I need to repair a particle board desk where an "insert nut" pulled out of
a recessed hole. An "insert nut" is one of those toothed monsters that
screws into the wood, then you screw a bolt into it.
I plan to put the insert nut back in the hole and use epoxy to fill the
void where the particle board crumbled. The epoxy will also hold down some
splintered laminate. I'd like to put in the epoxy, then use a clamp to
apply pressure with boards on each side of the hole.
Of course, I need something to put between the epoxy and the boards that
is immune to the epoxy. Is there such a substance? I usually use plastic
wrap or aluminum foil when I do this with carpenters glue. Am I SOL here?
;~) That is correct. I have been trying to hang self made full window
screens to the other windows to filter summer time sun light. I attached a
magnet in each corner of the screen and then attached another magnet to
those magnets in each corner, apply the epoxy to the outer magnet and stuck
it up to the aluminum window frame and held them in place for 10 minutes.
This worked great for 1 day on two occasions.
rough up each gluing side, then use ge silicone 2. apply magnets to each
piece, use tape on the vertical side, and let sit for at least 24 hours
before applying the screens to the windows.
you can use the extra strength hot glue too.
if the magnets are too strong, then they'll pull their opposite partner out
of the glue. you probably want small ones. i use 1/4"x1/16" thick ones for
holding glass to steel using hot glue.
Magnets should be sanded to provide mechanical adhesion as well as
chemical, and you probably should sand off the paint where the magnets
will stick to.
For shiny surfaces like those magnets, try either superglue or the
two-part glue they use to attach rear view mirrors to windshields.
Personally I think I'd put a plug in it then bore the plug and screw
the insert into the bore.
That said, in answer to your question waxed paper works. If you have
a couple of boards that have been painted or polurethaned or coated
with something else smooth and nonporous, a few coats of a good grade
of paste wax (Butcher's Wax works, so does Johnson's, avoid silicone
car waxes) on top of that will also do the job. Polyethylene sheeting
will also work, and then there's the whole gamut of commercial
Epoxy will not stick to anything coated with Vaseline. If you can get
the repair section horizontal, I would do this:
1 - Coat the threads of the T-Nut and a bolt with Vaseline
2 - Screw the bolt into the T-Nut to seal off the T-Nut threads
3 - Drop the T-Nut into it's beat up hole and get it level. Support it
with tape if required.
4 - Pour some epoxy, preferably with some filler added, around and
over the nut.
5 - Let it set overnight - If the T-Nut is in the corect position, you
really shouldn't need to clamp it.
6 - Unscrew the bolt
Here's the epoxy system I use for a lot of projects. You can see a
container of filler in the background. I buy it at a local marine
Lot's of things already mentioned. I'll add, that low density polyethylene
plastic works great for working with epoxy as well as most adhesives.
That's the stuff that milk bottles and the cheaper gallon water bottles are
made of. Just cut up a couple of milk jugs and you'll have some nice sheets
to use as mixing pallets, spatulas, whatever. I've not found any common
adhesive that will stick to it, and it FREE.
Be careful here - too much epoxy sitting in a plastic container for
too long will melt it. I mixed some West Systems in a plastic cup once
and set it on the workbench for too long. It melted one side of the
cup, which tipped over and dumped the rest on the workbench.
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