Is it normal for a contractor to frame a deck roof directly over existing shingles?

Aug 22, 2026 Last reply: 16 hours ago 3 Replies

I’m in the middle of a massive project involving a new metal roof and a wrap-around covered deck, and I'm starting to get a bit nervous about the structural work. The crew is super friendly but they've admitted this 12x24 expansion is the biggest job they’ve ever taken on, and I've already had to point out a 6x6 post that was visibly out of plumb. They are currently framing the roof extension and have the new rafters sitting right on top of the old asphalt shingles where it meets the house. I also noticed some pretty rough notches in the vertical supports and a lot of splintered wood where they joined the ledger. The project manager is really hard to get a hold of and gets defensive if I ask questions about the timeline or the techniques, so I’m trying to figure out if I’m just being paranoid or if this is actually a mess. Shouldn't there be some kind of flashing or specific transition where the new roof framing hits the old structure? It just looks a bit DIY for a profesional job, and since we're already weeks behind the original start date, I don't want to let them keep going if they're building something that won't pass an inspection or hold up in a storm.


Rafters sitting directly on top of old asphalt shingles is a massive red flag and a recipe for rot and structural failure. In any professional roof tie-in, you have to strip the shingles back to the sheathing so the new framing can be properly fastened and flashed. If they just toe-nailed into the existing roof through the shingles, they've created a leak point that will destroy your house's exterior wall and your new deck framing within a few seasons. There should absolutely be metal flashing and a water-tight transition at that junction, not just wood sitting on grit. Notching vertical supports is another area where DIY crews often fail. If those notches are over-cut or sloppy, they've compromised the load-bearing capacity of the post. Structural wood needs clean, precise seats for beams to transfer weight correctly. Combine that with a 6x6 that was visibly out of plumb, and you're looking at a structure that might not even support its own dead load, let alone a heavy snow load or a crowd of people. Stop the work immediately before they put more materials over thier mistakes. You need to call your local building department and ask for a **field inspection** or at least verify that a permit was actually pulled. Most jurisdictions require a footing and framing inspection for a project this size. If they didn't pull permits, they are likely dodging code requirements because they don't know them. The fact that the project manager is getting defensive is a classic sign that he's over his head and knows he can't defend the technical aspects of the build.

Don't let them continue just because you're already weeks behind. It is much cheaper to fire a bad crew now and hire a real carpenter to fix the framing than it is to tear down a finished, leaking roof in two years. This isn't just about aesthetics; it's about the **structural integrity** of your home. If that ledger isn't flashed and bolted correctly, the whole deck could pull away from the house. Get a real pro out there to do a walkthrough and document every code violation before you pay them another dime.

I’ve been building since we used hand saws and galvanized nails, and this makes my teeth ache. Putting rafters over shingles is amateur hour; back in the day, we’d strip to the deck and run a proper sleeper or header to tie it in right. If they can't even get a 6x6 plumb with a level, they sure as heck aren't checking thier loads. Check those notches too—if they overcut the 'meat' of the post, it's junk. I once saw a guy try to shim a sloppy notch with cedar shakes; the whole deck settled three inches by spring. These boys are winging it. Stop the check and get an old-school framer out there to look at those joints.

That sounds like a total nightmare. If you end up firing them and starting over, you need to make sure the next crew uses Simpson Strong-Tie connectors for those post-to-beam transitions. It sounds like they’re just hacking away at the wood, but a few BC40 or AC6 caps whould have solved that notch issue and kept everthing structural. If the ledger is allready looking splintered, I’d bet they aren't using proper DTT2Z tension ties either. Don't let them hide that mess behind trim; get some real hardware in there so your deck doesn't pull away from the house during the first big wind storm.

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