Should I use my GC for a roof replacement to save 3k?

The solar panels are the biggest wild card here. Most dedicated roofing crews won't even touch those; they usally require you to hire a solar company to pull them and then come back to reinstall once the shingles are down. If your GC says his crew can handle the detach and reset themselves, you need to be extremely careful. Solar mounts penetrate the decking and require specific flashing kits to stay watertight over a 20-year span. If a general laborer just lags them back into the rafters without proper sealing, you’re looking at a slow leak that you won't even notice untill your ceiling is sagging.

Then there’s the **manufacturer warranty**. Dedicated roofing companies often have certified status with brands like GAF or CertainTeed. This matters because it allows them to offer an airtight system warranty that covers both materials and labor for 20+ years. A GC typically provides a standard one or two-year labor warranty. If the shingles fail or start blowing off in five years, the manufacturer might deny your claim because the GC didn't follow the very specific nailing patterns or ventilation requirements required for the high-end warranty coverage.

Check the specific material list on both quotes before deciding. Is the GC using 15lb felt paper while the roofer is using a high-quality **synthetic underlayment**? Is there ice and water shield in the valleys and around the chimney? Sometimes that 20% price gap comes from the GC using whatever is on the shelf at the big box store versus a roofer who buys a coordinated system. And if the GC is already doing work for you, he might be lowballing the roof just to keep his crew busy between phases of your renovation. Ask the GC exactly how he plans to handle the solar flashing. If he mentions specific M-1 sealant or Oly-Grip fasteners and knows how to hit the center of the rafters every time, he might be fine. But if he's vague about it, pay the extra $3k for the specialist. That peace of mind is actualy a legal gaurantee that your house stays dry, and $3,000 is alot cheaper than mold remediation and a new ceiling down the road.

I'm just starting to learn about this, but what about the insurance? I read somewhere that roofing is a totally diferent beast for workers' comp and liability. If the GC is mostly doing indoors and ADUs, woud his policy even cover a major roofing claim if something goes wrong? I'd be worried that the $3k savings is just because he doesn't have the high-premium roofing insurance that a specialist has to carry. Is it normal to ask to see their specific insurance papers to make sure they're acutally covered for roof work specifically?

Check your solar contract before letting that GC touch the array. Most solar installers will void your performance and equipment warranty if anyone but a certified solar tech handles the detach and reset. If a panel cracks or an inverter fails later, you're stuck with the bill beacuse an "unauthorized" crew moved them. Also, watch out for the "jack of all trades" trap. A crew that usally does ADUs is used to framing and finish work—roofing is a totally diffrent rhythm. If they aren't dedicated roofers, they often miss things like proper starter strip offset or over-driving nails. I'd pay the extra $3k just to keep that solar warranty intact.

One thing people forget is the cleanup and speed. Dedicated roofing crews are like a pit crew—they will strip the old shingles and have the whole thing dried-in by sunset. If your GC's crew is used to framing ADUs, they might drag it out over three or four days. If a surprise storm hits mid-job, you are in trouble.

Also, ask about the magnetic sweep. Roofers live and die by those to keep nails out of your tires and your dog's paws. GCs usually just have a guy with a broom, wich doesn't cut it when you are pulling 50 squares of old shingles. I would pay the extra just to ensure I am not patching tires for the next year.

Don't forget to check the attic ventilation specs. Most GCs just swap shingles and call it a day, but a specialist will actualy calculate the Net Free Area. If your intake and exhaust are unbalanced, those new shingles will bake from the inside out, and you'll be replacing them again in 10 years regardless of the brand.

Also, ask about the drip edge gauge. I've seen GCs use that flimsy, thin metal that buckles the first time a ladder touches it. A dedicated roofer usually sticks with the heavy-duty 26-gauge stuff. If they're just reusing your old, bent-up flashing to save that 20%, it's definitly not worth the discount.