Really? Odd. I have used night light LEDs for several years and they never get hot. I can turn one off and pull the light out of the outlet being barely warm to the touch. What brand are you using?
So would moving. ;-)
I pay $.07 and have electric heat (heat pump). Incandescents still work well. ;-)
I bought one from Lowe's that only came on when it was dark. It died after a month. I bought a LED bulb at radio shack and replaced the one in the light. It has been working several years now. Never gets warm. We use the rope type on the shelf that surrounds the breakfast room to light the do-dads my wife keeps there. They go out a section at a time after a couple of years. They are on a timer about 12/24 daily. My brother's LED flashlight LED changed to just a glow after a year of occasional use. So the hype about them lasting a million years is just that.
I think you're talking about different things. I think he's talking about C9 replacement LEDs in a C9 fixture. I too have LED nightlights but ones with non-replaceable lamps. They're great (and come in many colors), and like yours are cool to the touch. It doesn't take anything like a watt to make a nice nightlight (I have clock faces that are even too bright). A C9 (equivalent) seems like overkill to me.
So many of you leave lights on whether you need them or not. Someone here said they have a 40w t12 on for 24x7. Why would you need a light on during daylight hours?
What the heck.. I only leave lights on when I need them. I hope you guys reconsider, that we have enough things consuming juice. All the transformers, TV's, we don't need to keep lights on for vanity reasons.
12/24 is a long time, I understand 5pm to 10pm, or manual on when entertaining, but how many have daily visitors that need it past these normal hours?I'm glad the CFL and LED's can help lower our usage, but you guys are more than making up.l
Happy New year. I'll stop preaching.
I have a hard time understanding your third sentence. This is AC alternating current. It is the same regardless to a bulb. it alternates back and forth.
MORE CURRENT? It's the same regardless. it alternates back and forth. It has nothing to do with more current, not for a bulb. The incandescent bulb does not know hot from cold.
I had bought a bunch of incandescent b4 the big purge. They are crap compared to the older ones. The 3 ways went in a week to 2 months. We had tried the CFL 3 way and did not like them. hardly a diff in light. So I bought a bunch of incans. What a big disappointment.
I guess you're referring to my post but a 2' T12 is 20w and the LED that replaced it is 10w.
To see?
I agree 100%.
Have no idea what "daily visitors" has to do with it either.
My last electric bill for service period Nov 19 thru Dec 22 is $23.03 Total kWh used: 327
How much is yours? (just curious)
Back at cha!
My under cabinet kitchen light is never turned off. Used to be a 15" fluorescent, but now is LED. It not like it has been on forever, only
50 years that I've owned a home. It does brighten that part of the counter even in daylight as it is sort of a dark corner. At night is acts as a night light. Handy at 3AM when I want a drink of water. No tripping in the hallway. It does give a little safety and security at night. Bathroom has an LED nightlight and other bathroom has a receptacle with a built in LED nightlight.I also have a few plug in LED lights that are a night light and come on bright during a power failure and can be used as a flashlight.
Entry door has a light over it from dusk to 10 PM. Other outdoor lights are on motion detectors.
I've used 1000bulbs.com several times in the past. They want $3 up (way up). I suspect anything less than that is a loss leader (not that loss leaders are a bad thing).
Myself. Delivered but yet to install PLT-10014 2,200 Lumens - LED - F32T8 Replacement - 4 ft. Tube - 19 Watt - 5000K - Use With Instant Start Ballast - LifeBulb LBT8F2250 @ 13.99/ea. plus tax and shipping. And, have on order a dozen PAR30 - 15 Watt - Long Neck - 75W Equal - 2228 Candlepower -
40 Deg. Flood - 5000 K - Stark White - Euri Lighting EP30-1050ew @ $11.99 each for several ceiling can replacements. I'm tired of the yellowish hue and I would like not to climb up that 12 foot step ladder to reach that 16 foot ceiling for as long as I'm still living in this house. No steal to be sure but it's almost impossible to find anything but the soft/warm white at the big box stores.dave in SoTex
I'm confused. Just a few minutes ago I thought you were admonishing us for leaving lights on when not needed. Now you tell us you stocked up on inefficient bulbs because you did not like the newer ones. You aren't one of those hippo crits I hear about are you?
"G. Ross" wrote in news:c7ydndgxlMz9bBrLnZ2dnUU7- snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
LEDs can be overdriven, and they will be brighter for a short time. If kept within their current ratings, they'll last a very long time.
If you're using a bad power supply, it certainly isn't helping things. We've got some LEDs down at the club that were killed because of a bad power supply. The voltage sagged, the regulator in the supply couldn't regulate, and LEDs started burning out. Once we took the load off the supply and the regulator started working properly, LEDs stopped burning out.
Puckdropper
He;s saying using 120 volt bulbs in 130 volt circuits causes bulbs to burn out faster - and he is right.- because higher voltage causes higher current and more heat (watts)
??? Incandescent bulbs are almost purely resistive loads. I=E/R. Increase E you increase I in direct proportion. More current means more heat.
You must be spying on my growing waist line... :-)
Yea it was hard to read by the 3 way CFL's , so he wife wanted regular bulbs. low for TV at night but high for reading. The new incans didn't last long, they were junk. All Sylvania POCs.
There was no choice. The 3 way cfls were not usable for reading. The LED's were about $75 a piece back then. My niece and her husband bought a bunch for their kitchen.. not me, not at that price.
Geez I missed that. Thanks for the clarifcation Clare.
They're resistive in the sense that they aren't reactive (capacitive or inductive) but incandescent bulb filaments have a very high temperature coefficient. The higher the voltage, the higher the resistance. In fact, over a fairly wide range of voltage, incandescent lamps make pretty decent constant current sources) and are often used as such). Yes, the bulb certainly does "know" hot from cold. That's why the resistance changes over temperature (power).
At $75 I'd not buy one either. I got away from the 3 way a long time ago because of the short life. Finally found a solution with new lamps that take two bulbs with individual switches. In the family room the lams have a 40W equiv and a 60W equiv. For watching TV the lower power is plenty. For reading we use both.
In the bedroom we have a 25 and 40'w equiv. Works well for us.
I've had more luck with dimmables than 3 ways. Use a dimmable 60 equivalent (or two) for brightness - knock them back when you don't need as much light.
The proper description is "non-linear", as the resistance does not change in step with the voltage. Increasing voltage still causes increased power consumption - and the greatest non-linearity is at the "cold" end of the spectrum. When dead cold they are pretty close to a short, and the resistance increases quickly as the fillament starts to "glow" The resistance change from the "emitting" point on up is relatively insignificant in comparison
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