Do you have a router and a router table? If you do you can add a shim to the
outfeed side of the fence and it will work using a straight bit but usually
requires a bit of friggin. JG
My thought also if dealing with 3/4" material even though
what I have used in the past is rather primitive for this
group. Nonetheless, for softwoods, I used a radial arm saw
with a Craftsman, planer blade. Always put a dado in the
edge for a 1/4" x 1/2" piece of plywood, and used 2x4s
across the joints to keep them flat during glue up. Worked
very well as long as I was careful.
Depends on what kind of wood. True rough cut may have all sorts of twist and
bends. Much of the rough cut at some places is already skip planed and the
dealer will joint and edge and face for you. Then you just do the other
edge on the table saw with a good blade and finish in a planer.
ago. What a great fence. Thank you! One of the woodworking mags had a
couple of video tips from you demonstrating the use of router sleds, and
I am unable to find them anymore. Do you know if they are still online
anywhere? I've built the sleds from memory and they work great, but I'd
like to see the videos again. Thanks for all of your efforts.
How about a jointer plane? Of course you need a good way to hold the wood
to be successful. Its takes some doing to get fully set up to joint a board
by hand, but once its done, you can do things really fast on future jobs.
I'm going to assume it's just getting the two edges to
match up "light tight" (hold them together, hold up
to the light and not see light coming through the joint)
that you're asking about. A hand plane will do the
job, longer edges requiring a longer plane like a #7
If you hand plane the edges together AND orient the
parts right, the edges don't have to be perfectly
square to the board faces. Getting the mating pairs
of edges straight isn't that hard (well maybe on a
5 or 6 foot length but a joiner might have a little
trouble getting the edges straight unless the
infeed and outfeed tables are pretty long). Getting
the edges square is a little more difficult though
Veritas makes a magnetic clip on guide that sure
Check this out. It'll explain things better than "all
text". Some decent illustrations are worth far
more than several thousand words.
I was wondering about another method. Would putting the edges of the boards
together edge to edge, fixing them in place in relation to each other and
then running them through a tablesaw so the blade was in contact with both
those edges at the same time. Would that work? I've seen some fine edges
created with the proper table saw blade.
Fine Woodworking did something similar but different about
15-20 years ago. It was an article on two wavy edges that
would mate up near perfectly. They worked up the edge on
one piece and copy routed it to the next piece (pieces edge
to edge/separated by the diameter of the bit minus a wee
Mathematically it's flawed but a little glue and proper
clampage and you couldn't tell. Long story short, it looks
good and would seem to work for straight(ish) stock.
The Nov/Dec 1995 issue of Fine Woodworking described a jig for what
you want to do on pg. 20. Thei suggestion was to prepare a piece of
straight scrap a couple of feet long that is about 3/32 thinner than
the width of your straight cutting router bit, and at least as wide as
your straight cutting bit is long. Across the narrow edge of your
scrap piece, at each end, fasten a couple of battens. The battens
should stick out from the face of the scrap about 1/32" less than the
router base extends from the closest edge of your straight cutting
Lay out your boards edge to edge withe the piece of scrap captured
between them. Space everything up off your workbench so the battens
are sitting on the faces of your wood, and the scrap is hanging
between them. Slide a straight edge up to the ends of the battens and
clamp everything down. Remove the jig and run your router down the
straight edge. It should shave a little off both pieces of stock. If
you stock has a very wavy edge, you may need to repeat the setup
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