Suggestions for a fine cut

The task is complete and I did the wood clamping method. I used my fine double sided pullback saw which came with my reciprocating saw. The result turned out very well.

Thank you

Reply to
Justin Time
Loading thread data ...

Now that you have mentioned the desire to replace the bearing and it not be a permanent placement, consider using a screw/bolt that tightens into the side of the bearing rather than squeezing the wood up against the bearing.

Reply to
Leon

Sorry, but I can't condone Lie Nielsen or Festool prices, no matter how good they might be. I'd rather purchase ten Satanleys and/or a couple of Makitas, respectively. I'm che^H^H^Hvalue-oriented and could not care less what specific brand a tool is, for the most part.

I did, however, recover from my sin of omission (no tool purchase suggestion) with the Japan Woodworker links in the next post. I strongly feel that a Ryoba pull saw would serve him better than a way expensive, pretty rip handsaw. What's your take now?

-- I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues. --Duke Ellington

Reply to
Larry Jaques

---------------------------------- Having spent time as a ball bearing application engineer, I offer the following observation:

The outer race of a ball bearing doesn't like point loading that will develop using a bolt to secure it.

The wood clamping the bearing in place is the preferred method.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I would tend to agree but my wife is a quilter, has a similar set up and the motor just does not spin that fast. The bearing outer race would need only the slightest of pressure to keep it from spinning. you could probably wrap paper around it and the fit would be tight enough.

Reply to
Leon

I strongly feel that you need to try the Lie Nielsen before drawing that conclusion. I've owned half a dozen pull saws of various brands and countries of origin, and none have had anywhere near the control and accuracy as the Lie Nielsen. And it's not THAT expensive. I've used, grumbled at, and tossed aside enough pull saws to more than pay for the Lie Nielsen, and it's still in perfect condition. Sometimes you DO get what you pay for...

Reply to
Steve Turner

They're on coupon sale for $20 right now, if anyone still hasn't bought one. See the otherwise worthless Sunday "USA Weekend" 'magazine'.

-- I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues. --Duke Ellington

Reply to
Larry Jaques

I helped Frank Klausz at an American Woodworking show once and got to feel a nice Independence saw, so I have tried one. (Didn't LN buy them?)

Whoa! I didn't know that Paddy O'Leach started that co! He's one of us!

formatting link
I've owned half a dozen pull saws of various brands and countries

I'm glad you like it. I fell head over heels in love with the concept and implementation after my first time cutting with a Japanese pull saw. It's not perfect and it can't be used for everything, but I reach for it far more often than I do for a regular hand saw, and my Lee Valley dovie saw (Franch import) is unused now. I'm more precise with one that with a western saw, which is my bottom line.

-- I merely took the energy it takes to pout and wrote some blues. --Duke Ellington

Reply to
Larry Jaques

One of these would work very nicely:

Might be too thin a cut though.

On the other hand, if that's too thick, a jeweler's saw should do.

Reply to
J. Clarke

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.