Dry it after using.
Dry it after using.
While camping? Come on...
;-)
...
Camping and worrying about a little rust don't seem to jibe, either... :)
Shoulda' not removed the protective layer, it'd kept it all covered!
I'm sure none of the high-temp enamel-repair paints are technically covered for food contact, but I'd think it highly unlikely would be any real issue once were fully cured and baked out a time or two.
OTOH, I really doubt there's a serious issue anyway for such occasional use unless it had a lead-soldered seam or somesuch (and even there I'd not expect the exposure to be significant owing simply to it not being an every day occurrence).
$0.02, imo, ymmv, etc, etc., etc., ... :)
But this is coffee I'm talking about. Sacred Nectar Of The Gods.
I've got a mason jar of cold brewed coffee concentrate in the fridge as we speak. Cold brewed concentrate is the only thing to use for Iced Coffee. Even the ice cubes are made from the concentrate.
It was somebody else's protective layer. I need to build up my own.
That's a thought. Don't tell SWMBO.
I wonder where I can get the matching blue with the white specks. Does Benjamin Moore sell Cowboy Coffee Pot Blue?
Of course, I'd have to baked it in the portable camp oven.
Every day, multiple times a day (when we're camping) ;-)
Disclaimer(s) noted.
If you see rust spots through the bottom I'd watch out. The porcelain, I know you said enamel, will break away is small pieces with the chance of cutting up your insides good. If it really is enamel, then I don't know.
I have an old gray and white speckled coffee pot comes with the rest of the set, not going camping any more.
Is that an offer? If so, what are the details of the deal?
It's similar to this, which I've always known to be enamel:
No, the rust isn't through the bottom. After further inspection this evening it appears that the base of the grounds basket has worn away the enamel on the inside bottom of the pot in some spots from use over the years.
It's called "vitrified enamel" The enamel is baked to a "glass" finish.
I'm going to add that the slotted screws that I could not break loose even after spraying with blaster, came loose with a long soak in the vinegar.
So that's really great also..
So go fix an old tool and enjoy it.
_Waiting for Columbus_ is still one of the best live albums, ever.
(Although, _Made in Japan_, _Strangers in the Night_ (UFO, not Sinatra), the _GRP All Star Big Band 10th Anniversary_ and _Road Scholars_ are excellent as well). Just recently, amazon recommended _Black Symphony_ and it has grown on me over several listening sessions).
found this to be true with just water too
but now since reading this i will try vinegar next time
vinegar also works well on plumbing fixtures with hardwater deposits
Sorry, I meant if the rust is through the porcelain/enamelware. You would know because there would definitely be an edge where you can catch your fingernail on it, or your skin would feel the edge.
Had a pan that did that, and OUCH, I felt it in my mouth a piece or two, very tiny. In my case I tossed the pan lest anyone at home would use it.
So if you use it, keep a watchful eye for future deterioration.
And Clare was right on the money.
at I might as well just toss the pot? The thought of making coffee in a rus ty pot takes
No "lip', just a few rough, rust colored spots right where the steel basket sits.
I found some some food-safe enamel paint, but it's temperature range only goes to 200°.
Specs emailed from their customer service department:
-20° F if surface is not flexible and up to 200° F.
Even though the ideal water temp for coffee is between 195° and 200? ?, that is very hard to control in a percolator. Theoretically, only the water under the basket base should reach the boiling point but of course, that's right where the paint would be. (not to mention the flame under the pot) Food safe or not, I don't want melted paint in my coffee.
You might want to google "torch enameling". The existing coating is melted-on glass and apparently you can melt on more glass with a propane torch. Whether it will bond to the metal and the existing glass I have no idea but the stuff to do it is cheap and if there's no local supplier you can get it on Amazon. I'd make sure I got all the rust off down to bare metal first.
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