What to with all those old blades?

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For my circular saws and table saws I have a bunch of old (used, not sharp) 7.25" and 10" carbide tipped blades I've accumulated over the years. Blades are so much improved and cheap now days so its hard to justify to have it professionally resharpen. I see you could make clocks out of those blades, but I don't need any more clocks. One other thing I could do with it is use it with the rebars in a future concrete pour. I've resharpen some of it by hand but as I said new blades are so cheap now so why bother. What have you guys done with old blades other than toss it with the trash?
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Cheap?? Where do you buy yours?
The last 10" blade I bought was $70 (CMT)..

Not at $70 a blade.

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How much does it cost to get a blade sharpened. I can't imagine anyone doing anything for less than $40-50.
I don't even bother to sharpen chan saw chains. They are $15-20
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wrote:

Not so. Here is a company that does it for 21 cents a tooth. My blade has 40 teeth. $8.50 for resharpening.
http://www.dynamic-saw-blade-sharpening.com/sawblades.html

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GFretwell wrote but didn't archive: snip> I don't even bother to sharpen chan saw chains. They are $15-20
But I think a sharpening is cheaper than that. Tom
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I hear some part of the country sharpening is about $6 but where I am its around $12 for an 18" chain and a 2 week turn around time from my local shop. No thanks, I"I'll do it myself, takes only about 5-10 minutes with a hand file and if the chain is really bad like after eating a nail or some rocks I clean it up on my chain saw grinder. HD had a fire sale a few months ago for chain/bar combos for $10 so now I don't need to sharpen my chains for the next couple of years - I clean out two stores. The chain was around $24 and the bar around $30 but the funny thing was no one was buying it.
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wrote:

Hmmmm... maybe I want to follow you around the woods for a day.
--

-Mike-
snipped-for-privacy@alltel.net
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Doesn't cost that much where I live. 10 inch steel is about $10, carbide is about $14 to sharpen a 40-60 tooth blade. Excellent shop, excellent job.
I am exceedingly slow and it takes me about 15 minutes to sharpen a chain saw. About half of that time is putting the blade in my vise and attaching the sharpening jig. I get a better sharpening when I use the jig. I use to use just a flat guide which attaches to the file, then it took me about 12 minutes. I guy that does this as a living can file the teeth in about 4 minutes without any guide.
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SNIP For my circular saws and table saws I have a bunch of old (used, not sharp) 7.25" and 10" carbide tipped blades I've accumulated over the years. Blades are so much improved and cheap now days so its hard to justify to have it professionally resharpen
Heck, there VINTAGE!!! Put em on ebay and reap the rewards. Prolly be able to pay for a WWII or two. :-)
ANOTHER SNIP How much does it cost to get a blade sharpened. I can't imagine anyone doing anything for less than $40-50.
Spoiled here. Took awhile to find him cause he has no website, phone listing, or ad in Fine Woodworking, but an old codger I know does a great job on my blades for like $.10 per tooth. I usually tip him cause I feel guilty dropping off 4-5 blades and getting them the next day for $20... Do some networking (read buy beers) with some good finish carpenters and I'm sure if you're nice enough they will give you the name of their guy.
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You think you're spoiled? I just have my husband sharpen my blades. He used to own/operate his own sharpening business and still has all his equipment. The only reason he shut it down was because certain construction and cabinetry companies never paid regularly. He was so good and so inexpensive that whenever we see one of his old customers around town they beg him to start it up again. So I guess that's my <Neener, Neener> :)
As far as sharpening versus buying a new blade, finding a company that sharpens correctly for a good price is a must. One of my DH's competitors charged more than he did and used trainees for the work. A lot of cabinet people would complain that the bevel was off so bad that the blade would just tear up the wood. Also, you can only sharpen a blade so often before there isn't enough metal left to sharpen. If you need to replace the teeth, that can start costing more. However, I'd look around and see if you can find a company who'd do it for a reasonable price. The few around here charge cents-per-blade so you'll probably find the same standard pricing. Test them on one blade and see how it turns out.
My sugestion for other uses... Make an elaborate sculpture of the inner workings of a machine. Name it something fancy like "Deus ex machina". Sell it for tons of money. *L*
Good Luck, Jen
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Perhaps there's still enough demand that it could be a viable business - with one major change: full payment on pickup, no exceptions. If the item(s) are not retrieved within 60 days, then your husband can sell them to recoup costs. Implement a receipt system with a brief legal release that all sign upon drop-off.

I assume you really meant cents per tooth? Over the last few years I've always paid about 15 - 20 cents per tooth - perhaps if your DH really was charging cents per tooth (my interpretation is 7-8 cents or less) then he may not have had enough income to really make it work.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
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You

You are right, it is/was cents per tooth. I typed it wrong. :) I didn't mean that he was charging 7-8 cents or less, I just meant that it wasn't $/tooth or something. I forget what he actually charged, but it was considerably less than the competition. He tried instituting the payment on pick-up deal, warning people ahead of time, but too many people still wouldn't pay. He ended up keeping several blades, making his customers angry (even though he said that he'd give them the blades the minute they paid and those blades sat for months before he closed down the business.) There are just too many companies in our area who float lots of their bills. Thanks for the suggestion though. :)
~Jen
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Jennifer Juniper wrote:

What kind of machine did he use?
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You must buy your blades at HD or Menards or Lowes.
My "quality" blades are freuds. I use them for "real" woodworking. For toobafours and other carpentery work, I used the cheap ones, mostly in my circular and miter saws. My freuds cost me about $50-60 each at woodworking shows. My cheapies cost me 8-15 bucks at menards.
You could trying making a set of cymbals out of them. I've heard of some people cutting them up and using them for various cutting/carving tools.
John
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I used those cheapo blades when i first started out in the hobbie and bought my first real blade (CMT) and I couldn't believe the difference in the cut. I was blown away. I almost don't need the jointer after ripping anymore. Sometimes I have to look really hard at the board to determine which side I just ripped.
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I often glue up straight from the table saw...and I don't have a big-buck saw like a lot of you guys in here. A good blade and I make sure I'm dead-nuts vertical to the table.
I want a jointer, down the road a ways, for other things, but I can live without one just fine.
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wrote:

I don't have a big buck saw either :) (check out my cheap saw at link below) or a big buck fence for that matter, but boy does a "good" quality blade make a HUGE difference.
http://home.triad.rr.com/brianmelissa/woodworking_frames.htm
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Nice web page; I like the way you did the various hot spots.
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Thank you.

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I like the bird feeder - what wood did you use?
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