Is it normal for a contractor to refuse to just replace the deck boards?

The contractor isn't trying to upsell you; he's trying to stay out of a courtroom. A ledger board held on only by nails through shake siding is one of the most common causes of deck collapses. Nails have almost zero withdrawal strength compared to the **structural lag screws** or through-bolts required by modern building codes. Over time, the weight of the deck and the movement of people walking on it pulls those nails right out of the house framing, expecially since they're likely rusting inside the cedar shakes. Putting heavy composite boards on top of that structure would actualy make the situation worse. Composite is significantly heavier than cedar, and adding that extra dead load to a frame that's alredy failing is a recipe for disaster. If the 4x4 posts are buried directly in the dirt, they are almost certainly rotting from the inside out where the wood meets the soil. You might not see it from a distance, but that wood is losing its structural integrity every time it rains.

Empty nail holes in joist hangers are another major red flag. Those hangers are designed to transfer the load of the floor joists to the ledger or beams, and they only meet thier rated capacity when every single hole is filled with the correct **connector nails**. Missing fasteners mean the floor system could sheer off under a heavy load, like a grill or a group of people standing in one spot. And those stairs with the split board? That's usually a sign of serious stress or improper attachment at the top. If the stringers aren't properly secured to a solid rim joist, the whole staircase could kick out from under you. Most reputable pros won't touch a 'decking-only' job on a frame like this becasue the moment they drive a single screw into it, they become legally responsible for the entire structure. If it falls down a month later, it's their insurance on the line. It's frustrating to hear, but you're looking at a teardown for safety reasons.

Spot on. That guy actualy saved you from a massive headache down the road. One thing people often overlook is that nailing a ledger over shake siding doesn't just lack strength; it creates a perfect rot pocket. Since you can't properly flash the ledger against the house when it's sitting on top of shakes, moisture gets trapped back there and eats away at your house's rim joist. I'd bet money that when he peels those boards back, he'll find the house framing itself is starting to go. It's way cheaper to fix that now than to rebuild a collapsed deck and a rotted house wall later.

Listen, if you swap cedar for Trex Transcend or TimberTech AZEK, you're looking at a massive weight increase. Those composite boards are heavy—we're talking 2.5 lbs per linear foot easily. Your current frame, with those 4x4s rotting in the mud, will buckle under that dead load. If you're rebuilding, make sure your guy uses Simpson Strong-Tie ABA44 post bases on 12-inch sonotubes. And don't just 'patch' the stairs. Use some GRK RSS structural screws to tie those stringers in properly. A five-figure quote for a full rebuild sucks, but it's cheaper than a lawsuit when your rim joist detaches and the whole thing pancakes.

Since you're looking at a total teardown, you shold honestly just go with TimberTech Advanced PVC. If you're worried about the stairs being a death trap, thier decking is way lighter than capped composite and won't rot like your old cedar. It stays way cooler on the feet too. If you’re going to spend five figures to fix the frame, don't put cheap wood back on top. Go with the Landmark collection; it looks like real wood but you'll never have to worry about splintering or structural weight issues again.

Wow, I am so glad I joined this group! I’m planning my very first DIY build for next spring and reading all this is making me realize how much I have to learn before I start digging.

Since you're dealing with those cedar shakes on the house siding, have you thougt about what color composite whould look best against them? I’m totally obsessed with the dark walnut look but I’m worried it might get way too hot in the sun. Does anyone know if the lighter grey boards acutally stay cool enought to walk on barefoot during the summer?