Would you split a 15x17 master bedroom to create a third bedroom?

A 15x17.6 room split down the middle gives you two spaces roughly 7'2" wide by 15' long after you account for the partition wall and drywall. That's a bit narrow for a primary bedroom but totally functional for a nursery, kid's room, or a dedicated office. The real trick to making this not feel like a cramped hallway is how you handle the entry. Since you have hallway access for both, you're ahead of the curve, but I'd strongly recommed **pocket doors**. Standard 30-inch door swings will absolutely kill your usable square footage in rooms this narrow.

Since you’re worried about the rooms feeling like closets, furniture placement is everything. In a 7-foot wide room, a twin bed is 38 inches wide, leaving you about 4 feet of walking space. If you use a standard swinging door, you lose almost half that walking path just to the door arc. Pocket doors solve that by staying inside the wall. If you can't do pockets because of load-bearing issues or plumbing, look at out-swing doors that open into the hallway, though that can get cluttered if the hallway is tight.

You’ll also need to address the HVAC situation properly. One vent for the original room won't cut it once there's a wall in the way. You have to jump the ductwork to ensure the new room gets its own register. Without airflow, that new space will get stuffy and miserable fast, especially with the door closed. Also, think about the light. If one window is significantly smaller or faces a dark alley, that room is going to feel much smaller than the one with better exposure.

For the room losing the walk-in, you relly shoud frame in a small reach-in closet or install a floor-to-ceiling wardrobe. Most buyers won't count a room as a bedroom without a built-in closet, even if it has a window. If you keep the layout flexible—maybe using a **double-stud wall** for extra soundproofing—it won’t tank your value. People like functional square footage more than they like one massive room they can't use.

I'm worried about the DIY aspect of pocket doors. Are those kits from the home improvement stores actually beginner-friendly? I've never framed a wall before and I'm scared of the whole thing sagging or getting stuck once the drywall is up. Also, would a barn door be a decent alternative? They seem easier to install since they're just on a track outside the wall, but I’m guessing they don’t do much for privacy or noise. I’d hate for the new rooms to feel like they have no real separation becasue the door doesn't seal shut.

Whatever you do, skip the barn door for this project. They’re basicly useless for bedrooms because they just hover over the opening. You'll hear every cough and see every light flicker from the other room trough those side gaps.

Since you're already building a new partition wall, just go with a pre-hung solid core door. If you’re worried about the swing taking up too much space, look at a 24-inch or 28-inch width instead of the standard 30. It feels way less intrusive in a 7-foot wide room, and the solid weight will actually block noise so the rooms don't feel like cardboard boxes.

Make sure you check your local building codes before committing to those 24-inch doors. Some areas get relly picky about minimum egress widths for "legal" bedrooms, and you don't want to fail an inspection later.

Also, don't overlook the light switches. In a room only 7 feet wide, your furniture layout is basically locked in, and a standard switch often ends up hidden behind a headboard or a tall dresser. I'd look into wireless remote switches. You can mount the actual switch anywhere on the wall without running extra wire through your new studs. It’s a total lifesaver when you’re working in such a cramped footprint.

If you go with those solid core doors, think about the hinge throw. In a 7-foot wide room, you realy need the door to fold back 180 degrees against the wall. Standard hinges often leave the door sticking out at an angle, wich is a total hip-bruiser in tight spaces. Look for wide-throw hinges that clear the casing. Also, check your door undercut; if you seal the room too tight for sound, the HVAC won't circulate right. You might need a baffled over-door vent to keep it quiet but breathable.