Garage ceiling ideas? (drywall, plywood, etc?)

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Isn't foam considered a fire hazzard? I think most places require it to be cover with a non combustable material. Maybe this would pass for an out building?
Just my usual 2 cents.
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Speaking of insulation - I wonder why no one has suggested sound insulating ceiling covering. I'd have thought that, given the noise that can be generated in a shop, having something absorbe the noise would be useful.
'Course the dust would collect in most sound tile I've seen...
Mike
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Thanks for the replies. I will probably just go with drywall. I have 24" centers, so I would need to use 5/8" drywall to prevent sag?
What do you think of priming and painting the drywall before I put it up? I'd have to go over it again and paint the seams, and over the screw holes, but I think it would be a lot easier than trying to prime and paint 816 sq feet of ceiling that's 10.5 feet above my head.
I don't suppose paneling will work? That thin stuff that finds itself on a lot of basement walls. It would probably sag?
Thanks, -Ryan
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You could install strapping to help ease the sagging...
If you plan on using kraft backed fiberglass batts, you should consider installing the insulation *before* you hang the drywall. As for painting first, it's probably not a good idea. You'll need a good bond for the mud and you will not know how far you'll need to feather the joints until it's installed. Also, the paint will probably get marred during install but the lift or some other thing.
Good luck, Myx

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On 22 Sep 2003 06:15:53 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Ryan) wrote:

Perhaps not. When I had my drywall hung earlier this year, due to my own ignorance, I had set all my ceiling electrical boxes at 1/2 inch. The contractor said, OK, he'd just use 1/2 inch "ceiling-type" drywall.
The material he installed IS marked "Ceiling"--must be somewhat stiffer. No sag yet, but time will tell.
Like you, my ceiling trusses are on 24" centers (upstairs, but 16" joists downstairs--this is a detached workshop))

Yikes! I'm currently taping and finishing the drywall myself--a first time experience for me, so my mudding is kinda messy. No way would I have painted beforehand!
I'll just unscrew the mesh sander from its telescoping handle and screw on the paint roller. Rolling paint overhead has GOT to be easier than sanding overhead!
Oops--just looked back and noticed you said 10.5' above your HEAD. Guess that's pretty high up.

I would think it would.
--John W. Wells
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Paint it afterwards. Get an extended handle for a paint roller, put the paint tray on the floor and go to it. It is not that bad of a job. Greg
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The fact the Drywall isn't flammable has to be a concern.
I finished my basement myself and used drywall on the ceiling. All I used were 8 Eye Bolts and 2 pieces of 2 x 4.
Cut 2 lenghts of 2 x 4's just longer the 4' so you can screw an eye bolt in either and fit the drywall in between, like so:
0 0 | | --------------------------- ---------------------------
Screw the other 4 eye bolts into the rafters where you want to place the drywall. I then used 4 nylon strap (the kind with the rachet tightener) to hoist the drywall into place. Use another 2 x 4 to press it hard against the ceiling.
When I say I did the ceiling myself, I mean I didn't have anyone else in the room.
Chuck
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If I did go with plywood on the ceiling, how thin could it be without sagging? How about OSB?
I'm leaning more away from drywall, untaped/mudded it would look very ugly, I think?... but mudding/taping/sanding then painting that much area sounds like more work than I want to do. I would like to get cheap, thin plywood, paint it, then put it up with white screws. I could live with the seams.
I will also look at other wall materials, I saw some mentioned in this thread but I have no idea what those things are. The only building store here is a Menards, and they don't have a lot of selection. The new Lowes is supposed to open in November.
Someone mentioned that they just but up foam insulation board. Will consider that too...
Thanks for all the responses.
-Ryan
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Ryan wrote:

Something to think about is that sheets of drywall are cheap. Plywood is not usually so inexensive. Perhaps you should contact a drywall crew and compare their per foot price to that of installing plywood yourself.
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why not avoid all the hassles and do it with foam board ...mjh
-- mike hide

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I did my garage ceiling using tongue in groove porch flooring. I then stained it. It looks absolutely fantastic.
Tom

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Because some people want a more finished look. Greg
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On 22 Sep 2003 15:43:49 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Ryan) wrote: agging? How about OSB?

I'm all for having a job look good but if this was _my_ workshop, I'd remind myself that it is my _workshop._ The point of the drywall is light reflection, sound dampening and a cheap means to hold up insulation. I'd prepaint the drywall a nice bright white, insulate between the rafters and screw the drywall up to the ceiling. Done. No tape, no mud, no sanding. Time to work wood.
By the time you're done hanging lights, jigs, bar clamps, and that gloat cache of unobtainium wood you were lucky enough to find and need to dry, you'll never see the seems anyway. ;>
My 2 cents, and worth every penny, Michael Baglio
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How about 1/4 inch hardboard? Cheap stuff, and feels pretty sturdy.
-Ryan
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