2:07 PM, trader_4 wrote: ...

Maybe, maybe not (originally perfect length, that is)--we have no way to know. I'm at least one who thinks from OPs original posting that it is so that the threads twisted off in the trap when removed, yes. And, yes NPT are tapered but once broke off the end, the remaining are larger and unless he happened to have a 3" die set with him (what's the odds of that if just the snaker-guy? :) ) he can't rethread so they'll snug up quite soon...in fact, I'm somewhat surprised he was able to get it back on, but appears to have done so.

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Which I also said quite some time ago...

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Well, I've not said anything against that at all, necessarily, only that if the OP wants to just go back w/ the original, there's no real reason not to imo -- I don't think any of the other "issues" raised are truly significant in the bigger schemes of things. I'd guess it'll go another

As for the ruler wish, I was only interested in the true dimensions just as a point of curiosity about it really being 3" drain there--that's just remarkable if so it would seem...

Don't know, don't think I _want_ to know... :)

Galvanized pipe is inexpensive and easy to find most anywhere.

Around here, copper pipe over 1" is unheard of and would surely be expensive if you could find it.

Brass pipe is a bit rare in large sizes, but it's always expensive when I can locate it. The few times I've needed large brass fittings, I have ordered them online from plumbingsupply.com.

Anthony Watson

o do it myself. Below the sink, he took off the trap that had what he calle d a 3" pipe attached to it. Well as he was trying to remove it, part of the thread broke off. it was old and rusted. Now, he told me to have it replac e. His job did not call for replacing pipes and had me sign a waver for tha t. That's fine. Now what I want to know is how to go about getting that pip e. I'm sure its not ready made, or maybe I am wrong. I know it probably won 't be available in a regular hardware store. He said to ask for a 3" pipe, threaded on both ends and 3" long. Isn't that what they call a 'coupler"?

To all you guys... and gals? It is a single home. I will check about the PV C's if its necessary, when the plumber comes this morning to check it out. The drain cleaner did put a ruler to it after I questioned him and he did s ay 3" by 3" threaded at both ends. Obviously with that size, its not center ed, so I guess its going to be at least longer than 3"...but again I will leave that up to the plumber. It definitely has to be removed cause like I said, part of the thread going into the T broke off that is why we taped it and its holding up pretty good considering.

to do it myself. Below the sink, he took off the trap that had what he cal led a 3" pipe attached to it. Well as he was trying to remove it, part of t he thread broke off. it was old and rusted. Now, he told me to have it repl ace. His job did not call for replacing pipes and had me sign a waver for t hat. That's fine. Now what I want to know is how to go about getting that p ipe. I'm sure its not ready made, or maybe I am wrong. I know it probably w on't be available in a regular hardware store. He said to ask for a 3" pipe , threaded on both ends and 3" long. Isn't that what they call a 'coupler"?

PVC's if its necessary, when the plumber comes this morning to check it out . The drain cleaner did put a ruler to it after I questioned him and he did say 3" by 3" threaded at both ends. Obviously with that size, its not cent ered, so I guess its going to be at least longer than 3"...

No idea what that means. If it's 3" long, it's 3" long.

but again I will leave that up to the plumber. It definitely has to be remo ved cause like I said, part of the thread going into the T broke off that i s why we taped it and its holding up pretty good considering.

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Is it a multi-story home then? What's above that stack?

That they used a full 3" trap is amazing to me--I don't think I've ever seen such outside a commercial kitchen or the like.

The plan to let the plumber dude arrange as sees fit is probably best bet; you might ask about the idea of reversing the T direction and what is the tape around the lower exit line going on down doing? If he's going to be out anyway, better do what should be done at one time if there's something fishy there.

What's below the sink/floor? Access hopefully not a slab???

Brass drainkits are extremely common - plastic is taking over, but brass traps, tailpeices, and fittings are available froam any decent plumbing supplier in all the common drain sizes (I still do NOT believe the drain referenced is 3 inch)

In the picture the nipple sure looks considerably longer than the diameter -----

I'd say inch and a quarter, or inch and a half.

More likely to be brass, usually chrome-plated.

where the red tape is is 3" pipe. do some measuring to other items in the photo.

Really? Seems a bit large for sink drain.