Most important adjustment:

Page 1 of 3  
Hello wood pro's what in your opinion is the most important adjustment or critical requirement to making a straight accurate rip cut on the table saw?I do have difficulty in this area one end of a panel may be off as much as a 1/16"-3/32" . The saw is a Ridged contractor's with folding stand 10".
Sal
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/11/2012 9:11 AM, sal wrote:

Starting with straight wood.
Using a blade that does not flex, that means no thin kerf blades.
Insuring that you fence is "perfectly" parallel to your blade.
Practice
Practice
Practice
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/11/2012 10:15 AM, Leon wrote:

I don't think he is using a contractor saw, I think a benchtop, portable saw... which means that it will be using a thin kerf.. since it will have a universal motor.
I bent my Freud Diablo miter saw blade again. Damn thin kerf... I was making a wheel truing stand for my sons bike, and was cutting a piece of wood 5/16 by 3/4 and 2 feet long. The piece that cut off kicked back when the blade hadn't cut all the way through. I came down again and it kicked, bending the blade. I am borrowing a crappy sliding miter saw from a friend since I destroyed mine (dropped down the stairs). The thin kerf is certainly delicate. But I don't see a miter blade that is not thin kerf. Even Forrest's blades are thin for the Miter saw.
The plate is now .004 out on the Freud, very noticeable cut change.. scoring of the side.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

One straight edge to run against the fence is essential ...

Nonsense ... thin kerf blades are perfectly acceptable ... especially on an under powered saw.

More nonsense ... there is NO such thing as "Perfect Alignment" ... bring it into decent alignment by whatever means you have available ... then ... make a series of cuts, adjusting the fence as needed to ensure no scoring marks on your workpiece. Many times, this will mean tilting the fence very slightly away from the blade at the rear ... REMEMBER ... VERY SLIGHTLY !!!

--
"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry
capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/12/2012 6:22 PM, "<<<__ Bøb __>>>" wrote:

Not nonsense, you may have OK results with think kerf but thin kerf is not going to give good results in all situations.

Don't have much experience Bob? Your comments are for dealing with improper procedure to begin with. Perfectly parallel is required if you are feeding correctly. With longer rip cuts not parallel and or tipped away from from the blade at the rear ends up with the waste side being pulled into the opposite side of the blade at the rear. SIMPLE geometry.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Still nonsense ... thin kerf is designed for underpowered saws and/or material where excess loss from standard kerf is undesirable.

Plenty of experience ... better than 55 years worth ...that's why my comment(s). "Perfectly Parallel" is not possible, even with exceptional indicators, etc. Since you will ALWAYS have some error, it is best to let it work in your favor by opening it up a bit at the rear such that the teeth rising from under the table do not rub on the freshly cut surface. The length of the cut has very little, if anything to do with the alignment procedure ... yes, you will possibly get some scuffing on the waste side of the material ... ISN'T THAT WHERE YOU WOULD WANT IT TO OCCUR ??? A light pass over the jointer will fix that in a second, or, don't you have the experience to do so ???
Care to show/tell us all EXACTLY HOW you attain perfect parallelism between your blade & fence ??? Maybe all of the experts I've read and watched have it all wrong ... I'd love to see your alignment procedure along with the results of it.
--
"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry
capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/13/2012 10:54 AM, "<<<__ Bøb __>>>" wrote:

Precisely, but I can assure you that a 1 hp underpowered saw will cut just as well with a quality regular kerf blade as with a thin kerf. Add to that a regular kerf blade is going to more consistently deliver better flatter cuts. Thin kerf blades are not known for delivering as accurate and or the same quality of cut as as a regular kerf blade. Until a thin kerf blade is made that does not flex the results will not be as consistent as those with a regular kerf blade.

Ok I see you are some what AR and take every thing literally. What I should have said is that you ABSOLUTELY want your fence to be as close to parallel to the blade as humanly possible. Happy?
Since you will ALWAYS have some error, it is best to

No, go for a close to parallel as possible. Because "you" cant get close does not mean that you should be happy with .005+ put at the back.
The length of the cut has very little, if anything to do with

Absolutely not if it can be helped. Why make put up with a "scuffed" edge on the waste side which most often will be used again if you don't have top.
And the length is extremely important with having proper alignment. The further past the blade a board travels the more it will want to pull away from the fence and rub against the splitter or blade especially when the fence is tipped out away from the blade. This is not how they demo the procedure at the WW shows when they advise tipping the fence out.
A light pass over the jointer will fix that in a second, or,

Extra steps. My experience is to do it right in the first place and not have to take the extra step.

OK Bob you just gave yourself away, you are reading about what all of the "experts say". I deal with this day in and day out. Simply put tipping your fence out a few thousands at the back of the blade is simply a compensation to make up for another problem.
Years ago I used thin kerf blades, years ago I tipped my fence out at the back. I learned to set the saw up correctly and to buy better blades. I have been there and done that.
And besides regurgitating something you have read to be contrary to actual extensive experience what have you contributed to help the OP solve his problem?
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Nonsense once again ... a 1 HP saw, in many cases won't even pull a standard blade through any hard or thick stock without bogging down.

Yet MORE nonsense !!!
Thin kerf blades are not known for delivering as

Catch up with the times buddy ... there are now "EXTRA-THIN" kerf blades that will do anything a standard blade will do ...

If I didn't take your words literally, you would then, I am sure, accuse me of taking your writings out of context ... I'd rather be guilty as charged of assuming you know what you said, and meant it as stated.

Well ... if YOU can get it PERFECT ... why not enlighten the rest of us how you did it ???

Life is just full of compromises ... this is just one of them ... AGAIN ... if you have a method of obtaining the mythical PERFECTION you claim ... why not enlighten the rest of us ???

PLEASE ... PLEASE show us !!! !!!

Still waiting ... ...

I read all I can ... then experiment with that information, striving for the perfection that neither you or I can attain ... how & where I get my ideas is of no consequence.

Once again ... I would challenge you to reveal your procedure in a step-by-step manner ... or, does that idea intimidate you just a bit ??

I have BOTH experience AND reading comprehension skills ... STILL WAITING for you to give us the details of your magic perfection alignment procedure.

--
"The danger to America is not Barack Obama but a citizenry
capable of entrusting a man like him with the Presidency.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/13/2012 12:22 PM, "<<<__ Bøb __>>>" wrote:

You have now proven all the above to be highly suspect, lets see some examples of this 55 years of woodworking experience.
IOW, put up, or STFU ...
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/13/12 12:48 PM, Swingman wrote:

I agree. And I though *I* was an ass. :-)
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

As strident as he is in his writings, I'm wondering if it's not a brand new Wreck Troll that Leon has on the line now. Keep your gaff and net handy; Leon might need some help landing that one.

Don't hold back now, Swingy. <g>
-- The business of America is not business. Neither is it war. The business of America is justice and securing the blessings of liberty. -- George F. Will
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/13/2012 1:19 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:

I could be wrong here Larry but I think a troll usually does the fishing/trolling. I think I may have swallowed the hook.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Right you are. I endoed on that one.
-- The business of America is not business. Neither is it war. The business of America is justice and securing the blessings of liberty. -- George F. Will
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/13/2012 12:22 PM, "<<<__ Bøb __>>>" wrote:

Ok Bob you obviously don't have the experience and I am not going to try to change your mind.
>Once again ... I would challenge you to reveal your procedure in a ?step-by-step manner ... or, does that idea intimidate you just a bit ??
If you Google my posts you will find that I have mentioned the steps time and a gain.
I don't do video so next best thing, lets compare results.
Seriously, I have been pretty busy and I would not be putting up with equipment that is not set up to yield the best possible results.
If you are truly interested in setting up your saw and getting the best possible results, go to a pro that makes a living with his tools and ask how he sets his equipment up and see if it comes close to how the "experts" do it.
I will put my money where my moth is.
This is what I have done in the past 20 or so months.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/sets/72157630857421932 /
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

this was just too good to pass up. So I will just run with it...
1. "My moth"??? Is it a pet? How big is it? Did you build a special house for him? I can just see it now. Half swingman's chicken coop and half Leon's monster bed. With 657 dominos.
2. Moths eat clothes. Not a good place to put your money. I am sure they would find US currency tasty as well. Surely you can find a better place to put your money.
3. How long have you kept moths as pets? Have you heard of dogs? Bigger, more trouble, but friendly and sociable.
4. It must be difficult lighting the room the moth is in. They love lights and eventually dry up on the light. So what do you use? Fluorescents? LED's? Skylights? Etc.?
5. What do you feed the little critters? Purina Moth Chow?
6. Does your odd choice in pets cause any problems with the missus. The love of my life would kill it on sight. And probably damage something in the process. She gets totally primal about moths, spiders, etc. Your honey must be very mellow.
7. Do your moths receive regular veterinarian care. Or do you just let them die when they get sick?
8. Do you breed moths? Going for a multicolored line? Is there any money in moth breeding, sales etc?
9. Is it an expensive hobby? Does it cost much to get into moth husbandry?
10. Are you a prolific contributor to the various moth forums and boards? What kind of people hang out in those places? Are there many trolls or flame wars among moth enthusiasts?
Just feeling a bit silly today. :)
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/13/2012 3:09 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:

Yes my moth. LOL
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Some nice work there. And, if most of that construction was for your own use, then you must have a sh*tload of spare cash laying around to afford all that wood.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/14/12 6:31 AM, Dave wrote:

As opposed to the sh*tload of spare cash laying around to afford all that furniture had he bought it from a store?
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/14/2012 9:56 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

LOL, probably cheaper than the store!
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 8/14/12 1:36 PM, Leon wrote:

Cheaper and way better than that Chinese termite vomit.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.