What insulation makes sense for a drafty old brick building?

I did pretty much this exact project on a 1920s double-brick house and I'd lean toward the foam-on-brick approach, but with a twist. The fiberglass-in-a-stud-wall plan has a real weakness on solid masonry: the brick stays cold, the warm humid room air migrates through the fiberglass, hits the cold brick, and condenses right where you can't see it. Fiberglass against cold masonry is a moisture trap waiting to happen. Rigid foam glued or mechanically fastened right to the brick keeps the masonry on the warm side of the assembly, wich is what you want.

Done a few of these over the years, back when the old-timers I worked with just strapped the wall out with 1x furring and paper-faced bats. No air sealing at all, and those rooms blew like a barn. The part nobody stresses enough is the baseboard line you mentioned. That draft is ussually cold air coming through the joint where the wall meets the floor. Whichever system you pick, run a bead of sealant along that joint and any window returns before the wall goes up. Also ask the foam guy what adhesive he's using, because cheap glue lets sheets sag off brick after a few years. Seen it happen.

We did foam straight onto brick in our sunroom and the sheets themselves weren't the issue, the seams were. Didn't tape them the first time and you could still feel streaks on cold mornings. Second go I taped every joint and ran a bead where the foam met the floor, and that's what finally killed the draft. As for the brick breathing thing, our house is 1948 and the masonry's been fine, I figure becuase the foam keeps it warm and dry instead of letting it get soaked and frozen. One thing I'd check before gluing anything is whether the wall's dead flat, since a bowed brick wall will leave hollow spots behind the sheets.

Update: we're leaning foam glued to brick after reading the 1920s double-brick story, sounds like the closest match to our walls. But the sunroom reply got me wondering, since taping every seam made the difference there. The first poster said the brick still needs some way to dry inward. Does regular foil-faced board block that completley, or is the unfaced stuff the safer call for a 1950s building?