Questions about raised panel kit. cabinet doors with curved tops.
I'm referring to one like the the second door from the right in the
top row athttp://www.stellarwoodworks.com/cabinetry.html
Are there such things as templates for the curves?
If there are no templates easily available and I draw it up from
scratch, is there any best way to adjust the pattern when making doors
of different widths? The width of the curve gets smaller, but the
height of the arch remains the same to match the other doors.
My guess about doing the raised panel is that the top curve is cut and
the panel is done face down on a router table, using a pilot bearing
to follow the curve.
Obviously I've never made a raised panel door. I'm just at the
beginning of the planning stage to make several cabinets.
Thanx for any advice.
Yep, that's about it. Some people would use a hand held router
instead of the table so they could see what's going on, but it's the
same thing. An average kitchen would probably only need four or five
hardboard templates for the arch tops.
If you ever need to hand draw any pattern (any symetrical pattern that
requires a mirrow image for left/right [usually] or top/bottom, for
any project), draw one half, cut the form/outline, then fold your
"paper" in half, to make/draw an exact copy/profile on the other side
(for the other half). .... actually, I'm supposing you know this.
Curve templates are readily available for creating designs of your
own.... http://www.cutting-mats.net/french-curves.html .... again,
draw one half, cut the form, fold your "paper", then draw the other
Seems it woud be. Thanks for the heads up.
I guess I was trying to get the idea across, more so, than best
technique. I perform this technique most often with my upholstery
work. Fabric doesn't cut quite the same as "paper" patterns. Fabric
often flexes, depending on the weave, so cutting 2 ply doesn't always
work out, properly. On fabric, front and back (top and bottom)
centers are established, one half of the profile is marked/cut, then
the fabric is folded, to mark/cut the other half. When old fabric is
removed from an item, it's often no longer symetrical, so sometimes a
new pattern is made. Of the old fabric, I use the best side (best
remaining profile) to determine which profile best outlines what the
original was, then make a paper pattern, for the new fabric.
You guys posted a lot of good links on exactly what I needed. Thanks.
After reading much of it, it seems that using a vertical bit would be
nice, but is there a way to use a vertical bit on the curve of a
cathedral door panel?
No. Verticals will only work realistically on straight cuts. Additionally
you want to for sure mount a raised panel bit in a router table. Actually I
only use a router table for all the bits in this situation.
I have done a kitchen where I had to match existing arched cab doors. I
simply held a thin piece of wood and bent it up to the high spot and had a
helper trace the arc. I was able to do the arcs smoothly enough.
LOL, I like that "special pricing", too.
LOL, It does seem like 2 or more would have been easier to portray. Good
thing they did not extend it out to all choices had they a few hundred
styles to offer.
I was blessed with a good deal when I bought the weaver jigs for panel and
rail and also got one set of templates on Woodweb woodworking machinery.
You don't really need this, but it is he best I know of. Some other
companies make similar jigs and I don't see why they couldn't be used on a
I have a good friend who has always made his own patterns of 1/4' plywood
and it's pretty fast. He uses a shaper, but that doesn't matter; it should
work on a router table. The best advice I can give you is that you need to
make good handles and use good control practices when doing this. And also,
count your fingers on a regular basis.
For what little you are going to do, consider making your own patterns.
It's really easy to make half of it on tracing paper and just fold it over
to achieve symmetry. I still make my own patterns for some weird designs.
I forgot to say that if you put a small piece of sacrificial wood on each
end, it will help prevent tear-out.
Have a good day, woodstuff
I have been a long time fan of the genuine shaker door style where the
raised panel is on the inside of the door (although usually not a huge
bevel). I find, and it is really a personal preference, that too much
detail on a whole lot of doors becomes too busy. The array of doors in
a kitchen will create enough of an interest all by themselves. There
are situations where nicely done raised panel doors can be very nice,
I just don't think a kitchen is the place. Wardrobes, vanities, desks,
I will get you a few shots of doors I like.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.