TS Splitters/Riving Knifes

I read the earlier thread with interest, then recalled another thread where a statement was made about the SawStop unit. Someone believed that eventually the insurance companies might force manufacturers to fit Sawstop to their machines.
After reading the splitter thread, the sawstop/insurer idea just doesn't seem to have a hope.
As a few of you know, I recently received my saw from TW. The riving knife raises and lowers with the blade, the knife remains below the blade until more than 2" of blade is exposed, if I need to cut 4" in one go I can adjust it with an allen key to slide back. Other than that, it stays well out the way and I can't think of a good reason to remove it. I can even dado with it attached (up to a 2" anyway).
The engineering is very simple and the knife is replaceable with various thickness blades. I think you guys may be getting short changed on some (seemingly simple) safety features, but I am not sure why. Anyone interested in detailed photos let me know and I'll try to get some over the weekend for you.
--

Greg




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Greg Millen wrote:

I'm interested. Thanks.
-- Mark
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This sounds like a great setup. What would you say the total cost is? Who's the mfg? Oh yeah, I'd like to see some pics too. Thanks.
NoOne
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On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 15:11:12 GMT, "Mark Jerde"

TWS
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I am interested also
wrote:

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I'm interested. Let us know when you post them.
--

-Mike-
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<s.e.g.> No! I'ma "pro" and I don't use them! </s.e.g.>
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Greg, aren't you talking about a factory setup, rather than an add-on or shop built accessory?
Bob
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"Bob" wrote in message

Yes I am Bob. In fact, I have just finished the movie and pic files of the setup and will post them in a few minutes.
cheers,
Groggy
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I too would like to see the photos. I see that they are posted in the alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
I was the originator of the recent thread on riving knives. I also posted the same message in the Fine Woodworking Knots group that went on for about 20 postings that was quite interesting. You might want to follow it (it starts with message 20078.1).
Unless someone comes up with a good idea here (or the photos give me a good idea), I am just going to do with my new saw what I have in the past. I am going to build a series of zero clearance inserts that incorporate a splitter in them since it looks like a riving knife is going to be a LONG time coming!

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I looked at the photos and am now trying to download the movie (looks very large). I must be missing some of this thread. Greg. what brand of tablesaw are we looking at? That is QUITE a riving knife. What does it do for a blade guard?
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Very interesting. It took a very long time to download the movie (holy smoke, how big are these files?) The one showing the blade being lowered and raised confirms that it could be done on an American saw just hooked to the blade arm in some way. The riving knife tilts back because it is attached to the arm that pivots on the same axis as any american saw blade. In the thread I was working in Fine Woodworking, it was pointed out that the European saws are on ways and the riving knife comes up straight. Actually in viewing your video, it would appear that being on the same arm as an American pivoting blade might be considered an advantage since the riving knife covers a larger percentage of the blade when it is more exposed -- when IT COUNTS. Again, what is that saw? And please spell it out!
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I must apologise for the size of the movies - I have no idea how to make them smaller but run the same time.
To answer your questions, the saw is Taiwanese:
<http://www.europac.com.tw/01_Woodworking_Machinery/Sawing_Machines/Tilting_Arbor_Saw/03_tilting_arbor_saw.htm
gives details. It is rebadged by a large number of retailers here in Oz and they are VERY solid machines. (check the weight vs Unisaw for an idea)
The blade guard is a Suva guard, the yellow box object that is overhead the blade. It has a built in 3" dust collector. Pic:
http://woodworking.homeip.net/wood/buff/pages/Table%20Saw-15_JPG.htm
Hope it helps,
Greg

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Change LONG time to NEVER. Unless we want to purchase a European saw or pay the piper for expensive custom machining, we are all stuck with ZCI home based solution (not bad actually).
Bob
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So, why do you say that Bob? I didn't download the movie because I'm stuck with dialup service and that would be painful, but from what I see in the pics on the website it looks to be very doable on any typical saw. I could see it on my Craftsman Model 100 very easily. Sure, it'd take a little bit of work, but not a lot. Unless I'm missing something here. Strikes me that one would simply build it to ride on the arbor. I'll have to clear the top of my saw off later in the day and take another look inside to see if there would be any reason that wouldn't work or if there might be a better way.
I'm more curious how stable that knife is. It looks like a pretty substantial piece of steel, but it also looks like it will allow a pretty good amount of sideways flex if pressure is applied. It has to be limited to 3/16in steel in order to fit in the kerf and it just seems to me that the 4 inches or so that protrude would have enough flex to be problemsome. Maybe not. Eric - I'm looking for your feedback. If it takes a whack, do you have to re-adjust it? How much of a whack has yours taken and still keep tickin'?
--

-Mike-
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Guess we need to ask Greg about how well the riving knife takes a whack. It does look like it would have to have some good temper the way it is shaped. If it yielded at all, it would be more of a pain than a benefit. I would guess it would HAVE to have the ability to bend quite a lot and return to its original position.

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"Eric Anderson" wrote in message ...

The knife is very solid and will bend sideways. It will not bend back away from the blade due to its shape. It would be easy and cheap to make your own blade too, it's just a curved bit of steel with some holes after all.
--

Greg





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Greg,
Can you photograph or somehow describe the area around the arbor where the riving knife attaches on your saw?

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Np, I'll see what I can come up with.
Greg

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