I have recently acquired a Skill 77 worm drive. I realize that their is the
diamond shaped punch out on the blade that is specific for worm drive
arbours. My question is that is it ok to use thin kerf blades or is it
better to stick with the regular thickness blades in a worm drive. I have
done a Google search and read the other posts on worm drives. I will be
using the saw for the usual purposes of cutting 2X lumber as well as taking
down sheet goods to more manageable sizes.
My question is why would you want to use a thin kerf blade? There are
usually one of two reasons people use thin kerfs: conserve material,
reduce draw on underpowered motor.
Now I've never heard of anyone accusing a 77 of being underpowered and
you say below that you're going to be cutting 2x lumber which doesn't
seem to be a "conserving material" issue. Even rough cutting sheet
goods doesn't cover either category.
So, my question is why would you want to use a thin kerf blade?
Tony, I use the Marathon blade in all of my '77s'. Its a carbide tipped
inexpensive blade that holds up very well for framing work. Most framers
around here use the same.
When I use it to reduce sheet goods, (sheeting, flooring, ect.) it works
fine. However, in the rare case I use the saw to reduce cabinet grade
plywood, I will cut long and the trip accurately with the table saw.
No reason you can't use a TK blade, but there's no good reason to use one
either. Last time mine was let out I was ripping the natural edges of wet
silver maple that was milled to 9/4" thick. The finished pile was 1100 bd ft
and the 77 never missed a beat. Thatbwas with a cheap-assed $4.00 carbide
combo- blade (new).
"Tony Mo" < snipped-for-privacy@CRAPsympatico.ca> wrote in message
the skil77 has one of the most powerful motors available in a handheld
saw. the main point of a thin kerf blade is that it takes less power
to run them. they also cost more. thicker blades run truer and last
longer. I'd say don't waste your money.
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