My problem is how to fix a brass nut inside the turned wooden piece that (I can only call it a button) will go on the cap of a pepper grinder (and the matching salt grinder). I've made a nut-shaped hole. I just want to fix it neatly so it stays there. I'm thinking epoxy but would value opinions.
Regular epoxy does not adhere to metal very well, if at all. Not only does epoxy not stick to metal but it is brittle and can crack. However, there is a special epoxy formulated especially for adhering to metal. It is called "J. B. Weld". I have used this special epoxy to secure nuts to wood, fiberglass, and other non-metals. It works very well, it doesn't crack, and it can be ground and treated like metal, more or less. It can be found at Home Depot or other such stores.
It helps to rough up the nut a bit with sandpaper before securing it in place with the "J. B. Weld". I think this will work for you very neatly.
Epoxy by itself in this application is essentially useless since it won't bond to the brass very well.
Having said that, epoxy is also the answer; however, you need to add some micro-balloons to the epoxy to make a "mud" the consistency of say mayonnaise.
Counterbore a hole in the wood to accept the nut and coat the c'bore with epoxy allowing it to cure overnight.
Next day, fill the c'bore with thickened epoxy and suck nut into it with a threaded screw.
Allow to cure.
The hinges of hell will rust shut before that nut comes loose.
A WORD OF CAUTION:
Coat the screw threads with some candle wax if you ever expect to remove it.
DAMHIKT ! ! ! .
Good luck.
BTW, forget the 5 minute epoxy.
IMHO, it is strictly garbage except for a temporary repair purposes.
Epoxy works just fine on metal. Make sure the metal is grease free and rough it up a little. I often saw grooves across the corners to add a bit more bite. Don't use the 5 minute stuff - it can be brittle. Use a
Devcon Plastic weld adheres to most metals as well as epoxy & is considerably stronger according to the manufacturer.
I'd not rely on the adherence of the adhesive to the brass; rather, I'd be sure to score the brass so the cement is geometrically keyed into it by sanding, filing grooves, etc. Then the breaking strength will be determined by the cement's strength, not how well the cement adheres to the material.
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