Hello, I want to adhere, face to face, two pieces of mdf. Both have been primed with Zinsser shellac based, white pigmented primer. Which adhesive would be appropriate for this job? Thanks. TB
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13 years ago
Which glue to use?
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13 years ago
The shellac has pretty much ruled out any adhesive which needs an absorptive surface, I'd suggest either epoxy, or if strength isn't crucial, silicone.
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13 years ago
Screws.
Elmer's white glue is as good as any for what you are doing. In reality, you are adhering primer to primer.
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13 years ago
What's the application, what sort of environment will it be in, and what sort of loading will the bond experience?
R- Vote on answer
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13 years ago
Polyurethane glues such as PL400 that come in tubes (NOT Gorilla glue) and are solvent based will penetrate the shellac if properly applied.
Robert
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13 years ago
Yup. Although pretty drastic, that will work. PL 600 is a candidate too. I was trying to be gentle, not knowing what was going on here.
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13 years ago
Wait..... don't Polyurethane glues need moisture?
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13 years ago
What's the application, what sort of environment will it be in, and what sort of loading will the bond experience?
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13 years ago
-------------------------------------- SLOW curing laminating epoxy thickened to the consistency of runny catsup with micro-balloons.
May be total overkill for the application, but it will certainly get the job done.
Lew
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13 years ago
Why slow curing?
R- Vote on answer
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13 years ago
Right. The primer could always be sanded off at the contact area. Then any glue would do.
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13 years ago
Not for the _tube_ stuff. While it has polyurethane resins in it, it isn't using the same carriers or solvents as the Gorilla stuff.
The poly will dry (as you know) to a super hard, dense plastic with no air or water. It kicks off when it leaves the tube due to its exposure to air.
Woe be to the one that follows me to remove the tempered white finished masonite beadboard wainscot that is popular now. I glue it with tube poly and hide the brads in the bead grooves. It penetrates the hard masonite easily, and goes right through many coats of paint to adhere.
Several years after completing a kitchen remodel, I was called for cabinet repairs due to water leaks. I had to cut out the pieces I glued with that stuff as it destroyed everything that I glued with it. (Excellent!)
I like the stuff as it is impervious to just about everything that affects other glues.
Robert
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13 years ago
My thoughts.
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13 years ago
It's a kids dollhouse. I need to glue milled clapboard pieces made of mdf to the sides of the house, also made of mdf.
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13 years ago
sillicon
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13 years ago
silicone might be easier.
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13 years ago
Sigh. In future, please give complete information so we're not wasting people's time guessing what you're trying to do, okay?
You can use anything for that application. Literally - any adhesive would work.
Latex caulk is probably the easiest all the way around. Silicone caulk is more expensive and presents problems if you're trying to paint over it.
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13 years ago
Why slow curing?
----------------------------------- Slow curing laminating resin insures long pot life (30 Min) and reduces possible exothermic heat build up problems that can happen with faster epoxies.
Lew
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13 years ago
Right. Thanks.
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13 years ago
Almost every PE I know begins onsite conversations with "PL..."