We have a HikVision NVR with three ColorVu PoE cameras.
We'll be moving house sometime soon and I'm wondering if people usually take their systems with them to the new house or leave them for the new owners.
All told, including installation, it cost us nearly a grand so I'm inclined to take everything with us, but is that a done thing or do folks leave them in?
When I bought our house the previous owners took everything, every curtain, lampshade the lot! I wasn't bothered, they'd have been changed anyway but I thought it was a bit odd.
The house was xxxx9, they wouldn't budge on the asking price and I really wanted it so I conceded to pay full but mistakenly applied for a mortgage of xxxx5. The bloke called me out on this so I said if he wanted me dip in my pocket and give him 4 quid he was welcome to it!
To this day he may be the tightest and most sullen #### i've ever encountered.
Shit and derision, that IS tight lol
I would make up a new cheaper system using a small computer (using the free Contacam program) and individual modern cameras. Buying ready made is an expensive way to go.
What have you put on the various enquiry forms you have had to fill out?
I've wondered about CCTV for a while but not done anything about it. I'd want one by the (remote) gate, and a couple round the outside of the house. What are the current recommendations?
+1
AIUI you have to make a list of what you're taking and what you're leaving (like light bulbs, lamp shades, carpets etc.). So it's up to you what you take or leave, as long as you list it appropriately.
Offer it for £750 and say it would cost £1,500 to replace. It isn't new but you'd replace it with new, so you can afford to drop a bit.
Bill
+1. If I were the new person I'd rip it all out(*) so it's worth more to you than it is to me, but by doing that you give people the option.
That assumes you actually want to keep it in the next place, of course - if not you might adjust the prices accordingly.
Theo
(*) keeping the cabling if it was usefully located and not unsightly, but sell on the units
When I bought this house in 1993, they didn't even leave lightbulbs or curtain rails
Its probably a fair bet that many owners would not think to have it installed. So it does not seem unreasonable to take it with you.
(it does depend on the house itself though - with a very high end property with an extensive security and surveillance system built in, it might seem odd taking some of it with you)
You will need to disclose what you are taking and leaving on the sellers forms - although since they are often based on generic lists they may not include CCTV by default.
Make it clear with the buyers what you are taking and what you are leaving. Perhspa check with the estate agent as to what is usual.
The latest form TA10 I have (4th edition, 2020) includes burglar alarm but not CCTV. But it does of course require - and provide room for - sellers to write in other fittings and contents, indicating if they are included or excluded. If they are not listed as excluded but are taken then the buyer could claim their value. I'll not venture a view on whether they'd be likely to pursue a claim to court: too many variables.
When I was selling my house, it had a built-in dishwasher (with a plain door that matched the rest of the kitchen units, installed by the builder). I put on my estate agent form that I'd be leaving the dishwasher. A few days before we completed, it failed - the element tripped the house RCD every time it got to a certain place in the program. I asked my solicitor to contact the buyer's solicitor to see if this mattered to the buyer: if he was planning to replace it anyway, it didn't matter whether or not the built-in one worked. He flatly refused to do this: "if you've said on your form that you are leaving a (working) dishwasher, that is what you must do". So I contacted the estate agent directly and explained the situation. They checked with the buyer and came back to say that it didn't matter: they were planning to replace it with their own that they would be bringing with them. I gave my solicitor a bollocking for this: if I'd taken his word, I'd have paid a large call-out and repair bill to have the dishwasher repaired when it didn't need to be. He couldn't understand my concern and actually said "if it didn't work, why did you say that you'd be leaving a working machine?" Because it *was* working (and I'd no reason to suspect that it might fail) when I filled in the form. Circumstances change, but he couldn't appreciate that. Not a solicitor I'd use again!
I've just dug out the document I left for our buyers when we moved three years ago.
Here's an extract, (I didn't keep copies of my four RF wiring sketches)*_Appliance Instructions_*
Various are in kitchen drawer.
*_Fridge and Freezer_*We defrosted them this week, and they are running now. The garage one is not on, but is ready to go. There’s a socket on the wall behindit at the top.
*_Water Stop Cock_*In the cupboard under the boiler, down the left hand side of the water softener
*_Water Softener_*Takes two salt blocks, we’ve left a pack of two next to it. Consumption of salt varies, You will probably get through a pack in 3-4 weeks.
*_Drinking Tap_*This is the small tap on the left hand side of the sink, and is fed pre-water softener
*_Shower Pump_*This is in the airing cupboard it’s plugged in via an RCB, if there’s a loss of power etc, the RCB needs to be reset before the pump works. The pump has more than enough capacity to provide two showers simultaneously.
*_Central Heating and Hot Water_*Controller in Kitchen, room thermostat in Hall. We’ve left the hot water on, so you have some straight away.
*_Water Meter_*Under plastic flap where the tarmac driveway meets the gravel section.*__*
_Our Closing Water Reading…………_
*_Electricity and Gas Meters_*In cabinets in wall at side of house
_Our Closing Electric Reading………._
_Our Closing Gas Reading……….._
*_Electrical Consumer Unit_*On wall above oven
*_Special Spare Bulbs and lamps etc_*In kitchen drawer
*_Keys_*We’ve left keys in the appropriate locks. Extra keys, and the Meter Cabinet key is in the key box next to the back door. Front door keys are with this note, as are the garage keys.
*_Underfloor Conservatory Heating_*See the instructions for the wall timer in the drawer. The red light indicates when power is available, the physical switch supplies power. In other words if the switch is off, and the red light is on, nothing is getting to the heater. The heater load is 1.7 kW. The timer setting is rather non intuitive, but you can toggle its state by use of the square button. It’s set to come on at 7am ish, and off at 10pm ish. Naturally at present it is ‘physically’ set off, but you will notice the light is on.
*_TV Aerial and satellite_*See four attached sketches, I’ve also labelled up each cable, I hope it all makes sense to you, and/or someone else. I’ve left the power supply for the loft booster for you in the living room, this must remain on in order to get a signal.
DAB/FM aerial, this feeds the conservatory and the ‘TV Corner’
*_Phone Sockets _*The master BT socket is in the study, to the left of the window. The lead plugged in, goes on to feed the extension sockets around the house. The master socket has a built in broadband filter, so no filters are required for phones in any other socket, but this does mean your broadband router will only work in this socket (using the smaller socket in the top half)
Extension phone sockets are situated:-
Other corner of study
TV corner of living room
Other corner of living room
Kitchen worktop
Master bedroom
*_CAT 5/Ethernet Sockets_*There are tie lines from the study wall box to the Living room, and the two lad’s bedrooms, they were a good idea in 2000, but not so much now with WiFi !, however you may find the pair running from the study to the living room useful for hard wiring your TV to your router.
*_Audio Phono Tie Lines_*Another relic from the 2000s, but these run between the studio, living room, and conservatory
The brown/clear cables are rear speaker feeds from the TV corner
*_Porch Lamp_*The timer on the wall controls this. The bulb itself has photoswitch built in, so it won’t come on if energised in daylight etc. The wall switch next to the timer overrides the timer. Instructions in drawer
AIUI you are required to leave the fittings specified in the contract in working order, allowing for reasonable wear and tear between exchange and completion. I'd argue that an electrical fault like that on an d/w more than a few years old is wear and tear (even though its effect is a binary shift from "working" to "not working").
In my house the cameras are mounted on the soffits, so it would be an effort to get them down, but I could get the DVR out of the roof space. On the other hand, if the new place didn't have a system I'd probably want to install something more up to date than the system I have at present.
Hmm. I made a point of running CAT5e out to my garden office even though it's in WiFi range of the house. WiFi isn't gigabit capable.
Andy
Oh, I've done that to the shed at the bottom of the garden (and flood wired all the rooms back to a 24 way patch and switch). Far too tempting not to have done, as I had the luxury of totally gutting and replacing all the internal walls (and just about everything else) :-)
802.11ax, with 160MHz channels and 1024QAM encoding is ... theoretically
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