Right. I know people who use cut up beer cans to increase the size of
the heat sinks, as well. however, if these are put in an enclosed
fixture, the fins can't do their job and the bulb will overheat. The
bulbs are, in general, designed to replace incandescent bulbs of the
same "equivalent wattage". Using a higher "equivalent wattage" bulb
though still lower actual wattage bulb than the fixture is designed
for, may reduce the life of the bulb significantly. If you're doing
this for economics, you may have just shot your wallet in the
I bought one from Lowe's that only came on when it was dark. It died
after a month. I bought a LED bulb at radio shack and replaced the
one in the light. It has been working several years now. Never gets
warm. We use the rope type on the shelf that surrounds the breakfast
room to light the do-dads my wife keeps there. They go out a section
at a time after a couple of years. They are on a timer about 12/24
daily. My brother's LED flashlight LED changed to just a glow after a
year of occasional use. So the hype about them lasting a million
years is just that.
So many of you leave lights on whether you need them or not.
Someone here said they have a 40w t12 on for 24x7. Why would you need a
light on during daylight hours?
What the heck.. I only leave lights on when I need them.
I hope you guys reconsider, that we have enough things consuming juice.
All the transformers, TV's, we don't need to keep lights on for vanity
12/24 is a long time, I understand 5pm to 10pm, or manual on when
entertaining, but how many have daily visitors that need it past these
I'm glad the CFL and LED's can help lower our usage, but you guys are
more than making up.l
Happy New year. I'll stop preaching.
My under cabinet kitchen light is never turned off. Used to be a 15"
fluorescent, but now is LED. It not like it has been on forever, only
50 years that I've owned a home. It does brighten that part of the
counter even in daylight as it is sort of a dark corner. At night is
acts as a night light. Handy at 3AM when I want a drink of water. No
tripping in the hallway. It does give a little safety and security at
night. Bathroom has an LED nightlight and other bathroom has a
receptacle with a built in LED nightlight.
I also have a few plug in LED lights that are a night light and come on
bright during a power failure and can be used as a flashlight.
Entry door has a light over it from dusk to 10 PM. Other outdoor lights
are on motion detectors.
LEDs can be overdriven, and they will be brighter for a short time. If
kept within their current ratings, they'll last a very long time.
If you're using a bad power supply, it certainly isn't helping things.
We've got some LEDs down at the club that were killed because of a bad
power supply. The voltage sagged, the regulator in the supply couldn't
regulate, and LEDs started burning out. Once we took the load off the
supply and the regulator started working properly, LEDs stopped burning
I think you're talking about different things. I think he's talking
about C9 replacement LEDs in a C9 fixture. I too have LED nightlights
but ones with non-replaceable lamps. They're great (and come in many
colors), and like yours are cool to the touch. It doesn't take
anything like a watt to make a nice nightlight (I have clock faces
that are even too bright). A C9 (equivalent) seems like overkill to
Yes! (I build custom LED lights/fixtures).
LEDs are very sensitive to heat and much is done to draw the heat away
from the LED. The bigger problem is the LED driver (power supply) They
suffer from the same issues that plague CFLs, usually the large
electrolytic capacitor is the first to go due to heat. Ideally, LED
lights (thinking recessed ceiling lights here) would have the power
supply remotely mounted and low voltage distributed to the lights in a
In my mind, the big "thing" LEDs offer is better fixtures. You can fit
an LED into a very low profile fixture (good by can fixtures). Under
cabinet lighting will be (is) a big winner.
On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 8:47:34 AM UTC-8, Brewster wrote:
Yep, that's how it works; if you want to screw-in a light bulb replacement,
with power/heatsink/LED, it'll only be a dim bulb. For any power higher
than '60W equivalent' (actually about 5-10W), a good LED replacement
for an incandescent will require an entire redesigned fixture.
Strip lighting (lotsa LEDs spread out, low watts/square inch) it self-cools
I have a well-made 16W LED fixture; the LED plus heatsink weighs 800 grams
(a little under 2 lbs). The LED weighs about 2 grams. The
LED/heatsink won't fit any lamp made for screw-in incandescent bulbs.
The old incandescent bulbs were hard to kill. That is if
you ran 130V bulbs on 120V systems. In reverse (common) the
bulbs burn out faster due to more current and hotter wire...
LED's are outdoor rated and normally have a large heat sink
attached to the back near the screw end.
Any semiconductor will fail if super hot as will an incandescent
in high hot. But you and I can't stand those and they don't
occur around the house or shop either.
On 12/31/2015 7:10 PM, Bill wrote:
On Fri, 1 Jan 2016 21:26:46 -0600, Martin Eastburn
We've had bad luck with incandescents at the church/ Standard 100 watt
incandescents in cans. I've replaced 40 in 2 years. No idea what brand
they were but I've been replacing with Philips. (all new install 2
years ago - on dimmers, used about 6 hours a week max.
Seems I have to replace almost 1 a week lately.
We will be switching to dimmable LED bulbs and see what happens.
On 1/2/2016 12:30 AM, email@example.com wrote:
I had bought a bunch of incandescent b4 the big purge. They are crap
compared to the older ones. The 3 ways went in a week to 2 months. We
had tried the CFL 3 way and did not like them. hardly a diff in light.
So I bought a bunch of incans. What a big disappointment.
I'm confused. Just a few minutes ago I thought you were admonishing us
for leaving lights on when not needed. Now you tell us you stocked up
on inefficient bulbs because you did not like the newer ones.
You aren't one of those hippo crits I hear about are you?
You must be spying on my growing waist line... :-)
Yea it was hard to read by the 3 way CFL's , so he wife wanted regular
bulbs. low for TV at night but high for reading.
The new incans didn't last long, they were junk. All Sylvania POCs.
There was no choice. The 3 way cfls were not usable for reading.
The LED's were about $75 a piece back then. My niece and her husband
bought a bunch for their kitchen.. not me, not at that price.
At $75 I'd not buy one either. I got away from the 3 way a long time
ago because of the short life. Finally found a solution with new lamps
that take two bulbs with individual switches. In the family room the
lams have a 40W equiv and a 60W equiv. For watching TV the lower power
is plenty. For reading we use both.
In the bedroom we have a 25 and 40'w equiv. Works well for us.
Short life and long cost. We have table lamps in the family room
(where the TV is) with two bulbs and two switches each. All have 60W
incandescent bulbs, though. We watch TV in the dark. The TV provides
enough light to get a drink.
I changed the switch in the fan from a SPST switch to a
off-low-med-high fan switch and wired the lights so I get zero, one,
three, or four lights on. It's almost always left on one.
Watching TV in the dark is hard on the eyes so we always leave a dim
light on. Some people take it even further with special lighting.
We only use the ceiling (fan) light when cleaning or when bright light
is needed. Overhead light is harsh, IMO. The lamps on the end tables is
much more diffused. At work, only for the darkest month do I have any
light on in my office. Two windows on the north side is plenty.
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