Suggestions for a fine cut

[Justin Time]

I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw. Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you

[Puckdropper]

"Justin Time" wrote in news:mt-dneRyfae73KLTnZ2dnUVZ [e-mail]:

Handsaw. Almost any one will do, some will do finer kerfs than others.

You can also cut the block in half, remove the desired amount from the side(s) and glue it back together.

Could you simply drill a hole the exact size of the bearing and press it in with a clamp? (It may not work with all bearings.)

Puckdropper

[WW]

[Tom Dacon]

My suggestion would be to use a jigsaw, and get for it a hollow-ground blade with zero tooth set - basically a Japanese pull saw in a jigsaw blade.

Or cut it by hand with a fine-tooth Japanese pull saw. You might get a straighter cut that way than a jigsaw would give you - the jigsaw blade might tend to wander a bit if the stock you're cutting is thick, unless you take it very slow.

Tom

I need a bit of help making a final cut in a project I made for the wife.

If you view the photo from the posted link below, you'll see the project I'm completing.

In the photo, on the left side of the board opposite the motor, is a sliding block which holds a bearing and small shaft to complete a double end connection for a bobbin. On that block, you'll notice a fine slit down the center and a sex bolt on the side, to tighten the bearing into place. I can only imagine the slit was made, or can be made with a bandsaw. Unfortunately, I don't have a bandsaw, but I need to make that slit in order to tighten down the bearing on my project. Obviously, a table saw, RAS, jig saw, etc. will have a blade wider than needed thus, I'm asking for suggestion how I can get that small slit without a bandsaw.

Thank you

[Leon]

[Steve Turner]

really.

[Larry]

"Justin Time" wrote in news:mt-dneRyfae73KLTnZ2dnUVZ [e-mail]:

You don't tell us what tools you have to work with so everything is a shot in the dark...

If you have a table saw you could cut the block 1/2 way thru with a 1/8" kerf blade, then turn it over and cut the other half with a 3/32" kerf blade. That would leave a 1/64" step on the both faces. Glue it back together and drill the hole for the bearing.

Or you could find a someone local with a bandsaw...

Larry

[Lew Hodgett]

--------------------------------------------- It's hand saw time.

A Japanese pull saw as T Dacon has suggested the saw used with a miter box which has a back stiffener.

(Forgot the correct name of the saw).

Lew

[Larry Jaques]

Or a $4 coping saw, which he could probably borrow if he doesn't already have one.

-- We are always the same age inside. -- Gertrude Stein

[Justin Time]

I was originally planning to permanently press or glue the bearing in place, but I decided not to in case it needs to be removed/replaced.

Thanks

[Justin Time]

I believe I do at work. I'll know today when I arrive.

Thanks

[Justin Time]

I was thinking about something along the same line with my very fine tooth pull saw which is made for my reciprocating saw. My concern was keeping it straight since it's extremely flexible as it's a double sided saw. I might give it a whirl.

Thanks

[Justin Time]

Thank you all for the suggestions. The obvious answer is a handsaw such as a coping or hacksaw, unless I know someone with a bandsaw (which I don't). I don't own either handsaws, but I have a hacksaw at work. Though, since both saws are cheap, I'll pick them up this afternoon for future projects.

[Gerald Ross]

Hey guys, it's too early in the morning to read about sex bolts and slits. Haven't even finished my second cup of coffee. (grin)

[Justin Time]

Providing the little woman doesn't mention anything about a small shaft, everything else is good.

[Justin Time]

Uggghh! Damn good idea. Now I don't know what to do.

[Justin Time]

and never gave it a second thought and I've used it for many things. Though, those others saws sure would look good in the collection.

Thanks

[Larry Jaques]

If you have an old hacksaw blade, flatten it with a hammer to take the set out of it for a much thinner kerf.

I don't know why I didn't think of it before, but I would use my Ryoba saw. It's extremely slim (0.025"?) and built for this kind of task, with both rip and crosscut teeth. I recently bought an Azebiki, too, which would work as well. They're Japanese pull saws. Once you use one, you'll find that you will absolutely, positively -need- one.

Ryoba for softwoods

Ryoba for hardwoods

Azebiki

And yet another alternative is a multifunction tool.

merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues. --Duke Ellington

[Larry Jaques]

Condolences, sir. Yer gettin' old, Ger, if you haven't thought about sex at least once by the time your feet hit the floor.

-- I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues. --Duke Ellington

[Steve Turner]

The man has a perfectly good excuse to buy a new tool (my suggestion is to get one of the best money can buy; why scrimp?) and you think he should BLOW that opportunity? Come on; play along here.