What saw blades do you use?

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Larry Blanchard | 2010-01-02 | 12:20:05 PM wrote:

Third problem: My contractor table saw has measurement guides on both sides of the blade. If I put use a thin-kerf blade, measurements will be off by about 1/32 inch--or not, depending on which side of the blade I put my fence.
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Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
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On Sun, 03 Jan 2010 00:21:26 +0000, SteveBell wrote:

Agreed. But I use blade stiffeners on all my blades, so none of them match the measures. As long as I know the offset, it's no big deal.
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Hoosierpopi wrote:

http://www.rockler.com/articles/display_article.cfm?story_idr&cookietest=1
More... http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=types+of+saw+blades&aq=2&aqi=g10&oq=types+of+saw&fp 6c7832dbb01be6
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dadiOH
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Thanks for these links!
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wrote:

I'd disagree here for a couple reasons.
ATBR (or rip blade) gives a flat bottom kerf. I sometimes make candle lanterns, and prefer the flat bottom in the groove to hold the glass. Also makes a flatter bottom when nibbling out a tennon.
I don't own a MS, and have never used one, so cannot comment if the following applies to them or not.. Using a blade with negative hook in the RAS makes a huge difference in how aggressive the RAS is when cross cutting a board. In my younger days my first cut with a RAS scared the living shit out of me. I thought that sucker was going to eat my right arm before I could get it under control. I eventually got some training/advice, did a lot of reading and tried a negative hook blade. Made a huge difference in safety. In the last year I acquired a Forrest WW-I (driveby - $60 new on closeout at The Cutting Edge) for the RAS and have never regretted it.
If you must use a strong hook angle blade on a RAS, I suggest you pull the blade all the way out, position the board against the fence, then push the blade into the board to make the cut. That forces the board and cutter head toward the fence, rather than letting the RAS monster loose to try to climb over the board and eat your right arm. BTDT, have the stained undies to prove it.
BTW, I use a Freud SD209 (??-too cool this morning to go look it up, but the cheap - $95ish - Freud dado set) for dados. I bought it used, and have had it about 4 years. Love it. Nice flat bottom groove. I liked it so much I bought one for my son last summer.
This has been a good thread so far.
Regards, Roy
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On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 20:54:05 -0500, SBH wrote:

In my table saw I use a HF 50 tooth carbide blade. Cuts straight, smooth on both rip and crosscut and is less than $20.00 I could get it sharpened, but why?
Deb
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On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 18:10:05 -0600, the infamous "Dr. Deb"

Dina has a $5 HF 40T blade on her, and one of those is on my Ryobi portable TS. HF's $5 50T blade is on my Delta 10" CMS. My old 7-1/4" circular saw (Dad's aloonimum Craftsman) has a $2 HF 18T blade on it. I wore out the Piranha blade after 4 years and HF had a sale on. I spent 20 minutes filing the damned diamond arbor hole larger, so I won't be purchasing any more 7-1/4" HF blades, TYVM.
I may go with a Freud Diablo on the CMS next time.
If I were cutting more hardwoods, I'd put real blades on my saurs. I sometimes run old lumber through these saws, so cheap blades are cheap insurance for the stray nail or piece of embedded gravel I find.
-- Sex is Evil, Evil is Sin, Sin is Forgiven. Gee, ain't religion GREAT?
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Tablesaw: Combination blade (40T) (usually do rips, but often switch to cross cuts) RAS: Dado Stack or Cross cut Mitersaw: Cross cut (80T)
I'm using Irwin Marathon blades on my TS3660 and Kobalt CMS, and really need to pick up another cross cut blade for my TS.
Not interested in starting a new thread about this, but would a WWI or WWII blade make that much difference cutting pine (SPF actually) vs other blades?
Puckdropper
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