Which glue to use?

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Ah so, it was *you* that led the research team that was endeavoring to isolate, in =un-bound= form, the 4h quark[1].
I should have known, when, despite the fact that the project had a fancy academic name, it was almost always referred to as "the search for the naked 'bottom'".
--
[1] for those who's particle physics knowledge is deficient, there are
6 'flavor's of quarks "up','down","top", "bottom", "strange", and
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On Aug 3, 1:13 pm, snipped-for-privacy@tb.org wrote:

Sigh. In future, please give complete information so we're not wasting people's time guessing what you're trying to do, okay?
You can use anything for that application. Literally - any adhesive would work.
Latex caulk is probably the easiest all the way around. Silicone caulk is more expensive and presents problems if you're trying to paint over it.
R
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------------------------------------ Good quality double backed tape.
Lew
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Liquid nails ?
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net "Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Originator & Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com /
On 8/3/2010 12:13 PM, snipped-for-privacy@tb.org wrote:

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-------------------------------------- SLOW curing laminating epoxy thickened to the consistency of runny catsup with micro-balloons.
May be total overkill for the application, but it will certainly get the job done.
Lew
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Why slow curing?
R
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"RicodJour" wrote:
Why slow curing? ----------------------------------- Slow curing laminating resin insures long pot life (30 Min) and reduces possible exothermic heat build up problems that can happen with faster epoxies.
Lew
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Right. Thanks.
R
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snipped-for-privacy@tb.org wrote in

How about applying an additional top coat on each surface and sticking them together wet? I'm not sure it would work, but it seems sometimes the finish-to-finish joints are some of the toughest to get apart.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

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On Aug 3, 9:39 pm, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

Interesting idea. I think that there'd be a problem with working time, but the shellac primer would certainly act as an adhesive. If the clapboard pieces lay flat on the sheathing of the house, it'd work, but if they're like regular clapboard, with only a little bit overlapping the course below, and a little bit touching the sheathing, I don't think there'd be much surface area and the bond would be pretty weak. That's why I suggested latex caulk - it'd fill gaps.
R
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On Tue, 3 Aug 2010 18:55:04 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour

It's siding on a doll house for cry-eye. He could use a hot glue gun or even library paste. Elmers Glue-all or Titebond would be fine. Ther is no need to make this complicated.
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On Wed, 04 Aug 2010 06:23:16 -0400, salty wrote:

One of the glues I've found handy for modeling is Alenes Extra Tacky. That should work great for a dollhouse, especially the smaller pieces.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

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Puckdropper wrote:

That works fine with lacquer, at least, done it numerous times.
--

dadiOH
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