Staple gun recommendation

The glue is absorbed in the raw edge of wood just cut. Just try to pull out the nail or staple if placed wrong - you get wood also.

Mart> It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.

Mine's 5 years old and going strong. Suit yourself.

OK, but then you have to rent every time you need one. I figure that if I have to spend money, I'd rather spend it only once. (Of course, I'm a hopeless tool collector...)

Egad! Have you removed the termites yet? And it's an 8' drop to the floor if the soft flooring and/or joists lets go altogether? Replace all that flooring and rotted joists, man, before someone dies. No other action is _sane_. Borrow the money if you have to, but do it ASAP, eh?

-- Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary. -- Peter Minard

The point was completely moot at any rate. The nails I was referring to were hand driven nails most of the experienced framing crews use here. They have no glue and hold enough to frame but come out easily for the first few weeks only. Almost perfect system. I was distracted from the real issue by a random snipe.

Have you seen staples for a small gun with the `heat sensitive adhesive`on them. I haven`t seen any.

The glue is absorbed in the raw edge of wood just cut. Just try to pull out the nail or staple if placed wrong - you get wood also.

Martin

--------------- On 4/4/2011 7:03 AM, Josepi wrote: It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.

That package information is just a bunch of nonsense, People using them know better.

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Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly. The rust is wanted in damp wood.

Freight stapler. I've been there.

--------------------------- I have a Porter-Cable 1/4" crown stapler that I no longer need.

Have shot everything from 1/2" thru 1-1/4" staples with it.

If interested contact me off list.

Lew

The point was completely moot at any rate. The nails I was referring to were hand driven nails most of the experienced framing crews use here. They have no glue and hold enough to frame but come out easily for the first few weeks only. Almost perfect system. I was distracted from the real issue by a random snipe.

Have you seen staples for a small gun with the `heat sensitive adhesive`on them. I haven`t seen any.

The glue is absorbed in the raw edge of wood just cut. Just try to pull out the nail or staple if placed wrong - you get wood also.

Martin

--------------- On 4/4/2011 7:03 AM, Josepi wrote: It must take a few weeks for the glue to cool down.

That package information is just a bunch of nonsense, People using them know better.

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Framers use bare steel nails because they can come out easily for modifications until the corrosion sets in and then they hold very firmly. The rust is wanted in damp wood.

================================== Go get you a box of 1d coated sinkers. That is what most framers hand drive in 2 x 4's. put a few in your mouth to hold them like some old timers used to do.

Tell me what your lips and teeth look like, after a few minutes with a half-dozen of those nails in your mouth.

I would have no idea what 1d coated sinkers are. Our nails are not classified that way but rather by inches of length.

I used a lot of barbed nails for my latest home construction at 3 times the price of the regular air nailer units. They had the coated tips on them and barbs. Yes, they were horrible to pull out again, immediately or any time. They were not supposed to corrode as they were all galvanized also. Perhaps that was why they came barbed???

Another point o mention, I understand that in the USA the clipped head varieties are not legal anymore or are going away? A freshly driven clipped head nail with a barbed shaft would pull right through a spruce 2x4 as the hold was stringer than the pull of the head. I can understand why they may be done away with, there.

Some other framers arrived to assist putting the trusses up and like the other crews I have seen here they did not use nailers but wore the apron full of 3.5" ardox bare steel nails. They were all taught using nail guns in framing school but soon gave it up for practical reasons. . They were easy to correct with any decent hammer in the next few days. After a few weeks this was not the case, anymore. The corrosion, and perhaps the wood healing somewhat, made them almost as hard to pull as the barbed ones. Sheeting was hand tacked by all and followed by a nailer used by the first year apprentice when they didn't need him.

A few dozen framers I have worked with never used power nailers. First, in Canuckistan they run $500-800 for a decent cordless unit. The same units that sell at HD in the US for $2-300. The companies didn't want to supply them, at that price and have them wrecked or stolen frequently. They corded units are too dangerous and clumsy to drag up when climbing wooden structures and old fashion ardox steel nails work better for reasons stated above. They don't have to listen compressor noise drowning out the satellite rock music blasting, either. They never put them in their mouths but handy in their aprons.

All the best.

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Tell me what your lips and teeth look like, after a few minutes with a half-dozen of those nails in your mouth.

I have boxes of staples in the shop with glue. It is what binds the staples together.

Some / most/ many / framers use nails on a wire. The wire is cut off as the nail drives in. Others have tape on the sides.

Mart> The point was completely moot at any rate. The nails I was referring to

I doubt that is the heat sensitive glue we were discussing. Most nail strips have glue that binds them together but it is not for the intent to "glue them" into the wood.

The glue being referred to is supposed to glue the nails to the freshly ripped open, wet, ends of wood fibres, immediately after the nail is fired. Wishful thinking, at best.

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I have boxes of staples in the shop with glue. It is what binds the staples together.

Some / most/ many / framers use nails on a wire. The wire is cut off as the nail drives in. Others have tape on the sides.

Mart> The point was completely moot at any rate. The nails I was referring to

I dunno. The finishing nails/brads I use are a bitch to remove. . .

Mine are too. (tough to get out) They typically pull through the garbage board baseboard and casing moldings when mistakes are made, but they have no coatings on them. But then I use

The old one I have to clip off with a side cutter and bend over to reset the molding back in place.

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Josepi wrote: I doubt that is the heat sensitive glue we were discussing. Most nail strips have glue that binds them together but it is not for the intent to "glue them" into the wood.

The glue being referred to is supposed to glue the nails to the freshly ripped open, wet, ends of wood fibres, immediately after the nail is fired. Wishful thinking, at best.

Don't be a jerk. We were talking about 3.5" construction framing nails and you were not only aware of that you commented on it enough to toot your "expertise" based on it.

Now you attempt to apply the same thing to an 18Ga. pin brad from a cheap nailer to exemplify your point. Your example was moot and your attempt to side track was obvious.

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"HeyBub" wrote I dunno. The finishing nails/brads I use are a bitch to remove. . .

Yep. More often than not, the nail BREAKS OFF before it comes out, but some here say it has to rust for couple weeks. BUULLLLL SHIVICK !!! says me!

-- Jim in NC

"HeyBub" wrote I dunno. The finishing nails/brads I use are a bitch to remove. . .

Yep. More often than not, the nail BREAKS OFF before it comes out, but some here say it has to rust for couple weeks. BUULLLLL SHIVICK !!! says me!

-- Jim in NC