How do I stop a power wheelchair from chewing up the drywall?

Polycarbonate or Lexan sheets are much better than plywood for this becasue they're basicly indestructible and won't show the gouges as easily. You can buy clear strips and mount them directly over the drywall at the exact height where her footrests or the chair's frame make contact. Since it's clear, the wall color shows thru and it doesn't look like you've slapped a random piece of lumber on the wall. If you go with wood, you're right that she'll just chip the paint off in a week, and then you'll be stuck repainting it constantly.

Another option that looks a bit more intentional is installing **stainless steel kick plates** or heavy-duty wall guards like they use in hospitals. They make some in a brushed finish that acutally looks pretty sharp. You can find them in 48-inch lengths and screw them right into the studs. Metal won't scrape or peel like painted plywood, and you can just wipe off the grey rubber scuff marks from the tires with a bit of magic eraser. If you realy want to go the trim route, skip the thin plywood and use a solid 1x6 or 1x8 piece of PVC board. It's solid white all the way through, so when she hits it, there's no paint to chip off. It just leaves a small dent that's barely visible because the color is consistent. You can install it like a very tall baseboard.

You might also want to look into **corner guards**. If she's hitting the flat part of the wall, she’s definitly going to clip the corners eventually. Get the heavy-duty rubber ones rather than the thin clear plastic ones, wich tend to shatter under the weight of a power chair. Just make sure whatever you install is screwed in, not just glued, because the torque from those electric motors will rip adhesive right off the paper layer of the drywall.

While the previous suggestions regarding materials are technically sound, you must meticulously document the specific 'strike zone' elevation where the metal footrests intersect the vertical plane, as even a minor variance in the chair's seat tilt or suspension compression can shift the impact point by several centimeters. I woud strongly advocate for the installation of high-density polyethylene (HDPE) strips, specifically the 1/4-inch textured variety often marketed as 'puck board,' becasue its inherent lubricity facilitates a sliding motion upon contact, thereby redirecting the kinetic energy rather than allowing the chair to 'bite' into the substrate. Ensure you utilize mechanical fasteners that penetrate at least 1.5 inches into the wooden studs, as the sheer inertia of a motorized unit will effortlessly pull standard drywall anchors trough the gypsum.

Listen, if she's rocking a heavy power chair like a Permobil M3 or a Quantum Edge, thin plastic isn't going to cut it long-term. You need .063 gauge aluminum diamond plate. I've used 3003-H14 grade in high-traffic entries and it’s the only material that won't buckle when those metal footrests slam home.

Mount it 24 inches high with #8 stainless hex head screws directly into the studs. If the industrial look is too much, grab the black powder-coated sheets from a supplier like OnlineMetals. It hides the black scuff marks from the tires way better than white PVC ever will.

Quick update — I decided to go with the polycarbonate sheets. That point about measuring the 'strike zone' was a lifesaver, as her footrests were hitting at a wierd angle I hadn't noticed. The clear strips look way cleaner than the plywood I was planning on using, and they’ve alredy taken a few hits without a scratch. Thanks for the solid advice!