PING: Bill - How's the workbench coming along?

Haven't seen a progress report since you were curing the A/C problem. I'd hoped to finish mine overe the long weekend, but a mishap involving about 8" of particle board, some ply behind that, and my hands slowed me down. Not all shop accidents are with tools. Spent all day yesterday trying to get the vise buried and edge trimmed out. Spent far too much time trying to get 14' of board out of 8. Should be done today. -J
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On 5/31/2012 7:03 AM, Joe <Joe@Joe'sPlace.com wrote:

Shishhhhh, don't distract him. ;~)
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Awww.... That's half the fun. :)

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Joe <Joe@Joe'sPlace.com wrote:

Thanks for your interest Joe. It sounds like your project is going great. I hope you are planning to post pics! I conciously told myself I would try to work on my project, rather than post about it--but thank you for asking. : )
I have the legs and top cut, but decided I will recut the ends of the top again after final assembly.
I also have glued and screwed an arbor to the pair of legs on the left and and the pair of legs on the right. I got lots of (hours of) use out of my combination square, including it's level, and clamps. It's not rocket science, but there are a lot of things to measure, and I think one of the vectors even points towards the moon! : )
Here's an amusing sub-story: In experimenting I was able to drive a 3 1/2" #10 deck screw almost 3" into a piece of 4by4, so I figured all was well. So I had everything meticulously measured and clamped so that the vector pointed toward the moon, and everything, and predrilled. I used 1/8" drill bit which a gaggle of 3 at Menards agreed was a suitable choice. Then I applied my glue, but the darn screws only went about half way in! At that point what we might call, in technical terms, a "mess". I got out the sponge, stripped screw heads, ended up trashing the apron, etc.
Using my micrometer, the shanks on my screws are close to .15" (I measured .148"). 1/8" is course, .125". The shanks of the screws didn't want to pass through the 2by4 aprons!
So I bought a 3/16" drill bit, cut a new apron, measured and clamped until the moon was in view again, re-predrilled, glued and screwed the aprons on. Hand tightened. Those square holes on the ends of the deck screws are supposed to rest parallel with the ground, aren't they? : )
I am surprised how much the legs can still be manipulated. I plan to next put on the long stretchers at the top, and then manipulate (maybe using some rope), until I am satisfied, and then measure and cut and install the other strechers.
The weather is interfering now, so I am going to try my hand at fixing a leaky faucet next.
Bill
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Bill wrote:

Replacing the little spring and its rubber cover residing under the cylinder on the one side of my bathroom faucet, as well as an O-ring on the cylinder for good measure, fixed my dripping problem. It only took two trips to Lowes. Fortunately they they had person that was knowledgeable on the subject on my second visit. +1 for Lowes.
Unfortunately, I stripped the hex set-screw (1/16") for the handle as I was snugging it up. So, I've replaced my problem with one having a lower priority.
EZ-out to help with that, huh? I've heard of them.
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>Those square holes on the ends of the deck screws are supposed to rest parallel with the ground, aren't they? : ) Yes. Tests show up to 10% loss in holding power if oriented differently in horizontal installations. It has to do with magnetic equilibrium, and if not parallel, they can actually unscrew themselves trying to equalize. Statiscally, an equal number should try to screw themselves in tighter, but why take the chance? If you look carefully, some brands have some curvature approaching the socket. This is to counteract variations in flux from the Earth's curvature. In a vertical installation, the shank taper takes care of it. Seems to have little effect, but the argument rages on.

using some rope), until I am satisfied, and then measure and cut and install the other strechers. Mine was also wobbly on the dry fit, but rock solid when I tightened everything up. I'd be happy to post some jpgs after I finish the trim glue-up tomorrow as long as you promise not to whine about yEnc. They would be in the binaries group.
--


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Joe <Joe@Joe'sPlace.com wrote:

I don't know what yEnc is, but please make a post here if you post some pics!
Bill
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Joe <Joe@Joe'sPlace.com wrote:

Is Joe a mechanical engineer or something like that?
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Naw, he's a chef, in'e? Owner of Joe's Morgue, Bar, and Grill. "You stab 'em, we slab 'em. You kill 'em, we grill 'em."
-- In reality, serendipity accounts for one percent of the blessings we receive in life, work and love. The other 99 percent is due to our efforts. -- Peter McWilliams
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Probably not, probably someone who just decided to DO IT instead of talk about it.
On 5/31/2012 11:40 PM, Bill wrote:

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It's the program default to yEnc files because it conserves bandwidth. It is not a separate process. I haven't yet been able to find if it even can be bypassed. I guess I could change the extensions to txt but my guess is that most having problems with this don't know what extensions are or could find the dot to be able to change them back. It's really funny how there's such a furor over this, when the post is explicitly directed to one person. Oh, well. Once upon a time, some were upset when roads were paved because of the unknown effect on their horses and buggies. Today we wonder how there was any transit accomplished at all with the slowness from muddy ruts. Change is. For anyone that doesn't have a clue what yEnc is, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YEnc. You can <think> of it this way- Every character sent is represented by a number. If you only sent capital letters and numbers in English, you'd need 26+106 (A-Z,+0-9) numbers, plus a few for punctuation and carriage return / line feed. Add lower case - that's 26 more. Add basic block graphics,, or fancier graphics, or color, that's more and more numbers. Or, you could have the code for A, plus a code for lower case, plus a code for red, and when your computer saw these 3 in a row, it converted them into one character. Is it more efficient to send one number or three, and to have the computer convert three to one or to display them directly? The file sent is the same - a jpg is a jpg. The difference is the number of character used to do it. End of lesson. For more, go to Google.com. I've got glue to do before it hits 100 outside. Then I'll see what I can I do on the postings. Cheers to all.
--




> I'd be happy to post some jpgs after I finish the trim glue-up
> tomorrow as long as you promise not to whine about yEnc. They would
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On 6/1/2012 6:12 AM, Joe <Joe@Joe'sPlace.com wrote:

You could not be more misguided on the issue. yEnc, and UseNet itself, is instead equivalent to your "horse and buggy" in the 21st century.
Years ago yEnc was cobbled together for those who were into "file sharing" when a binary UseNet newsgroup was one of the few ways to do so. Those who do most of file sharing in this day and age have moved on to "bit torrent", and most of those have never heard of UseNet, or yEnc.
IOW, it is an little used scheme in today's networked world of email and bit torrent clients, AAMOF it is even non-standard technology in that it does NOT even comply with the RFC 977/3977 for NNTP, and is, and always has been IME, error prone to boot.
If you're going to use it, expect most not to see your yEnc encoded content, not because you're somehow on the cutting edge, as you imply, but because you insist on using what is arguably a horse and buggy technology in the 21st century.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
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Yes, it damn well is.

Most programs can change the default including the Agent version that I use.

Then email that person privately. This is a group of people, all of them with different needs and wants. It's only common sense to make information available to the widest audience.
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