Anyone know the name of that trim strip for Florida flange windows?

Those strips are usually just **PVC lattice** or **flat stock trim**. You won't typically find a specific "buck cover" kit because every window buck setup is a little diffrent depending on how deep the window was set and how thick the wood is. Most guys just buy 8-foot or 12-foot lengths of vinyl lattice from the moulding aisle and rip them down to size on a table saw if they're too wide for the gap. If you're looking for somthing that won't rot out in the humidity, defintely go with cellular PVC. Wood lattice or lath will just peel and warp in a couple of seasons, expecially with the Florida sun hitting it. The "Florida flange" style windows sit on the face of the block, but that buck is still tucked back there. Covering it with that thin strip makes the transition look like it was actually planned out instead of just being an afterthought.

When you install them, don't just nail them and walk away. You want to run a bead of high-quality sealant—something like **NP1 or a hybrid polymer**—behind the strip where it meets the block and the window frame. It's not just about looks; it keeps driving rain from sitting on top of that wood buck. Since your bucks are already looking rough, make sure you treat the existing wood with a preservative or at least sand off the loose rot and seal it before you cover it up.

Most of that PVC stuff comes in white, so you'll have to scuff it slightly and use a good exterior bonding primer if you want the tan paint to stick long-term. Some window supply houses sell color-matched aluminum coil wrap that they can bend into a custom shape to cap the buck entirely, which is the higher-end way to do it. But for a DIY fix, the PVC strips are much easier to work with using standard tools. One thing to watch out for is the weep holes. If you install a trim piece along the bottom sill, make sure you aren't blocking the drainage paths on the bottom of the window frame. If you clog those with trim or too much caulk, you'll end up with water backing up into the frame and eventually your house. Leave a tiny gap or notch the trim right where those holes sit.

Does that PVC lattice come in different thicknesses? I'm worried if it's too thick it'll stick out past the window flange and look wierd. I only have a circular saw, so hopefully I can get a clean enough cut without a table saw. Also, for the paint, do I need a specific primer for the vinyl? I've heard some paints can make PVC warp if they're too dark and soak up too much heat. Since I'm in Florida, I'm worried about that tan color causing issues if the sun hits it all afternoon.

If you're worried about the circular saw, just clamp a straight edge or a level to the PVC to use as a guide. It’ll keep your lines crisp and stop the blade from wandering, wich happens fast on thin vinyl. Instead of lattice, look for "PVC stop" or "parting bead." It’s slightly thicker and has a cleaner profile that might fit your gap without any ripping at all. Also, make sure you use stainless steel trim nails. In Florida, even the "weather-resistant" stuff eventually bleeds rust trough the paint. Spending an extra few bucks on stainless prevents those orange streaks from ruining the look later on.

Watch the paint color for sure. If you go too dark with that tan, the heat will make the PVC expand and warp within a month. Look for paint labeled "VinylSafe" or check the LRV rating on the swatch; you ussually want to stay above 55.

Also, check the screen moulding section. It’s usually about 1/4" thick and 3/4" wide, wich is perfect for covering a buck without sticking out too far. It's much easier to handle than big sheets of lattice and usually comes in PVC. If you use a fine-tooth blade on that circular saw, it'll cut like butter without cracking.

If you end up using screen moulding, watch out for 'mushrooming' when you nail it. Standard brads leave a little rim of displaced plastic that looks sloppy once painted. I ussually use white #6 stainless trim screws with the tiny heads and pre-drill the holes just a hair larger than the screw itself. This gives the strip some 'float' room to expand without buckling under the Florida sun. Also, try some PVC cement on your mitered corners instead of just caulking the gap. It chemically welds the joints so they won't pull apart in six months. Just be careful not to get the glue on the face of the trim if you aren't planning on a heavy sanding before paint.