Staple gun recommendation

[russellseaton1]

I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. Will be installing a 1/4" layer of plywood over an old 1950s 3/4" plywood floor that has a few weak spots and had vinyl flooring on it. Still have some glue spots from the old vinyl. Will be installing sheet vinyl over the new floor. Thinking the 1/4" layer of plywood will strengthen and smooth the old floor so it can accept the new sheet vinyl. Will also glue the 1/4" plywood to the old floor. Kitchen is about 10' by 10'. Three or four sheets of 1/4" plywood should cover it. Thinking the best way to fasten the plywood is with a whole lot of staples.

Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler to attach the 1/4" plywood to the old 3/4" plywood subfloor. I'd prefer to keep the cost to a minimum since this is really the only job I can think of for this stapler. I already own a small compressor that should be able to power a stapler. I don't think staplers capable of going through 1/4" plywood use a lot of air power.

[Bill]

If anything, I'm curious whether the 1950s 3/4" plywood might to tougher to drive staples into than the new 1/4" plywood. Of course, I'm probably the only one here who doesn't know the answer to that question...

Bill

[Larry Jaques]

I'd rip out all the old flooring, check the joists near the soft spots and sister in wood if needed, and use regular flooring ply instead of

1/4" underlayment. If you get a 300+ pound person standing on a soft spot with a measly 1/4" ply over it, they might go through. Think what that'd cost you. 23/32" tongue and groove Plytanium OSB is $15/sheet in bundles at Homey's Despot. Glue and screw it. Check for partial bundle pricing. 1-1/8" plywood sheathing is about twice that, but still worth it.

If you go with the underlayment, either rent an underlayment stapler or use a 1/4" crown stapler, Russ. Here's a perfectly functional model for dirt cheap. I've used mine for 5 years now without a hitch. It skips beats (misses a staple or nail) about as often as any other brand as far as I've seen.

$20 on sale, adding $13 for staples. the floor and glue down the underlayment, too!

-- Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary. -- Peter Minard

[Josepi]

Use "diversion" staples from the pneumatic gun. They are designed to hold better. The tips flare opposite directions when shot.

I would nail it down without glue for the next vinyl replacement, making it much easier.

I frames a 1700 square foot bungalow with a walkout basement using a cheap, small compressor. PITA but you fire three nails and then wait a few seconds. A small staplers won't make you wait much at all. You have to move your knees occasionally.

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I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. Will be installing a 1/4" layer of plywood over an old 1950s 3/4" plywood floor that has a few weak spots and had vinyl flooring on it. Still have some glue spots from the old vinyl. Will be installing sheet vinyl over the new floor. Thinking the 1/4" layer of plywood will strengthen and smooth the old floor so it can accept the new sheet vinyl. Will also glue the 1/4" plywood to the old floor. Kitchen is about 10' by 10'. Three or four sheets of 1/4" plywood should cover it. Thinking the best way to fasten the plywood is with a whole lot of staples.

Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler to attach the 1/4" plywood to the old 3/4" plywood subfloor. I'd prefer to keep the cost to a minimum since this is really the only job I can think of for this stapler. I already own a small compressor that should be able to power a stapler. I don't think staplers capable of going through 1/4" plywood use a lot of air power.

[Martin Eastburn]

I'd use a crown stapler - if you have the width - larger the better - and in Stainless Steel. The SS will last and last - while steel might rust and the floor get bouncy.

I drive staples through 1/4" ply and into hardwood. The pressure is regulated low and it is really a small volume of air needed.

They run them off CO2 tanks and compressors. Tiny compressor that has the pressure needed - will fill the unit - It is a small piston.

Mart> I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. Will be installing

[Josepi]

Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly. The rust is wanted in damp wood.

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I'd use a crown stapler - if you have the width - larger the better - and in Stainless Steel. The SS will last and last - while steel might rust and the floor get bouncy.

I drive staples through 1/4" ply and into hardwood. The pressure is regulated low and it is really a small volume of air needed.

They run them off CO2 tanks and compressors. Tiny compressor that has the pressure needed - will fill the unit - It is a small piston.

Martin

[Edward Hennessey]

RS:

This may be more than you want to donate to HD but that comes with a 7-year warranty for an oil-less, pneumatic stapler that has proved flawless every time the trigger pulled across a range of applications:

eBay or elsewhere may have it cheaper. Check Google shopping too.

Assuming access, I'd check the joists from below before you do anything. Depending on the extent of your dry rot in existing plywood, 5/8" does seems to call out the minimum thickness for the new covering. The mentioned felt underlayment is a very good idea and my choice would be screws for the wood.

A little more outlay now affords extra insurance regret won't bite the backside later. But you're the boss.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

[Morgans]

I think I need a pneumatic stapler for a project. Will be installing a 1/4" layer of plywood over an old 1950s 3/4" plywood floor that has a few weak spots and had vinyl flooring on it. Still have some glue spots from the old vinyl. Will be installing sheet vinyl over the new floor. Thinking the 1/4" layer of plywood will strengthen and smooth the old floor so it can accept the new sheet vinyl. Will also glue the 1/4" plywood to the old floor. Kitchen is about 10' by 10'. Three or four sheets of 1/4" plywood should cover it. Thinking the best way to fasten the plywood is with a whole lot of staples.

Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler to attach the 1/4" plywood to the old 3/4" plywood subfloor. I'd prefer to keep the cost to a minimum since this is really the only job I can think of for this stapler. I already own a small compressor that should be able to power a stapler. I don't think staplers capable of going through 1/4" plywood use a lot of air power.

Weak spots call for 5/8" underlayment, at minimum. Apply layer of 30 pound felt and ring shank underlayment nails.

[Morgans]

Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly. The rust is wanted in damp wood. &&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&& Wrong. They have a thin colored coating, usually orange brown or green. That is a heat glue, more like cement, that holds the nails. Thus they are called coated sinkers, and the power nails also have a coating that holds almost instantly, when the nail heats up from being driven in so quickly.

[Josepi]

It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.

That package information is just a bunch of nonsense, People using them know better.

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Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly. The rust is wanted in damp wood.

[HeyBub]

I've got one of these from Harbor Freight (twenty bucks)

've used the staple feature to recover barstool seat cushions, attach carpet to largish cat furniture, and a number of other projects. It will certainly drive a staple through 1/4" plywood and into whatever's behind it.

In your case, it seems to be a pretty good $20 gamble.

[Hoosierpopi]

On Apr 3, 9:33=A0pm, " [e-mail]" wrote Recommendation for a pneumatic stapler

Well, I'd go with the green unit at Lowes for $79. I got their (I think its Makita) 15ga nailer and love it. This unit is light weight and has a good adjustable depth control. I've also found these staplers (I have a Bostich w/o depth adjustment) useful on many projects.

I suspect you are NOT wanting to move all your base cabinets - hence the idea of covering over the existing flooring. But the poster suggesting replacing the original plywood had it right. The 4x8 flooring material at Lowes/HD would provide a much better result and would not raise your flooring and effectively lower your counter heights. Of course, if you were planning on removing the base cabinets, there is no better approach than replacing the sub-flooring with new.

[-MIKE-]

Don't be so certain. :-)

I bought that gun for laying down some cheap engineered hardwood flooring, which is basically plywood. The gun did the job when I was using it in the tongue, but wouldn't sink very well shooting straight down. This was with the shorter staples, and after I cranked the air up to (and over) the suggested max pressure.

You may have to go through a few to find one strong enough.... maybe buy a few just to be certain you get a good one, then return the rest.

No big deal, though. HF guns have always been hit or miss. You buy one that isn't so great because of the cheap seals or whatever, you buy another and it shoots great.

The gun worked great for these projects and I never had a single misfire.

[-MIKE-]

My first comment was aimed at your second to last comment, not the lest. My entire post supports your last statement. :-)

[russellseaton1]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Little hesitant about Harbor Freight stapler. I've been there. Bought stuff there. And some stuff is great. Even if it wasn't so cheap. Other stuff, I would have to be paid to carry home. Little leery of something complicated like a stapler. It has moving parts.

I think renting may be the best. Probably less than the cost of the Bostich stapler. Get a stapler designed specifically for subflooring. Use the right wide crown staples. Gun, compressor all in one bundle that works together. Less trouble overall. Pretty sure the town where the house is located has a tool rental store.

Regarding the comments about replacing the entire subfloor with 3/4" new plywood and checking the soft spots. The house has a little bit of termite damage. Two joists near the back door are rotted out quite a bit. Right next to the sill plate. Access to these for sistering in new joists along side is very limited. The furnace ductwork and several plumbing pipes run right under these rotted joists. And the stairway to the basement is right there too. No access for working. I really don't want to cut up the flooring above. But I will have to think about it. With a 3' x 3' piece of flooring removed right above the soft spot, I would have access to the joists and could sort of easily screw and glue some new ones alongside the rotten ones.

[Josepi]

DIVERSION STAPLES ARE SPECIALIZED FOR FLOORING. The stapler is the same as the normal ones. The staples have tips angled in opposite directions and travle in opposite directions in the wood.

Your hardware store person should know about this.

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[Josepi]

Your definition of "holding" must be fairly lame. If they held that well your wood wood be a trhrwo away every time. Judging by the intelligence of your response you obviously didn?t think much about it..

The steel nails they use have no pink, blue or purple on the tips. They hold much better after a few weeks of corrosion inside the wood.

Don't quit your day job and attempt the real world of construction.

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You are so full of shit, your breath must stink.

How many framing power nails have you ever tried to pull out? Me? Plenty.

I teach high school kids how to build houses. They get it wrong, plenty. Then the nails must be pulled out.

They hold nearly instantly, just fine.

It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.

That package information is just a bunch of nonsense, People using them know better.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Mike O.]

The flooring manufacturer will probably have a recommendation for some kind of underlayment. Then the underlayment manufacturer will have a recommendation for how often to nail it. Normally, the flooring guys use a 1/4" plywood underlayment that is stamped "underlayment" (no voids) and they nail it with 1/4" crown staples. The underlayment manufacturer wants staples no more than 2" apart on the perimeter and

6" in the field. It takes quite a few staples but you can go as fast as you can pull the trigger...or as fast as your compressor will keep up.

Mike O.

[George Watson]

"Morgans" chomped @Josepi/Bengi/Janice in commenting like:

/chipped

fuller. .. eyes are brown.

The L00n uses trade mags, online tutorials and past topical posts to get the material for the bait. It is a successful strategy for him in those groups he targets. Very big on baiting DIY types - he spent quite some time in trolling those regulars, successfully. The initial posts are enough to get the gullible rolling along. Where he falls over is in the detail, like knowing the actual behavior of reactive power (his electrical experience is as a "stripper" in a battery recycle yard), the performance of critical mass in a gaseous compression cycle, and of course the behavioral characteristics of a poor nntp binary posting together with "how to follow up to a text post"

No doubt your issue with framing nails fits in there somewhere. However, given your experience around the halls of Usenet, I *am* surprised to note you feeding IT. Hence you get a bite at the hook from myself. Having taught Trade (in another Life) it does give me the "irits" also, in seeing his deliberate misinformation being put to press, however it is taken as a given those with enough skills to access Usenet also holds sufficient life skills to know a d*****ad when they read one. Until some hopeful bites it is best to just ignore the drivel. He _will not_ "go away" but at least the NG can deny him any Voice. Post "heads up" (only) for newbies blinking.

The actual intent he has is to play on the egos of differing personalities amongst regulars in motivating contradiction, and thereby confusion. Plenty have self destructed before today under his influence. It is your free choice to join that list :-]

cheers george

[Morgans]

It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.

That package information is just a bunch of nonsense, People using them know better.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You are so full of shit, your breath must stink.

How many framing power nails have you ever tried to pull out? Me? Plenty.

I teach high school kids how to build houses. They get it wrong, plenty. Then the nails must be pulled out.

They hold nearly instantly, just fine.