Grizzly G0555 Questions

I just received the Grizzly G0555 a week before Christmas and I have been fairly happy so far, but I have two questions for anyone that can help.
The first question is with the fence. It does not ride smoothly. Sometimes I need to use both hands to wiggle the fence over when adjusting it. I called Grizzly, and they said that it is normally a little tight, but what I was having sounded like a burr or something that didn't get filed off at the factory. All I found were two screw holes that had a little rough edge. I used a file to smooth them and it seemed to help, but just yesterday I noticed that it was starting to get worse. I did notice a groove being worn into the aluminum bar that attaches to the table. I'm going to call them again today, but wanted to know if anyone else has a similar problem, or if your fence slides smoothly.
The second question is with the cut produced. I have never owned or used a bandsaw before so I don't know what quality of cut it should produce. When I make a cut, I get a consistant wave That is about 1/10 of an inch high about every 1/3 of an inch. This is a normal feed rate, nothing slow or fast. It does change with the feed rate, so I'm wondering if it's the blade or something with the machine. I am still using the blade that came with the saw.
Thanks for the help and suggestions.
Mike Arvay snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
For the benefit of others, what exactly is a Grizzly G0555 ???????
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
There is a little plastic thing that you screw into the bottom of the fence, it's the only bit left over when you've finished building it and the manual doesn't mention it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I did notice that knob that was left over, and I did screw it into the bottom of the fence. It shows it in the exploded view, but like you said the manual has no mention of it in the assembly.
But now, thinking about it, it may be screwed in too far, causing the fence to dig into the bar. I'll try to adjust it and see if it helps out.
Thanks.
Oh, and Yes the G0555 is the Grizzly Ultimate 14" Bandsaw.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I'm finding more and more manuals that are poorly written, perhaps a translation from Chinese or other. An exploded view would be nice, and understood by all. Poorly written manuals are much more common than 20 years ago.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
It's a bandsaw.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I posted about this a week or so back. I think it's because you haven't adjusted the fence (or blade) to account for blade drift. If you cut freehand my guess is that the banding will disappear. Draw a straight line on some scrap and follow that line without the fence. The angle you need to feed the stock into the blade to follow that line is your drift angle, you can either tweak your fence to match that angle, or adjust the tracking (knob on upper wheel) of the blade so that it cuts straight. Fine Woodworking recommends the latter method in last months bandsaw tuning guide.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I agree with first tracking the blade to the center of the wheel. There should be minimal drift if this is done in conjuction with proper tensioning. Then, I would go with the first suggestion made here.
Don

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Drift isn't from mis-tracking, its from mis-set teeth on the blade. That's why the drift angle is different on each blade, and why better blades seem to have less drift.
The guide blocks/bearings will straighten out the blade even if you are mistracking it.
Chris
--
Chris Richmond | I don't speak for Intel & vise versa

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Sorry, can't go along with that. While I agree that set is a factor, improper tensioning along with poor tracking causes far more tension on one side of the blade only inviting the other to "wobble".
Don
message

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

GET ANOTHER BLADE! The blade that came with mine had a tremendous amount of "lead". Switched to a different blade, cuts just dandy(still some roughness to the cut, but you're not using a cabinet saw and WWII blade). FWIW, when I assembled mine, I put the fence rail in the wrong holes(bottom ones) and couldn't even get the fence on. Only complaint now is that the locking lever for the fence needs a little grease on the camming surface so it will engage easier.
--
Nahmie
Those on the cutting edge bleed a lot.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I was getting awful cuts until I adjusted the (original) blade to remove any lead. The method in last months Fine Woodworking works great. Set the fence parallel to the mitre slot and then adjust the lead of the blade by adjusting where the blade rides on the wheel via the centering knob. Works like a charm.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Ultimate or penultimate sumthing or another... http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=g0555&
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Regarding bandsaw blade: I will be fair and balance (FOX's fair and balance), some folks here will recommend Timberwolf blades sold by Suffolk: http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.aspsold
or from Lee Valley under the name "Viking", I believe they are the same. http://www.leevalley.com/home/main.asp
Folks here will swear Timberwolf is the BEST. Respectfully I disagree, not only it is a terrible blade it is over price. Suffolk, replaced one blade and ask me not to throw it away as they may want back. I am still waiting for them to call me for their precious blade. The other two blades sitting on the shelve corroding and gathering sawdust.
I believe you should try Olson or Olsen "AllPro", I have not try them yet. Fine Woodworking rate them highly and they cost about the same as Timberwolf. I will be buy a few to try before spring.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Wax the parts that meet. I've done that on my G0555 and table saw fence. Works well on both.
Dave

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Nothing like that here. It slides smoothly as long as the fence locking lever is released. A bit of wax helps. Certainly there are no grooves being worn into the fence travel bar.

Yep, it's probably something with the blade ... likely a bad weld or a kink. The fact that the ridge spacing changes with the feed rate is a good indicator. The factory blades that come with that saw are not very good -- most any other blade you get (Timberwolf, Olson, etc etc) will be an upgrade.
You may also be hearing a kind of click or thunk when the blade's turning, as that spot on the blade hits the guide bearings. I bet if you slowly turn the upper wheel (unplugged, of course), you'll hear the click as the blade defect moves through the guide bearings.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.