question about banding

I'm getting ready for this entertainment center I've been planning. 3/4" maple veneer plywood that I bought 1/4" thinck banding for. I was planning to set this onto an existing sideboard, at least for starters. So I'd thoguht of having a bottom for this with 4 uprights resting on this. Wide middle for the TV with sliding doors to hide it that slide left and right in front of bookcase-like sets of shelves that are each about half the width of the middle.
Questions: On that bottom, do I attach the outside uprights by butting or dadoing them onto the bottom (with Dominos as strengthening)? Then how do I put banding on the narrow outside edges of the bottom?
--
Best regards
Han
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I could give all kinds of answers but I am having a hard time picturing. Got a sketch of the proposed area in question?
O M G !!! You have a Domino?
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I'll be posting a terrible drawing on abpw for all to see.

Retired, and wanting to have fun ... Not cost-effective for an amteur newbie woodworking sort of hobbyist, but ...
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Best regards
Han
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I'll take a look.

I have had mine about 3~4 years, they are great huh? ;~)
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Yep!!
--
Best regards
Han
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What, besides a tool, could make a man talk like a 14 year old girl? :) :)
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wrote:

Hah, that's an easy one: A 14-18 y/o girl. <wink>
-- From the Book of Aussie Bush Etiquette:
Never tow another car using pantyhose and duct tape.
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On 4/7/2011 9:37 AM, Han wrote:

If I correctly envision your question ... in almost all cases it is best to apply the edge banding first, them cut your dadoes/rabbets with the banding already in place ... makes for a much better fit and takes less time.
CAVEAT: when dadoing through edge banded stock, it is generally a good idea to tape/or back up the exit point of the router bit or dado stack blade so the banding won't tear out, the entry point is less vulnerable since it is effectively backed up already.
Although I know this/better, I had a situation where I had to do just the opposite today ... AMMOF, just spent the last three hours banding 3/4" maple plywood with glue-on banding and cleaning up the existing dadoes, covered up by the banding application, with a chisel.
Sloppy and time consuming ... fresh on my mind, and still wearing the sawdust as I type this. :(
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On 4/7/2011 5:24 PM, Swingman wrote:

Just replied to your post in ABPW ...
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I replied to that. I guess I was having a senior moment that I didn't envision that routed rabbet. I'll keep in mind to do the banding before the routing and assembly.
Thanks a zillion, Karl!
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Best regards
Han
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And weren't we talking about not using veneer any more and using hard wood strips. LOL
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OH:
I'll double on Swingman's warning. You can even do both. A friend who works cutting through banding also scores the profile of the through cut on exit face of material with a sharp knife. I can see this makes sense if you don't back the banding up but my ability to fully reason to the benefit he finds in doing it with redundant back up doesn't fully equal his faith in adding that as a third step. Side-by-side trials would put Doubting Thomas to rest though.
Another nod to the simple and obvious is that the sharper your bit, the less potential for tearout you'll have, especially on thin laminae.
I'm ignorant of what awpb is or I'd have a look at your details.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
Thugh I know this/better, I had a situation where I had to do just

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