Our 2-car attached garage (my woodworking shop) of our 20-year old home
must not have any insulation above. Either that or the taping job on
the drywall joints must be substandard. Perhaps both.
"Stuff" in now falling on my tools.
The ceiling is trowel textured so it's about 1/8"+ thick everywhere.
Whereever there's a joint, and I mean every(!) ceiling joint in the
garage, the taping has detached from the drywall. By grabbing loose
ends of the paper taping, I can peel it off. The texturing that was
applied directly to the drywall stays put. So, by peeling the loose
stuff off, I end up with ~3" wide strips running in both directions
across the ceiling. It's kind of weird looking, because the texturing
creates some relief and the peeled "runways" are flat and sunken.
How should I repair this problem before repainting the ceiling? Must I
retape? I've never done any taping before. Can I just fill the runways
with joint compound? Either way, I know I won't succeed in getting a
seemless blend into the existing texturing. Does taping have a purpose
in addressing expansion, inferring that I should try to retape it?
Thanks for all advice.
Please reply to newsgroup because spammers are killing me.
Probably adhesive backed paper tape with inadequate mudding, moisture
and freeze-thaw has finally killed the glue. Paper tape very often
comes loose in unheated buildings.
I would suggest first checking to ensure that attic venting etc. are
working properly, and that the drywall isn't deteriorating.
Assuming attic reasonably good (it probably is), use adhesive fiberglass
mesh tape, and put at least one layer of mud over it. The mud will
penetrate thru the tape and anchor it far better than the adhesive alone.
If you don't tape it at all, it'll crack.
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
<< must not have any insulation above. >>
Install some if absent. A comfortable shop will be more useful.
<< Must I retape? >>
Seems necessary to me. I'd use fiberglass tape and a setting type joint
compound since the earler joint failure might have been related to a high
<< Does taping have a purpose in addressing expansion, inferring that I should
try to retape it? >>
It will help prevent the surface cracks that develop in unreinforced joint
compound. Do some reading in any DIY text for more insights on the mysteries of
drywall. This NG has dozens of experts, some of whom have applied hundreds of
acres of drywall so you likely get some better posts than this one Good luck.
I use it a lot and have had no problems with it.
To answer the original question, yes, you need to tape the joints. If you
just use joint compound, and even the "tapeless" joint compound, you will
get cracks. I would guess that the original application did not have any
compound under the tape or it was not embedded properly. You should NOT be
able to just peal the tape off. Go to the library and get a book on
drywalling or buy a book from your hardware store before you try this
project. There are lots of tricks and tips on how to do drywalling
properly. Setting type mud holds up better, IMHO, but is more complicated
to work with. If you decide to use this type, get the longest setting time
to give you plenty of time to work with the mud.
Remove .spamnot to respond by email
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.