If there is one or two fixtures to convert, buying new connectors isn't
costly, but if there is a room or more full and one doesn't want to add
the cost of non-shunted connectors, they can remove the rear cover and
snip off the connecting bridge. Time consuming? Perhaps, but could be
worth saving a for a tank of gas.
Depends on the lamps. I replaced a lot of 60 and 100 watt
incandescents with LEDs - (E26/E27 base) and have not had a single
failure yet (over a year).
I also replaced a string of 7 (120 volt) halogen mini-spots with LEDs.
They are out in the open - not in cans - and I've put at leadt 4 or 5
complete sets through in the last 3 yezrs or so.
I put about 150? 12 volt mini-spots in at the insurance office 3
years ago. I bought 400 of them, and I'm out of spares. Some of the
originals are still doing fine, and some have been replaced 5 or 6
times. The voltage is right, at about 12.2 volts. and the cans are
The incandescents in my house - very many of them, anyway, were still
the ones that were in the house when we bought it 33 years ago when we
replaced them with CFLs. 6 or so years ago, and I replaced CFLs time
and again untill I got the LEDs over the last 2 years. My luck with
the (earlier) CFLs was as bad as with the GU10 and MR16 LEDs.
The standard ED bulbs and led PARs have been fantastic.
I'm looking at the 40 inch Flourescent replacement leds to replace the
4 remaining 40 inch tubes in the house - the "direct replacement" ones
that do not require modification of the fixtures.
So there is little difference between cfl and led. Both have a short
life. The led's transformer goes b4 the bulb.
The problem is that the heat goes right to the transformers, put the
bulb into a socket where the socket is below the bulb, and the heat
These bulbs are not really that good for the price. They may save
energy short term, but I'll bet the cost in energy to produce them
probably out weighs any benefit.
My garage door opener won't take a cfl, it's too short a base on the cfl.
Notice that all the bulbs are really about 60watt equivs for led. I
always used 75 or 100.
It doesn't matter the company, I've had 3 different units burn out like
Not a terrible price but 100-watt is too bright for my house. Most of
the daily use fixtures we have are 2 or 3 bulb so 100-watt would give
me a severe headache.
The light in our kitchen that burnt out gets used approximately 5
hours per day. Was hoping this one would last longer but so far the
all ones we have all died in about a third of the stated lifespan.
Guess it is what you get for free.
Looks like a capacitor in the ballast electronics failed.
According to the box in your picture, the stated lifespan
is 12000 hours. That's 3 hours per day over 11 years.
I'm going to guess that, in the kitchen you probably had
the light on more than 3 hours per day.
LEDs are definately the way to go, tho, now that the
prices are getting reasonable. I've never liked the
twisties, and thanks to having stockpiled a several year
supply of incandescents a while back, I'll be able to
go right to LEDs, and skip the CFL stage.
With 11' ceilings I tossed my supply of Par40 incandescent bulbs which I
got for free, 20 or so. Our kitchen had 5 of these canned lights and
one was burning out every 4~6 weeks for the last year.
I switched to the LED's equal to 70 watt for about $60 for 6 lamps and 8
weeks later no climbing on a ladder.
I think pay off will be with in 3 years considering that I went from 325
watts to 70 watts.
Casper, we owe you a big thank you. Went and checked some bulbs we'd
gotten from our utility (a long way from Duke) and they were the same
ones! They now reside in the dead bulb bag :-).
I hope others are checking as well.
This was the second bulb I caught. First bulb didn't glow orange but
it did have a tiny melted brown spot about 2mm around the base of one
stem. I was glad we stopped what we were doing to look in the kitchen
and check the light as otherwise who knows what could have happened.
I'm glad if any info I provde helps anyone. :)
LEDs have a side benefit (or an outside benefit). They attract fewer
bugs. We had two lights, about 20' apart. One light had incandescent
bulbs while the other had LED bulbs. There was a distinct difference in
the number of bugs around the lights, with the LED fixture having
The only CFL bulbs I trust to give somewhere near their "estimated"
life are FEIT. I've had numerous other brands go "Phfft!" in one
unpleasant manner or another. Now I'm buying LED bulbs to replace the
incandescents and CFL's as they die. The "home centers" occasionally
have brand name (GE, Sylvania) LED bulbs for about $3 each - sometimes
even the dimmable versions. Three-way LED bulbs are still pricey but
cheaper and more reliable than the CFL's I've tried.
I have electronic timers in several rooms in the house that will not
work with CFLs due to the initial draw when they come on. Unfortunately,
there is also a minimum 40W draw to make the timers work so I can't use
LEDs without mixing them with conventional bulbs in a multi light circuit.
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