Wine cellar door question

I should add that the price difference is immaterial and the core is FSC certified laminated veneer lumber (LVL) core not MDF.

If the door is sealed on all six sides either one will do just fine.

Exterior doors should have no problem, pick the one you like best, if it were I, I'd go for the solid mahogany, just because...

ne cellar. =A0The door choices are mindboggling but I have

I made mine out of lauan door skins (1/8") sandwiching a extruded polystyrene core (blue Styrofoam) and a western red cedar 2X2 frame. More insulation =3D better

But living int he Yukon, the municipal water comes in at 2-4 degrees Celsius, so I run all my water through radiators on the wine cellar ceiling. Keeps it at 10-12 degrees all year round.

Luigi

"Luigi Zanasi" wrote

But living int he Yukon, the municipal water comes in at 2-4 degrees Celsius, so I run all my water through radiators on the wine cellar ceiling. Keeps it at 10-12 degrees all year round.

Luigi

No, not really. Unless the water is significantly acidic, the amount of lead that leaches into it from leaded solder is really rather low, and allowing the tap to run for 30 to 60 seconds before filling one's glass eliminates nearly all of it.

What, you think he's running it through *automobile* radiators?? Could be, but I rather doubt it. More likely, he's using normal residential radiators, which are typically made of cast iron.

Or copper/aluminum fin tube baseboard radiators - probably the easiest way to have an in-line water heat exchanger hung from a ceiling.

Condensation wouldn't become an issue?

It's a wine cellar. Dank and dripping ceilings are a feature. ;)

I have no experience with them, so I can't comment on how an inline radiator would work out and how much condensation. A dehumidifier?

I was addressing my empathetic aching back's issue with hoisting a surplus cast iron radiator and suspending it from the ceiling. I see a bunch of downside, and not much upside with going cast iron.

A fan controlled by a humidistat would be a better choice. Dehumidifiers put out a fair amount of heat, and unless there's a way to exhaust that from the room, it would likely defeat the purpose of using a water-chilled radiator.

And of course if the ambient humidity isn't very high to begin with, condensation isn't much of an issue.

So use a drywall hoist. Actually, the downside is also the upside: lots of mass there. Once it's chilled, it's going to *stay* chilled.

That's it. & soldered using lead-free solder by my plumber.

Luigi

It did on the way to the cellar. It dripped all over the suspended ceiling. But pipe insulation fixed that.

Luigi

Good solution. Is there much condensation?

No condensation in the wine cellar itself, since it's already cool & we generally have low ambient humidity (I do live in Canada's driest city).

The thermal mass is supplied by the vino itself. The cellar is 4 feet by 10 feet by 8' high & generally holds three to five 54-litre (15 gallons, Doug) demijohns as well as a similar amount of bottled stuff. :-)

Luigi

Like I told Rob, only on the pipes leading to the cellar. That issue was solved using regular foam pipe insulation, not after ruining a number of ceiling tiles.

The wine cellar itself is drier than I would like, but that's not a serious issue. (yes I did try a humidifier which eventually crapped out & I didn't bother to replace it.

Luigi

Luigi

You make your own, then? How come I haven't ever seen you over at rec.crafts.winemaking?

I put a truck radiator in a garage window once (late 60's) and ran tapwater through it and used a box fan to blow the cool air into the garage. After a few minutes it started to cool off AND pretty much 'rain' in the garage ruining one of my Bardot posters. At first I thought the old rad had a leak in it.

Yes you have.

Luigi

I mostly lurk there now.