table saw push stick or push block or ???

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no doubt this topic comes up once in a while
here is a variety http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2009/07/14-push-block-plans-11-push-stick-plans-save-your-paws-from-table-saws
I use a push stick and a shoe type push block out of plywood veneer
i use the shoe type the most so i like that one the best
which style do you reach for
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I've got two: One is simply a short 2x4 with a little tang on the back (simple and fast to make) and the other is a longish piece of plywood with a handle shaped like a handsaw handle.
I usually grab the 2x4 for thin cuts (I consider it extremely sacrificial) and the plywood for thicker cuts.
Puckdropper
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Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

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On 01 Aug 2015 16:47:34 GMT Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

i will try that but will glue a piece of sandpaper on the bottom just for better grip
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The tang actually does the pushing. The length of the push stick allows me to put pressure away from the edge of the board to prevent lifting. No need for sandpaper.
If I need to hold the material against the fence at the same time I'm pushing through the blade, I usually use the rounded end of one push stick as a feather board and push with the other. I'm only using enough pressure to keep the material from wandering, not pushing it tight like you can with a feather board.
Puckdroper
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Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

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On 01 Aug 2015 21:28:18 GMT Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

want to try it with sandpaper to allow applying some pressure toward the fence too
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On 8/1/2015 11:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote:

as a push block.
Is my memory faulty?
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On 8/1/2015 2:16 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:

thread ;-)
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On 8/1/2015 10:36 AM, Electric Comet wrote:

Im getting a malware security warning when trying to go to that site.
But What I use is one that will allow me to apply downward pressure as well as I push the work. I don't use a push stick that simply pushes and does not prevent the work from lifting on the back side of the blade.
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On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 12:16:50 -0500

i had no problems but i do use adblock

my plywood one does that

i think i made the push stick for cutting some small pieces
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On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 12:16:50 -0500

may not explain your alert but it does remind us that advertisers once again prove that no one and nothing is beneath them
http://www.pcworld.com/article/2956272/security/yahoo-tackles-large-malvertising-campaign-in-its-ad-network.html
yes i am suggesting the alert you got was from an malicious advertiser
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says...

Chrome is giving me a netnanny warning on that site. Went into it on Linux and there is a nice collection of pushblock designs.
The links all go offsite. The ones that aren't broken I included below for anyone who is interested.
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/107/107-pushblock.pdf http://www.provenwoodworking.com/tablesaw-push-stick.html http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/06/10/ws/ http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/thin-strip- rippin-pushblock/ http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/tip-ride-the- rails-for-safer-ripping/ http://www.cvwa.org/Guide/Guide005.html http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/kickback-dont- let-it-happen-to-you/ http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/safety/finger- saving-push-blocks/?page=1 http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pdf/Push_Stick.pdf http://www.timelesstreasuretrunk.com/Woodworking/projects.html#pushstick http://www.knottyplans.com/index.php?page 042 http://www.grampasworkshop.net/push%20stick.PDF http://media.ptg-online.com/media/dm/OwnersManuals/20031020153937 _En912859-10-20-03.pdf http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2009/06/18/sn/ http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2007/05/25/sn/ http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/jointing-and-planing/sure- grip-jointer-pushstick/ http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopArticle.aspx?id28490
In answer to the original question though, it depends on what tool I'm using and what the setup is. Some of my setups have the stock completely controlled by featherboards or other supports and all the stick has to do is move it through the blade. For others more control is needed and I use various kinds depending on the particular cut.
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On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 14:46:53 -0400

surprising that most links still work

someday i will try a featherboard i am not the safest person in the shop but i do take care high alert on the table saw and i usually cut myself with a chisel or some other surprising way
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On 8/1/2015 4:24 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

I would advise you to get a couple of feather boards ASAP, they can really improve your cuts.
FWIW if you are ripping do not mount the feather board past the front cutting edge of the blade. You do not want the feather board pushing the waste side back into and pinching the blade. That ruins the waste side edge and could be dangerous.
If you are using a dado set and cutting a groove use feather boards in front of the blade and behind the blade. Since you are not making a through cut there will be no pinching. This also insures that longer cuts do not drift away from the fence after passing over the blade.
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@swbelldotnet says...

I would add that there is little excuse not to have featherboards available. They take a few minutes to make out of scrap and make many cuts just so much more _convenient_.
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Or you can *gasp* buy one. The one I bought is stackable, so I can use it as either 2 featherboards or one tall one. Nice for resawing.
Puckdropper
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Puckdropper says...

But "buy one" means that one can use "costs something" as an excuse not to use them.
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Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in

Best idea is to do both. You can buy featherboards that will lock into the miter gauge slots on the tablesaw, which makes them very convenient to use; and make several more to clamp to the router table or a fence or other places where there isn't a slot.
Certainly once you've used them you realize how simple and effective they are for controlling the work.
John
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On Sun, 2 Aug 2015 13:39:54 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy

The magnetic featherboards work really well (on cast iron tops, obviously), too.

I use featherboards on the fence, too, but have to be careful so they don't lift the fence.
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On 8/2/2015 10:29 AM, krw wrote:

Yes they do, BUT not so well if the magnets happen to fall directly over the miter slot, it is surprising how many times that happens to me. Additionally the magnetic one that I use will not let a Gripper pass if the Gripper is wider than the stock being cut and the stock is 3/4" thick. I have to go to my wooden feather board which fits in the slot and is less than 3/4" thick.

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On 8/2/15 11:27 AM, Leon wrote:

Someone sells long, steel miter slots inserts that lock into the slot and bridge that gap for magnetic feather boards.
I'll have to find the link for these, I was going to get some but the move made me forget.
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