Tips for managing sawzall blades that nobody talks about

I’ve tried the "show the teeth" method on a commercial remodel last winter and it defintely shuts the foreman up. Nothing stops a lecture faster than a Diablo Steel Demon with the teeth literally melted off from hitting a hardened bolt. I used to just toss them in the dumpster, but carrying a small "junk bucket" on the lift made the requisition process way less of a headache.

On the technical side, I acutally disagree a bit on the orbital setting for metal. I’ve found that if I leave the orbital on while cutting trough heavy gauge studs, I end up snapping more 9-inch blades than I save. I keep it strictly linear for the thick stuff and only kick the orbit in when I'm ripping through 2x4s or subflooring. It might be slower, but I’m not the guy walking back to the gang box every twenty minutes beacuse my blade looks like a noodle.

Also, keeping that private stash is key. I’ve got a couple of those 12-inch wood-with-nails blades tucked behind the seat of my truck. When the site runs dry and everyone else is struggling with a 6-inch dullard, I can actually finish my section and head home on time.

I'm with ya on the linear setting for metal. People don't realize how fast heat kills those carbides. I usally keep a stick of wax or even just a spray bottle of water nearby if I'm doing a ton of pipe. It's messy, sure, but the blades last twice as long and I don't have to deal with the boss's attitude as often. Also, if you're relly desperate, just 'accidentally' snap a dull one in a tight spot—it's way harder for 'em to say no to a replacement when the tool's literally broken in half.

Stroke length is the real tooth-killer nobody talks about. If you're running a Milwaukee M18 Fuel with that 1-1/4 inch stroke, you can’t treat it like a cheap corded unit. I’ve switched to Lenox Diamond Grit for cast iron beacuse even those Diablo carbides chug too much on the thick stuff. Also, check your TPI. Guys grab a 14 TPI for everythign, but if you’re hitting 1/8 inch angle iron, you better step up to an 18 or 24 TPI or you’re just gonna rip the teeth off the shank. I keep a pack of the Milwaukee Ax 5 TPI strictly for framing demo. Anything else is a waste of money.

The Milwaukee AX with Carbide Teeth is the only way to go for heavy demo if you're sick of swapping every five minutes. I used to burn through the standard bi-metal stuff, but those AX blades actualy handle embedded screws and bolts without losing half the edge. I keep a five-pack of the 9-inch AX blades in my personal bag. When the site-provided blades start smoking on some old-growth pine, I swap one in and the foreman usually doesn't even notice I'm moving twice as fast. It’s the easiest way to look like a hero without having to beg for more supplies.

Quick update — I tried that wax trick for the thick pipe cuts and it’s a game changer for heat control. No more melted teeth. I’m thinking about picking up some of those Lenox Diamond Grit blades next. For those using them, do they handle that high stroke length on the M18 Fuel okay, or do they just chatter too much?