... or efficient?
(using a jointer to taper legs)
... or efficient?
(using a jointer to taper legs)
Looks like a viable technique. I don't see anything unsafe with his *method.* However, as I've said so many times before, those stupid birds-mouth push sticks are very UNsafe. I cringe when I see him using them for doing that. The whole procedure would go much more smoothly and safely if he'd only use a shoe-style push block.
Greg Guarino wrote in news:n0ar50$8t6$1@dont- email.me:
Well, I wouldn't do it that way (*), but it don't know it looks especially unsafe. You'd want to be very careful of kickback on the first cut (3/8th is a lot on a jointer), and when it's rocked up on end for the second cut it looks kind of difficult to control, but with practice it doesn't look worse than many other machining operations.
(* I'd usually cut them on the bandsaw, and clean up with a hand plane).
John
I can't stand Glen Huey. He always shows the most unsafe methods of working.
A jointer can be used to tape legs. Would I do it the way he did? Absolutely now. I would put the piece up on the outfeed in the same spot each time and work from there. It self tapers. His way is dangerous.
I can show you some pics of a book that I have that he does some unbelievable stupid methods of work.
He should not be teaching others how to do things.
it looks strange with those sticks
if it feels unsafe then it probably is i guess he is comfortable doing it that way the process seems slow though did he go slower for the camera
Not terribly _un_safe, no, altho I'd not do that significant a taper wholly with the jointer and certainly not in as large a bite (particularly in hardwood which would likely be the target for most furniture legs).
As another said, I'd use the "start in the middle on the outfeed table" technique for small tapers; as another said that much of a taper would (should imo) be cut on the bandsaw and cleaned up either as that poster said w/ handplane or I often do use one or two quick _very_ light passes over the jointer instead...
Suit yourself on the style of pushstick; I've no real preference there, but don't see any drastic problem with the traditional (probably 'cuz that's what was raised with, if nothing else..)
Looks about as safe as any other procedure using shrp edged and/or power tools. - and about the simplest way to do the job -a lot more foolproof than using a taper jig on a table saw or band saw, and no planing required to get a smooth finish when you are done.
Repeatability is also excellent - all your legs will be virtually identical - pretty hard to accomplish with the bandsaw and hand plane.
-MIKE- wrote in news:n0b1rn$50e$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Actually, since he needs to rock the part back on end for the second cut, the bird's mouth stick might be better for that. It's kind of an unusual application to want to raise the leading edge of the work, usually you're trying to force the leading edge down.
John
As far as I can tell, the reason he makes the first notch on the back side, is so the piece can move forward on two stable points. A shoe push block would be fine in doing that.
Absolutely safe, if a bit tricky and fussy on setup.
Back in December, at the request of a client, I put tapered legs on a built-in extension of a kitchen peninsula.
The leg size she wanted was simply too big to cut on a 10" table saw with tapering jig. I used the exact same method in your video above to do the leg tapers on the jointer:
Bandsaw needs no jig, simply freehand to the line and clean it up.
And, repeatability is near trivial...for first step, one would gang the work pieces.
so I am not sure it assures repeatability more so than a tablesaw. With the tablesaw, when you are done you can take a swipe on the jointer. It's fully supported all the way through. I truly dislike Glen's methods. Taking a point (the first few passes on two points) and moving it to a spinning blade is asking for trouble. We're not talking a tablesaw.
I believe that it might actually push back the point and slap the front down to the table. But those are my beliefs. I just posted something from the table book in the binaries. It show's another Glen moment.
What is the problem. He is a pro or semi-pro and stated over and over NOT to do this without the guard. He was showing the cutter do its thing.
Mart> ... or efficient?
He's a pro, only in that someone paid him to write. He might have nice stuff, I don't know. But I always found his methods to be wreckless for the in-experienced, or even the avid woodworker.
To make 400 of them????? Or even 40?
You mean NORM in his early years ? Now that was nothing to behold!
He has cleaned up his act after having problems.
Using a table saw can be and often is just as tricky and dangerous.
A high speed blade with hook teeth ? and someone feeds stock into it.
Cutting joints on a table saw can be nasty.
Mart> >> What is the problem.
I've done similar in the past with no issues.
Certainly more efficient and reproducible than the one-at-a-time of the demo, yes. But, these aren't production woodworking groups; it is
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3/8" climb cuts are not my speed.To many other ways to do the job.
Lew
The big question, why in the world do it on a jointer. It would be so much easier and so much faster to do on a table saw.
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