Still happy with the Hitachi M12V?

Need to make a decision on a dedicated table router. You still satisfied with the Hitachi M12V?
Iirc, you have a couple of them, don't you?
Thanks, Michael
The above posted to LRod instead of emailed for the express purpose of soliciting opinions from anyone else not named LRod, but who always read <PING> posts not addressed to them anyway, just like I do. C'mon, you know you do, go 'head an' admit it. Yer hooked. :)
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"Michael Baglio @nc.rr.com>" <mbaglio<NOSPAM> wrote in message

Never heard of a <PING> Anyhow, American Woodworker has a review of 15a router for table use this month.
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I've had my M12V in my router table for several years. It's never failed to do what I want without problems. I'd heartily recommend it. If you're putting it in a table, definitely get an adjustment handle add-on, or make one as I did. Makes it much easier to raise and lower this beast.
HTH, Vic
"Michael Baglio @nc.rr.com>" <mbaglio<NOSPAM> wrote in message

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to
Vic, did you mean to day that "It" has never failed to do what I want "and" with out problems?
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Vic Baron wrote:

A decent router I'm sure, but it has the same problem as my Makita 3612C in that the opening in the base is not very large, and many of the larger diameter bits (like horizontal raised-panel cutters) will not pass through the opening. I'm curious as to how people have worked around this problem.
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On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 02:13:42 GMT, Steve Turner

i got around it by cutting the ears off. since it stays in the table and i dont use it with a collet they were not nessasary.
skeez
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On Wed, 11 Feb 2004 02:13:42 GMT, Steve Turner

I've never understood the need to retract a larg bit through this hole. In the Rosendahl method, one takes the router out of the table and attacks the collett nut from there, so the bit is going to come out of the top of the router and there is plenty of access to the nut.
If the issue is depth of cut adjustment, the correct way to make multiple passes with a panel raising cutter is to change the position of the fence, not the height of the cutter. In fact, if you have a back cutter on your bit, it's the ONLY way.
Consequently, the size of the hole in the base doesn't matter.
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
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LRod wrote:

<snip>
Hmm, I've never used any raised-panel bits with back cutters before; I've always just used the panel cutter itself to make the back cuts. Two reasons, mainly. One, I been somewhat wary of how they would behave if I were to feed a slightly warped panel in concert with a failure to keep the panel flat using downward pressure. And two, I doubt that you'd want to used a back-cutter bit when doing arched panels :-)
But I see your point. Using the fence to control multiple passes makes more sense than raising the height of the bit, if your workpiece allows it. I'll try that next time I do regular raised panels.
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Oh yeah.... look here....
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr6.htm
Steve Turner wrote:

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wrote:

Can you post here how you make yours? I have been thinking of make one myself for sometime.
Thanks
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I certainly *hope* it's a good machine, as I just bought one to replace the itty-bitty Ryobi that's in the table (the Ryobi has done everything i've asked it to without complaining, but I don't feel like running hundreds of feet of MDF for molding through it.... besides, I needed an excuse to get a 2nd router!)
--randy
"Michael Baglio @nc.rr.com>" <mbaglio<NOSPAM> wrote in message

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On Tue, 10 Feb 2004 21:45:02 GMT, Michael Baglio

I do. I still think it's the best table router. There are other routers out there that are robust and reliable, but I think the Hitachi works best at my style of table routing, which is much the same as practiced by Bob Rosendahl and his son on The Router Workshop.
Thanks for asking.
LRod
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
http://www.woodbutcher.net
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Cool. I'm jazzed about the power but since they don't get a great deal of play here, I was concerned that there might be some unspoken downside. You know, along the lines of "Yeah, 3-1/4 HP is great, but the bushings wear out in a week and the all the smoke leaks out after a month or so..." ;>
But, I'll pick one up now. Thanks again.
Michael Who occasionally but not so fondly remembers when he kinda sorta abused the hell out of a demitasse-cup-with-outstretched-pinky 3/8ths Makita corded while drilling wiring holes in studs with a 1-inch BigAzz <notTM> paddle bit through, like, dozens of studs and let all the smoke out of the drill. OBWW- Machinery tip: Smoke should always stay inside the motor. Sh*t don't run good if ya let the smoke out.
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Michael, I'm not LRod but....
I have been using an M12V in a table for several years and can not imagine a better router for that use. When you get ready to set it up, check out http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr6.htm There are several tips there that will help you get the most out of the Hitachi.
Dick Durbin
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On 11 Feb 2004 12:15:36 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@tfn.net (Dick Durbin) wrote:

Thanks, Dick. You know the only thing wrong with that particular woodshopdemos page is that it doesn't have Beth in it anywhere. ;> (Robin who?!?) Beth rocks.
And apparently so does this router. Thanks to all for the info.
Michael
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